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  #1  
Old 30th August 2009, 07:26 PM
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deezee deezee is offline
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Default Running Brake Lines

I'm trying to work out the best way to take the brake lines around the diff and into a T Piece I wanted to run it around the top of the transmission tunnel, as I would have more clearance from the gearbox and propshaft, but I'd have to go around the handbrake plate and diff.

Has anyone got any photos of how they did it, before I make a mess of it Infact any pictures showing brake / fuel line routing would be great.
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Old 30th August 2009, 10:27 PM
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Old 30th August 2009, 10:31 PM
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that was as far away from the prop as i could get it. look at it this way. if the prop gives up your have more to worry about than a brake line.
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Old 30th August 2009, 10:55 PM
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deezee deezee is offline
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Looks good Ash, I was going to run my brakes and fuel on the drivers side, and the electrics on the passenger side. I've got some 25mm strip on the rails for fixing stuff to.

I think I'm probably worrying over little details that I'll look back on and wonder why I spent hours fretting over. I don't have a handbrake cable yet, so I'm unsure how much room that needs around the back frame. What I'm trying to avoid if fixing in a brake pipe and finding that is obstructs the handbrake / electrics / fuel pump / fuel filter / fuel lines.
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Old 30th August 2009, 11:25 PM
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hand brake cables will run over the top of the diff over the diff box frame and down to the front of the each drum. will take a picture tomorrow.
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Old 31st August 2009, 10:44 AM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Those clico's are so handy !
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  #7  
Old 31st August 2009, 11:24 AM
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Wink Rose Joints

Looking great Ash

I like the rose jointed, rear camber adjusters

Do you happen to have the size you used to hand.

Must admit, I hadn't thought of Rose Joints & been searching for some M18x1.5 threadded bar
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  #8  
Old 31st August 2009, 01:28 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190256901257&ru=http%3 A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_tr ksid%3Dp4712.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D190256901257%26_sa cat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

these are the ones i used. dont forget to buy lock nuts. also you will need to shorten your rear upper wishbones by 10mm. as the rose joint sticks out a bit further than the book camber adjuster.

if you decide to go for it i can sort you out 18mm dia crush tubes and packing spacers.

my plan is to use the rose joints and if they die chop off the thread and weld it to a normal type camber adjuster.
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Old 31st August 2009, 02:18 PM
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Smile Thanks Ash

Cheers for that Ash, decent price too

Sounds like a good plan to me

As it happens, I bought two pairs of quick camber adjusters from rally design with a view to doing something to the rear .

I managed to obtain some lock nuts the other day.

The workshop is now quite a bit tidier, I can now get to the lathe

I'll be sure to give you a shout if ( When ) I run into difficuties
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  #10  
Old 3rd September 2009, 08:06 PM
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Hi, just jumping on the brake band wagon.

With the master cylinder sitting quite low, and some of the brake cylinders being higher than the said master cylinder, is there a chance fluid could leak back to the resevoir under gravity??

I know its a sealed system and shouldn't, unless theres a leak somewhere.

Would there be any problems with running the brake line through the top of the tunnel?? Low down seems to close to the clutch operating mechanism.

A few questions probably with easy solutions, just niggling me.
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