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  #31  
Old 9th April 2010, 12:58 PM
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geeman geeman is offline
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Originally Posted by Bonzo View Post
It may sound obviuos but have you double checked the clutch pedal end of things ??

With the cable engaged in the pedal but not to the gearbox, it may be worth checking that the pedal & inner cable are free to move enough to give you the desired amount of travel

Also worth checking the cable routing .... If you have a very sharp kink in it, it'll be very difficult to depress the pedal .... The cable will be wanting to fold in half, rather than pulling the inner cable through the outer sleve

As said very difficut to diagnose the problem without seeing things in person.
the clutch cable moves freely ans has enough travel, so that isnt a problem(its not bent sharply either)

i wonder, when the fork moves forward, what happens, as i dont see how the clutch is meant to work.

also i remembered this cable from somewhere.. is it for anything...:



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  #32  
Old 9th April 2010, 01:57 PM
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That cable your speedo drive cable from the gearbox.

With regards to the clutch operation. The clutch fork pushes the clutch release bearing into the clutch cover plate (AKA the springy bit ) The depressed cover plate then takes the pressure off the clutch friction plate, so now the engine is no longer connected to the gearbox and both are free to rotate at independent speeds.
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  #33  
Old 9th April 2010, 02:06 PM
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Yep that cable is the speedo one & will have nothing to doe with the clutch operation

Right Ho .... Here's a brief insight into how the cluch works

You have a friction plate that sits against the flywheel the central part is fitted via the input shaft of the gearbox.

This is held in place by a sprung loaded clutch cover .... Thus trapping the friction plate against the flywheel & providing drive from the engine to the gearbox.

You have said when you press the pedal, the release bearing makes contact with with the clutch covers spring fingers ..... This is normal .... The lever now needs to move a little further forward & will diss-engage the friction plate.

When the fingers on the clutch cover are depressed it releases the pressure on the friction plate, this in turn is free to spin & will stop the engine driving the gearbox .

I don't expect you have ..... Make sure you have put the friction plate the right way against the flywheel

The flat side of the friction plate must face the flywheel

If the release bearing is free to move on the input shaft, it may be a case of exerting a bit more pressure on the pedal to see what happens !!
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  #34  
Old 9th April 2010, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonzo View Post
Yep that cable is the speedo one & will have nothing to doe with the clutch operation

Right Ho .... Here's a brief insight into how the cluch works

You have a friction plate that sits against the flywheel the central part is fitted via the input shaft of the gearbox.

This is held in place by a sprung loaded clutch cover .... Thus trapping the friction plate against the flywheel & providing drive from the engine to the gearbox.

You have said when you press the pedal, the release bearing makes contact with with the clutch covers spring fingers ..... This is normal .... The lever now needs to move a little further forward & will diss-engage the friction plate.

When the fingers on the clutch cover are depressed it releases the pressure on the friction plate, this in turn is free to spin & will stop the engine driving the gearbox .

I don't expect you have ..... Make sure you have put the friction plate the right way against the flywheel

The flat side of the friction plate must face the flywheel

If the release bearing is free to move on the input shaft, it may be a case of exerting a bit more pressure on the pedal to see what happens !!
i think it may just need more pressue. It just sems that the springy bits on the clutch cover arent very springy as i evn stood on it and the friction plate didnt seem to move.. but ill put it back in and push hard this time..Thanks
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  #35  
Old 9th April 2010, 02:55 PM
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ok.. sorted... well kinda, i got it to push down, with alot of force, but i dont think i could keep this up as the pedal feels as if its bending. Ill probably make another one out of some 5mm steel.
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  #36  
Old 9th April 2010, 03:23 PM
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I'd have a good look around the pedal box as it sounds like you have some flex somewhere. I'm using a stronger FWD clutch cover plate thats kinda like off / on. The book pedal and pedal box is plenty strong enough when bolted in correctly.
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  #37  
Old 9th April 2010, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deezee View Post
I'd have a good look around the pedal box as it sounds like you have some flex somewhere. I'm using a stronger FWD clutch cover plate thats kinda like off / on. The book pedal and pedal box is plenty strong enough when bolted in correctly.
there doesnt seem to be any problems, however the whole clutch problem may just be me wanting a soft clutch.

Anyway, ive finished the handbrake as the screw on nipple came today, and it worked perfectly. I also received my sikaflex today, and glued the left rear arch on. however it seemed kinda messy as a bit of the sealent is visible on the outside, so i think im just gonna rivet the other one on, infact i ended up riveting the left one anyway so the sealant can set.
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  #38  
Old 9th April 2010, 07:15 PM
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piccies:




rear arch fitted:



rivets inside rear arch(will redo with washers later)



handbrake nipple in situ

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  #39  
Old 9th April 2010, 07:18 PM
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more rear arch:



brake pedal piston thing:





some sikaflex(well sikafles like stuff). Is stifs to my hands like anything and even after 2 thorough scrubbing with swarfega its not even beginning to come off my hands.


a MAJOR mess:
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  #40  
Old 9th April 2010, 07:22 PM
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more mess:



there just isnt enough space for me to move anymore.....
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Last edited by geeman : 9th April 2010 at 07:25 PM.
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