Rear Brake Lines - Exact Fitting Rear to Cylinders

[MikeB]

After tips for the rear brake flexi's, I bought the exact from silvian which are really nice quality.
The rears have the 45 deg bend on the fixed part and I thought were meant to fit straight into the wheel cylinder (drum brake set up), when I tried mine it fowled the top part of the rear upright.

Has anyone got any pictures of there's clearing the upright, I can only think I have assembly hub assembly wrong. I have rear upright then the back plate that holds the cylinder then the hub assembly bearing block.

[Talonmotorsport]

Are your uprights set horizontal or are they set at 30'? I remember seeing a part in AdrianH's build thread about making a solid (copper pipe) section in an S shape that was secured to the upright then a rubber flexi to get around this problem.

[Tatey]

I will take some pictures later on of my setup, it is a tight fit but it does go, I have drums and Sylvain's brake lines.

[MikeB]

Thank tatey,
Sylvain thinks that as all uprights will be built slight different some may foul by a couple mm needing the upright to tweeked to fit.

Could you also let me know if you have the handbrake cable coming in from the front end of the back plate (how I think its meath to be) or from the rear.

Also is their and adjust nut on your drums (i didn't take mine apart) and I can't find one.

[Tatey]

Mike,

The handbrake cable goes in from the back of the car forward as shown below, the handbrake shoes are self adjusting, there is a cam mechanism at the top of the drum setup than when you pull on the handbrake it will automatically adjust the shoes.

The rear brake lines are tight against the uprights, but mine can be moved slightly, however they are just touching. One method I used for installing them was to loosen the bearing hub from the rear upright slightly so that you get around an extra 10mm of clearance and then you can fit the handbrake cable and rear brake line with ease and then you can tighten them up again, however you need to watch to make sure you dont damage anything when you tighten them up if there isnt enough clearance. I have known people to have to slightly modify their rear uprights to allow enough space for the handbrake cable to fit

[twinturbo]

Surely a notch in the upright is the simple easy solution, it won't significantly affect the strength of the upright and make clearance issues "Non issues"

TT

[voucht]

Hello everybody,
I just slip into this thread to give a few explanations about that, as it is concerning the brake lines I supply.
I know this 45° is actually a bit tight, but as TT says, a small notch in the upright RU2 is easily doable and will not affect its strength. I think it might be a good idea to live 1mm clearance between the stainless steel tube of the 45° fitting and RU2 plate. Stainless steel should be harder than the upright steel, and I guess it will not get worn out anyway, but better preventing it by leaving a small gap.

For those who are wondering, the reason I propose the rear brake lines with a 45° fitting is to avoid the need of welding a small bracket on the upright and use a piece of copper pipe and 2 fittings as it should be done according to the book (as you can see on this page of my website, or here under). I still think it is worth it

RearBL01.jpg

I actually made the first tries of this 45° with a Swedish builder, and first I thought is was tight just because his uprights were not exactly according to the books specs (as you can see on this page of my website, or here under, the outer edge of RU2 is more “vertical” if I can say so, so a bit closer to the wheel cylinder).

BLThomas.jpg

So I was convinced that with a books specs RU2, it would be enough clearance. When I realized a small notch on RU2 will still be needed, I asked the workshop (at Exact) if they could bend the stainless steel tube a bit closer to the threaded male nut. Unfortunately they can't, as they use a tool (kind of a jig) to bend the tubes, and can't change the specs. There is unfortunately nothing I can do about that.

I could not try the 45° on my own Roadster as I have Phil's uprights (Talonmotorsport), on which RU8 is cleverly set at 30° and so give plenty of clearance (the other upside being that they can be used for both drum and disc set-up). Having these uprights on my chassis I had my rear brake lines made with a straight fitting, exactly like the front ones.

RearBLb.JPG

So these are the explanations, sorry if you guys have to take the grinder, but the needed notch is really not more than a couple of mm. Hope these explanations will help you and following visitors to understand why there might this tiny clearance problem with the 45° fittings.
Bye, and happy new year 2013 to all of you!

[SeriesLandy]

I know mine are slightly different as they came from furore but the drum ends have a banjo and bolt, with a 30deg bend on them. They clear the uprights really well but I haven't got a pic.

[voucht]

Yes, banjo have this advantage to fit on very tight spaces.
But they are a pain to bleed, they are real "bubble traps" and for this reason, we always say they should be used only where there there is no room for a tubular fitting (seat seal). Also, the set banjo+banjo bolt+copper washers makes a more expensive fitting and would increase slightly the price of the brake lines.
But it is definitely a solution I want to propose now that I know that the 45° fitting is still a bit too long to fit without grinding the upright a little.