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  #11  
Old 13th September 2010, 10:12 AM
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Default why should the rear heb nuts be taken off ?

I'm about to slaughter my 4th Sierra, 65000miles Pinto 2litre automatic. The engine will be used withoout electronics. So very much old school. Fits with the owner I guess.

A question though:
"One huge tip, remember to slacken the rear hub nuts while the car is still on it's wheels you'll come to regret it later on if you don't"

But for what reason ?

The shaft can be taken out of the hub carrier without loosening the nuts.
So I don't see the point. Won't you mess up the bearings ??
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  #12  
Old 13th September 2010, 11:34 AM
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Hi Eddy

Fair point & yes the driveshaft will come away from the subframe without removing the hub nut ( Although any ABS may have something to say about that )

My point is, we are dealing with a donor car that is 20-25 year's old & potentialy 150,000 miles on the clock.

Let's say that you take the easy route and remove the shafts/hubs as a single unit ..... Great idea right up to the point you notice any of the following .... Rough/worn hub bearing, play in a CV joint or split CV boots

You are then left with the task of trying to udo the rear hub nut .... You'll then be in the not very exclusive club of the many folk who have uttered the words " If only I had loosened those nuts before I removed it from the car "

Take it from me, slacken those hub nuts off half a turn before you strip the donor & no, you will not dammage the bearings !!??

I can think of a dozen reasons to slacken the hub nuts & none for not doing so
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  #13  
Old 13th September 2010, 12:18 PM
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Drum Brake cars can be withdrawn through the arm
Disk Brake cars can not be withdrawn through the arm.

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  #14  
Old 14th September 2010, 11:30 PM
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I think I've bought a bit of a lemon. The box doesn't look like it's going to fit a petrol engine because it's a long shaft. So now I need an engine and box. Bugger.
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Old 14th September 2010, 11:35 PM
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input shaft can be swapped if needed. new ones are available. And it's a good idea to replace the input bearing and the needles to the mainshaft anyway.

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  #16  
Old 19th September 2010, 06:27 PM
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I've just stuck the box on Ebay at a £20 starting price.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...STRK:MESELX:IT
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  #17  
Old 20th September 2010, 01:17 AM
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Default Donor Prices

Having enjoyed a browse of gaz 05s blog I couldn't help noticing his remark about the prices commanded by donor cars these days as vendors are aware of their values to locost types.

Just wondering, does anybody know if it might be cheaper to source the parts individually?

Regards,

Jonte
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  #18  
Old 20th September 2010, 07:42 AM
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Sourcing the parts individually may sound the cheaper optionbut you will not have all those clips and plugs, alternator, distributor, senders etc.
If you are dedicated enough you can get money back for doors and trim, then weigh in the shell etc. You could make a couple of hundred back.
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Old 20th September 2010, 11:30 AM
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Only 1.6 but with a set of bike carbs/bodies shoudl do well.

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  #20  
Old 21st September 2010, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonte View Post
Having enjoyed a browse of gaz 05s blog I couldn't help noticing his remark about the prices commanded by donor cars these days as vendors are aware of their values to locost types.

Just wondering, does anybody know if it might be cheaper to source the parts individually?

Regards,

Jonte
I have 2 engines (1.8 pinto and 2.0 dohc), gearbox (MT75), diff (1.8cvh estate), shafts, cvh loom, dohc ecu, hubs, fanimolds, and a few more bits I cant remember (shocks/springs were wrong size ) and have spent £110.

I dont have the space to break a car, so had to go this route.

it takes a while and a bit of bartering though!
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