Many questions...

[twinturbo]

Stoneligh burgurs must be cheap then, it would be cheaper to buy a new one if you went on FordFair prices... But that is Silverstone!

TT

[Josh]

Originally Posted by martin62

Hi Andy just tacked up front frame today and the suspension brackets still seem to have a 3mm gap alround and the book measurment seem to be spot on.I was thinking of making my jigs 6mm shorter instead of packing the 6 brackets out 3mm would this make much difference Thanks Aidan

Hi Aidan

Personally I'd put the brackets where they're supposed to be, I ended up putting 5mm spacer plates in behind all my front brackets. If you do bring them in then you'd have to play around with the steering rack extensions and get them the right length, or you'd end up with horrible toe-out. Seems a lot of hassel for the sake of some 3mm plates?

Josh

[Josh]

Originally Posted by gingea1pom

I have finished with my reamer now and will bring it to Stoneleigh free to someone who buys me a burger.

Cheers Ginge

Hi Ginge - if I brought my uprights with me could I ream them on location?!

[SeriesLandy]

Originally Posted by Josh

What have people used to bolt the lower rear upright joint to the lower rear wishbone? I can't use studding or make my own rods as the 12mm round bar I have access to is soft as s**t !

You need to find a local bolt shop and buy a length of HT studding. I think mine cost about 6quid. That was after spending £5 a piece on bolts that were too short for the job.

[gingea1pom]

Originally Posted by Josh

Hi Ginge - if I brought my uprights with me could I ream them on location?!

If you have a spare two hours (that’s how long it took me by hand) and some sort of vice.

I’m not sure what the studding is for!

Cheers Ginge

[SeriesLandy]

Quoted the wrong bit....whoops.

Also just found these on eBay.

[HandyAndy]

Originally Posted by gingea1pom

If you have a spare two hours (that’s how long it took me by hand) and some sort of vice.

I’m not sure what the studding is for!

Cheers Ginge

2 hrs Ginge ????? blimey

I must,ve had my 3 shredded wheat the day i did mine, about 20 mins per upright

cheers
andy

[HandyAndy]

Originally Posted by martin62

Hi Andy just tacked up front frame today and the suspension brackets still seem to have a 3mm gap alround and the book measurment seem to be spot on.I was thinking of making my jigs 6mm shorter instead of packing the 6 brackets out 3mm would this make much difference Thanks Aidan

my apologies Aiden , I missed this post

As Josh has said, its better to pack out the gap with spacers, its a common situation that most builders come across ( me included ).

If you altered the jigs you may well create a problem for the setup of the suspension / ackerman angle , which has been designed into the Roadster at the given measurements by Chris Gibbs,

sorry for late reply to your question.

cheers
andy

[martin62]

Thanks for the help will atack it on sunday.Aidan

[Josh]

Ordered my bolts from ebay, cheers for the link SeriesLandy! The build is coming on nicely now, front uprights have been dismantled from the shock units and the diff' bracketry is all welded up. I'm now on a big hunt for a pre Aug '95 mondeo for the engine and ECU so I don't have to run a cat. I've got 4 weeks to find one - just as I was getting going on the build again I've now got to go back to uni!

Some more questions... I'm going to use 2mm ali sheet for my floor - how would you suggest I mount my seats? Would it be enough to bolt them straight to the ali plate or would I be better off welding some steel support tubes in between the lower rails and transmision tunnel rails? I'll be using seat runners nicked off my 5door metro as it'll almost cirtainly fail its next MOT in a few months beyond economic repair

I'm struggeling to find a source of seamless tube for my roll bar, id really rather not make it from seammed tube if I can help it. Anyone got any suggestions for the south London/Kent area?

I've been thinking about the exhaust and purely from an astetics point of view id quite like to have 4 seperate tubes come out down the length of the bonnet, slope down to the base of the chassis parralel where they'd meet a single horizontal tube running along the car back to the scilencer. kind of like this:

Then add the horizontal tube in along the bottom...

Will this work from a performance point of view or would I be better off sticking to a more conventional 4-1 or 4-2-1 system?

Cheers
Josh