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  #11  
Old 26th November 2009, 08:36 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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And the rear lights ! As I found out the hard way after cutting the quater panel of one to fit to another.
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  #12  
Old 26th November 2009, 09:32 PM
Jimmyd Jimmyd is offline
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I'm not convinced you don't need to shorten the outer cable as discribed in the book. I've the cable temporarily fitted and I'm happy with the way it has a nice sweeping "S" bend. You'll only cut one end of the inner cable. I've a screw type nipple on at present and will flare the cable and add a dab of solder before the car ever gets near the IVA or road. OMG thats some way off!!!

J
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  #13  
Old 28th November 2009, 09:58 AM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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As promised (a little late but never mind)


http://www.flickr.com/photos/30468413@N03/4139778981/
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  #14  
Old 5th December 2009, 07:20 PM
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deezee deezee is offline
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I've just started this job today on my car. What a PITA. Why oh why couldn't CP14 be vertical? Also, how am I meant to even get the cable through CP14 without cutting the cable?

So does anyone have any pictures of how the fed the cable through CP14 and looped it around the equalising bar on the handbrake? I'm thinking of cutting the cable at the handbrake, and overlapping the slack, before clamping them together. Or am I miles off?
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  #15  
Old 5th December 2009, 09:11 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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This one is food for thought, on most Ford's the holes have a slot in the body where the cable fit's.
I personally cannot see any problem in slotting the plate to fit the cables and used a piece of angle instead of flat plate for the bracket.
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  #16  
Old 6th December 2009, 01:33 PM
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ozzy1 ozzy1 is offline
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As flyerncle says put a slot into it to thread the cable through.You can heat up a piece of angle with blow torch and encourage it to the required angle,or use a small offcut to pack it up to the required angle then weld fully.
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  #17  
Old 6th December 2009, 02:37 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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I used a piece of angle instead of the chassis plate as per book spec (rightly or wrongly )but thats what I used
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  #18  
Old 7th December 2009, 08:50 AM
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RAYLEE29 RAYLEE29 is offline
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Hi, why would you want the plate vertical? cant see any prob with how it is.
It should be fine slotting up to the holes (like a keyhole) the plate is definately stronger than the originals although your going to have to shorten the outers and the inner so why not just thread it all through before remaking the end up as in the book?
I havent done mine yet so its all theory at the mo but surely its not all that difficult.
Ray
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  #19  
Old 7th December 2009, 06:06 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Over engineering for strength and it was lying around and as for being vertical the choice is yours.The width of 2 hacksaw blades would probably do for the slot and re-use the clips for security and keeping it in place.
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  #20  
Old 7th December 2009, 08:01 PM
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deezee deezee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAYLEE29 View Post
Hi, why would you want the plate vertical? cant see any prob with how it is.

I havent done mine yet so its all theory
Ray
Yeah, well wait till your trying to flex a handbrake cable over the top of the diff, so its pointing towards the ground, then bend 90 degrees the opposite way. The cable just tries to pull its self out of the holes on CP14. It over stresses the cable. If it was vertical, it would remove the stress, fit better and make the adjuster easier to use.
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