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  #11  
Old 10th January 2010, 10:50 AM
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Yup.
Seemed to be perfek.
Hard to beleive for 3.85,
especialy as some people want 20 quid for the mod
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  #12  
Old 10th January 2010, 10:55 AM
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so when reamed, the OD of the lower hole should be at 16mm.

Cool.

Cheers

TT
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  #13  
Old 10th January 2010, 11:03 AM
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See, now you getting complicated.

When I did mine I kept doing a bit then tested it, till I got about half the thread through.
So when I tightened it up it pulled in snug without the thread bottoming out.

Not sure, but think if you did it till the bottom was 16mm it may be too much.
You will need someone that has done one recently to be sure.
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  #14  
Old 10th January 2010, 12:09 PM
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i did mine as Dogwood suggests,

a little at a time, keep checking that you haven,t gone too far,

takes about 10 mins per upright, do it like tapping a thread, half turn in quarter turn back.... keeps the cutting edge of the reamer clean of swarf & helps get a clean cut on the steel.

cheers
andy
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  #15  
Old 10th January 2010, 12:16 PM
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Sounds easy enough, I just remember when I started a Locost back in 2004 that this was one of the difficult bits to get done ( or there was no information ). Which is why I bought Astra bottom ball joints.

I gave up that build due to a number of issues and sold the chassi.. I got an email last year from the guy that bougt the bits saying he needed a quick letter to state the chassis was new as he was about to register the car

TT
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  #16  
Old 10th January 2010, 04:12 PM
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Which was the question i was asking. is the taper the correct angle. Seems there is some doubt..

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  #17  
Old 10th January 2010, 07:34 PM
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Anyone got one to measure then?

TT
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  #18  
Old 10th January 2010, 08:34 PM
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I used the 19mm Axminster one set up in the pillar drill and kept cutting and checking till i was happy with the fit basiclly full nut and washer of thread sticking out the top and the largest bit of the taper just visible below the upright.
The taper is a good enough fit that after only tightening a little the need to be tapped to get back off.
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  #19  
Old 10th January 2010, 08:53 PM
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That still does not answer the question though. Is the taper of the axminster reamer the correct angle to match the ball joint taper?

The taper on the joint should be paralel to the taper in the hole otherwise there will be a loose fit at one end or the other.

TT
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  #20  
Old 10th January 2010, 09:09 PM
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A couple of points are coming to light here, firstly the question of the correct taper, I'm using Granada uprights and I'll check them for the taper before I go reaming anything out. Secondly is a comment someone made about using a reamer, you do not use it like a tap. You should never turn a reamer backeards as it blunts the cutting edge. With a tapered reamer you simply lift it out of the hole every so often while turning it forwards.

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