Master cylinder pivot

[Peter-C]

HI'

Has anyone made there own pivot that fits between the brake pedal and the master cylinder ? Or did you buy it ?

Cheers


Peter

[drury318]

Hi Peter, yes I made mine from an old front pipe retaining bolt off a zetec as I had a few kicking about, the ones that are a loose fit held in with a spring clip and a pin.
I cut it down leaving the threaded part on which acts as an adjuster, then cut a slot for the pedal with a slitting disc. I refused to pay silly money for one from the normal kitcar sources, Dennis.

[Enoch]

I made mine too. I cut the head off a long bolt and then made a clevis out of a bit of 1/2 inch square steel. Works a treat and costeth not a lot

[Peter-C]

Cheers lads,

I'll have a go tomorrow

Peter

[carlknight1982]

Brought mine from Rally design, cost about £4 I think

[Peter-C]

I've made my pivot and mocked up the pedal assembly. Do I need the full travel of the piston in the master cylinder - its about 30mm ? Because if I do the pedal is well facing forward. Looking at photos of other boxes it seems that all of the travel isn't used. Any ideas ?

Cheers

Peter

[Enoch]

In my car the brake is full on after just a few mm of movement of the master cylinder piston. I have a little bit of slack in the pedal but I reckon the top of the pedal only moves about 25-30mm from rest to full on. Hope that helps.

[jps]

Another ancient thread resurrection I'm afraid (the search function alone makes this forum worth the weight of a Haynes roadster in gold i reckon)...

I've made my pedal box and offered the brake master cylinder up to it today. I was wondering how the vertical movement of the hole in the brake pedal (ie, the hole that the clevis goes into must move up and down slightly as the pedal rotates around its pivot in a curve?) works with the fixed horizontal movement of the brake cylinder piston....

Is the vertical movement so negligible that it doesn't matter?

[K4KEV]

negligible ...yes but it does still need to move up and down a little.....if your hole is drilled "clear" then should be enough , if not then enlarge or file up and down to give you the required tolerance

[deezee]

All the wobble, as its been described, is taken up by the push rod, as its end is round where it goes into the master cylinder. This allows for off centre movement. Reaming out the pedal hole is just going to add slack to the system. My whole setup is as the book and it works great.