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#1
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![]() Good to see your build progressing nicely but its prob best to try and sort out your dimension probs now whilst at any early stage. 10mm doesent seem alot but could cause more problems later.
Not teaching granny how to suck eggs (shout at me if i am!) but only a couple of small tacks are required on the corners of the tubes until the chassis is complete and needs fully welding. So any tubes can be easily be removed/repositioned without any fuss if you find an error. There was times when i tacked things in and then had to change later and its very frustrating but you will only make the chassis once so try and get it perfect 1st time ![]() ![]() |
#2
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![]() The thing is to fix the 10mm thing i will have to grind off loads and weld tr1 and tr2 back and thy gave mee soo much hassle.
I know what you mean about tacking welds, its just when i start, i get thinking.. oooo ,tiig welder, cool and stufflike that and often get carried away and it ends up abit(alot) more than a tacked weld. ![]() ![]() Well i took u7 out but have given up for today and will carry on tomorrow. Im too tired now ![]() |
#3
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![]() I think it will be worth it tho, that 10mm might stop fabbys bodywork fitting as good as its meant to!
I know what you mean about getting carried away with welding when i was serving my time as a plater i loved tig welding ![]() ![]() When i welded up my chassis i started tig but reverted to mig coz it was taking forever ![]() Last edited by mark : 25th June 2009 at 05:00 PM. |
#4
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![]() you must tack it first then fully weld it in stages otherwise it will never be straight
+-3mm is way to much you need to be working to +-0.5mm if your forcing things into place your doing it wrong. simple as that. every part should fit perfectly like a puzzle Last edited by AshG : 25th June 2009 at 04:51 PM. |
#5
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![]() awww. im not sure about fixing this, oh well, will sleep on it.
Also i would have bought a mig, as for a start its cheaper(considerably as the welders cheaper and you can buy argoshield instead of pure argon which is loads), but ive never mig welded before, only ever done tig, so i thought id just get a tig. Also i think fabbys nosecone should still fit as its not like 10mm higher, the actual from bit is kind of twisted forward(hard to explain, meaning tho only mods needed will be the diagonal supports and u1, u2. |
#6
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![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() may i make a suggestion said with all due respect....... slow down a bit....... yes it is very tempting to get on with it & get it done, i for one have got mine rolling in a fairly short time, BUT if you have the 10mm out at the front now plus the odd 3mm +- here & there by the time you come to fitting your suspension brackets it,ll be a nightmare to get the whole thing to come together, please accept my apologies if this sounds like "sucking eggs" but deep down we all want you to achieve a good build. i hope you are ok with my suggestion. stop, take stock of where you are with the dimensions & correct them. ![]() i,m sure each & everyone of us that has built the chassis have made mistakes but they must be put right at an early stage. best regards andy |
#7
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![]() Ok, after reading all your advice, and to be honest all of you are really telling me the wright thing to do, its just im kind of in the 'denile' stage of thing(
![]() Also i was saying earlier that fitting tr1 and tr2 was very ight and required force as u3,u6,u7 and u8 may not have been welded completely square to the base. So i had to just bend it abit, but i was aware this would happen while welding, so i had only lightly tack welded u3 and u6-8 to the base. Also the 3mm tolerance i was talking about only really applied to the diaganal between rectangle br7-10 which was just over 805mm rather than 808mm. Apart from this everything else is perfect ![]() |
#8
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![]() without actually seeing your chassis i think the main cause of the problem is more likely to be as you have said, caused by movement in the chassis from fully welding some of the pieces........ can i ask if you have fully welded BR1 BR2 to BR3 & BR4 ? as if you have then maybe this is why the chassis has been raised at the front ?
if so you might be able to cut the above out & re do them which hopefully will bring things in line for the front frame. andy |
#9
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![]() ok.. umm imm trying what your saying, but first, can someone try and explain to me what figure 4.10 is saying on page 39. It doesnt make any sense to me
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