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  #31  
Old 25th June 2009, 09:39 PM
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geeman geeman is offline
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Well can you see the blue line second pic in the abouve post on br7, ive done 2 of those 361mm apart so yes. The distances from tr1 and tr2 is exactly as per the book(627mm) and there seems to be nothing wrong with that.
The problem is however that on the side of tr1 it is about 357mm and the side of tr2 it is about 359mm high which means the top bars are 2 amd 4mm to high. Now this is simply(or not so simply) because of ff2 and ff3 being too long, which can be solved by cutting along the blue line drwan on them(see pic) with a cutting dic, and then welding back onto ff1. That should hopefully solve the problem.
I thought id include pics of the build so far aswell, and im surprised that ive done soo much and its only day 2. Alsotheres a pic of where u7 use to be







Handyandy, i really dont mind going in the garage, if anything, it better than being in the house, and cooler than the house at this time of the year, but more importantly, theres a welder there.
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  #32  
Old 25th June 2009, 09:51 PM
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Might be worth checking tr1 for straightness by looking down the length as a slight bow may account for the slight discrepancy. Seeing your pics jogged my memory that a couple of pieces of mine seemed to be a little out even tho everything was cut pretty much bang on and this was down to some of my steel being slightly bowed

Is it the same situation on both sides?

Those tacks are a touch too big so will have twisted things a bit but im sure you will sort it just a tiny tack on opposite corners is enough at this stage, its supprising how strong it becomes once triangulated even with tiny tacks
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  #33  
Old 25th June 2009, 09:53 PM
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Geeman,
yes you are doing well, but lets get this front end sorted.
it may not be as easy as you say to just cut the bottom of FF2 & FF3 as where the bend in these two pieces is positioned it is critical to where you place the front upper suspension brackets, do me a favour please & go & get the measurement from the build table to the point of the bend in the FF2 FF3 at the outer most position, as this will determine the position of the suspension brackets mounting( i know you haven,t even thought that far ahead but it needs to be correct from where you are up to at the moment) hope i,m not being a pain in the butt?

andy
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Last edited by HandyAndy : 25th June 2009 at 09:55 PM.
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  #34  
Old 25th June 2009, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark View Post
Might be worth checking tr1 for straightness by looking down the length as a slight bow may account for the slight discrepancy. Seeing your pics jogged my memory that a couple of pieces of mine seemed to be a little out even tho everything was cut pretty much bang on and this was down to some of my steel being slightly bowed

Is it the same situation on both sides?

Those tacks are a touch too big so will have twisted things a bit but im sure you will sort it just a tiny tack on opposite corners is enough at this stage, its supprising how strong it becomes once triangulated even with tiny tacks
Yep, its the same situation on both sides of being too high, but you are correct, there is a bow in it, but thats becasue i did that to make it fit as the nose was too high to tr1 and tr2 are being strssed alot as the are being bent upwards atu3 and u6 so they reach the extra height of ff4, but they are bent ever so slightly, whcih will be fixed by lowering ff4
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  #35  
Old 25th June 2009, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post
Geeman,
yes you are doing well, but lets get this front end sorted.
it may not be as easy as you say to just cut the bottom of FF2 & FF3 as where the bend in these two pieces is positioned it is critical to where you place the front upper suspension brackets, do me a favour please & go & get the measurement from the build table to the point of the bend in the FF2 FF3 at the outer most position, as this will determine the position of the suspension brackets mounting( i know you haven,t even thought that far ahead but it needs to be correct from where you are up to at the moment) hope i,m not being a pain in the butt?

andy
im not completely sure as to what you mean, but i think this is it. If you look on the top diagram on page 162(or the drawing for ff2 and ff3 in appendix 1 if you have the old book which may be different) the bit thats meant to be 69.5 is about 69.5mm, but the bit thats meant to be 290mm is about 294mm and 293mm which is what is making it higher i think. Hope that helps.

Also id much rather get this fixed now than have bigger problems later, so any help is much appreciated.
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  #36  
Old 25th June 2009, 10:14 PM
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yes i think you are correct, the bit that should be 290mm , as long as you have the 69.5 to the bend & the chassis is 355mm from the build table to the top of the chassis then if so it should all be ok,

lets say you cut the two FF,s to the reqired 290mm will this then bring the top of your chassis down at the front to 355mm? if so then i think you,ve cracked it.

sorry if i was being long winded but i was trying to make sure the suspension bracket placings will still be correct for later in the build.

also in an earlier post you made you mention that the top of front frame was now not 75mm behind FF1, have you cut TR1 & TR2 to correct lengths? as thats the only reason i can see that you had to push the front frame forward a bit, ( this needs to be correct for suspension brackets, yes those pesky suspension brackets )

cheers
andy
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  #37  
Old 25th June 2009, 10:18 PM
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That sounds like could be the problem with front frame.

As Andy said The position of the suspension brackets is critical but as long as you use the jigs and dimensions as described in the book they will end up in the correct place. Its still best to have everything as close as you can though, some people have said they needed 3mm packing behind the upper front brackets to make them fit so dont worry too much
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  #38  
Old 25th June 2009, 10:20 PM
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Well it is just under 75mm as forcing tr1 and tr2 to join ff4 caused it to push ff4 back abit, but this should be fixed by shortening ff2 and 3( i desperately hope) anyway, its about 3-4mm or less pushed behindso around 72mm.

(wow, ive never worked to these tolerences before as normally if i weld somthing slightly off, i just change my design and say it was intentional and that i welded everything right )
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  #39  
Old 25th June 2009, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark View Post
That sounds like could be the problem with front frame.

Its still best to have everything as close as you can though, some people have said they needed 3mm packing behind the upper front brackets to make them fit so dont worry too much
as Mark has said, yes some(if not most) people have needed to add 3mm spacers behind the front upper suspension brackets ( i did too ), i was just making sure that the actual bend in FF2 & 3 wasn,t where the suspension bracket back face would be welded to, hope that makes sense , basically to be able to have a flat surface for the suspension bracket.

Nice one Geeman, i think you,ve sorted the front frame out & also this may help the placement of U1 & U2.

all the best
andy
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  #40  
Old 25th June 2009, 10:32 PM
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At least you know whats gone wrong and you know how to fix it! its when you dont that it goes pearshaped!
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