DIY 4 Branch Manifold

[brainbug007]

I was wondering if anyone else had gone this route as from what I've seen so far these are quite expensive to buy off the shelf! I was hoping to be able to make one a bit cheaper so that my exhaust pipes come out of the engine at more of a right angle to enable me to place the engine a bit farther back as the downpipe at the moment is very close to the passenger footwell. Does anyone know of any good guides?

[ozzy1]

Not a how to guide but i came across these on my internet browsing,seems quite good price really.

https://www.europaspares.com/175/EXH...MANIFOLDS.html

[brainbug007]

That's not bad actually compared to others! Any idea if it's considered better for the engine to go 4-2-1 or 4-1?

[ozzy1]

I think a 4-2-1 gives more torque over a 4-1 system.
Personally i would go for the look of the one you prefer.

[deezee]

My exhaust is a bit of a butchered job. I got the cheapest 2nd hand, kitcar, exhaust I could off Ebay, then proceeded to modify it. Took a good week to cut it all up and re weld it. Looked awful so I put exhaust wrap on it. Its not great, but in total the manifold and backbox cost less than £100, so I'll put up with it.

[Tilly819]

depends if you want a decent one or not, they can be made to work for cheep but chances are they wont provide great flow or look that cosmetically pleasing, if you want to get the top performance potential out of the exhaust then it will cost you either way, i made a full tube SS system from scratch for my blackbird engine and the whole system inc Cat and back box cost about £600 in raw material add onto that the hours it took to make and the cost of argon and SS tig filler ...... im sure you are getting the picture, i have plenty of comments on how nice it looks etc and it also does the business of giving about an extra 10HP with no other mods to the engine.

i have to say im not sure what the going rate is for a bespoke manifold but i expect if you went to a pipe shop with a CNC tube bender they would be able to do the job very quickly, too a very good standard at a good price.

hope this helps

tilly

[baz-r]

when making your own there is always a trade off between looking good, working well and the space you want to fit it in.

the idea is to keep all the branches the same length of tube to get good cylender ballance

[robo]

Originally Posted by baz-r

when making your own there is always a trade off between looking good, working well and the space you want to fit it in.

the idea is to keep all the branches the same length of tube to get good cylender ballance

Baz r is right , do the best with what you have . Primary lengths, collectors, exhaust length and silencer are all a science . Primary length alone can make a huge difference when playing with dynos,same applies to the order they arrive in the collector , but one thing is for sure in that whatever you do it will be better than a stock cast iron manifold.

Bob

[brainbug007]

Fair enough, it sounds like its not really worth taking a cheap route on this whether modifying an existing manifold or buying a cheap one. I'll just have to keep the engine a bit farther forward and at a later date when I can afford a really good manifold then look at moving the engine back then

[brainbug007]

After getting my engine mounted I think i'm going to have to do something about this before IVA as the stock one that came with my donor is sitting really close to the passenger footwell and is likely to heat that area up... Does anyone know if one from another car would fit like a 1.6 cvh? These guys seem to have a good range and the prices don't seem too bad for a performace 4 branch. http://www.speedshack.co.uk/FORD(EXHAUSTS).htm