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  #11  
Old 26th November 2013, 12:03 AM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport View Post
I use a stanley knife to score in to the surface and because it's bright yellow it helps me find it again! Also by scoring the surface a dirty finger rubbed across it makes it a permanent fine black line which is much easier to see.
Engineers black?
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  #12  
Old 26th November 2013, 12:05 AM
adamv adamv is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport View Post
I use a stanley knife to score in to the surface and because it's bright yellow it helps me find it again! Also by scoring the surface a dirty finger rubbed across it makes it a permanent fine black line which is much easier to see.
Hi pal i sent you an email regarding chassis glat pack did you make head na tail of it lol.
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  #13  
Old 26th November 2013, 01:14 AM
adamv adamv is offline
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Also another question might sound stupid to most

lets take bar C for instance bottom cross rail.
my plans say over all length 32.4 with 80° mitre
so do i cut it to 32.4 then mitre th 80's either side or do i mitre 1 at 80 then 34.2 is the other end of the mitre


Hope someone understands that as reading back even im thinking wtf
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  #14  
Old 26th November 2013, 03:49 AM
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alga alga is offline
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Generally, the plans specify the outer dimensions. IOW you can cut the given tube square and then mitre the ends. It's easier to make a mitred cut from the outset, though, and because many tubes are paired, you can reuse the mitre on the remaining tube, too.

However, mate, have you got the right plans? Tube C? Sizes in inches? You must be looking at the Uncle Ron's book drawings, and you need the Chris Gibbs ones if you want to follow the SSC MX-5 guide. The Gibbs (Haynes Roadster) chassis is 4" longer, 2" wider and 1" higher than the Uncle Ron/Locost one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-O.../dp/1844253910
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  #15  
Old 26th November 2013, 09:03 AM
adamv adamv is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alga View Post
Generally, the plans specify the outer dimensions. IOW you can cut the given tube square and then mitre the ends. It's easier to make a mitred cut from the outset, though, and because many tubes are paired, you can reuse the mitre on the remaining tube, too.

However, mate, have you got the right plans? Tube C? Sizes in inches? You must be looking at the Uncle Ron's book drawings, and you need the Chris Gibbs ones if you want to follow the SSC MX-5 guide. The Gibbs (Haynes Roadster) chassis is 4" longer, 2" wider and 1" higher than the Uncle Ron/Locost one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-O.../dp/1844253910
Lol in my hasty im doing it man tone to the mrs look love heres the plan for all i no i could be building a bus.
i got them off a web site all the plans say is book chassis good job i aint started hacking up steel only to find out later i built the wrong car.

ill order that book now iv ordered the haynes book with the black roadster on just hope they come before sat so i can make a start unless anyone here has a file drawing they can link me to
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  #16  
Old 26th November 2013, 10:40 AM
rpjg1975 rpjg1975 is offline
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That is the build guide that ash gardiner did if memory serves. You want the thick hard back with a yellow roadster on the front to build to. That has all plans and dimensions in it as well.

May be wrong but sure I will be corrected if so

Russ
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  #17  
Old 26th November 2013, 01:21 PM
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Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamv View Post
Hi pal i sent you an email regarding chassis glat pack did you make head na tail of it lol.
I am having a bit of resort with regards to the flat packs and the prices for both the Sierra (book spec) and the MX5 (TMXR) chassis flat packs.
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Last edited by Talonmotorsport : 26th November 2013 at 01:35 PM.
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