|
|
#1
14th April 2010, 11:13 PM
|
|||
|
|||
help best way to check chassis aligment?
if you have read my other post you may know i suspect the chassis i have just borght of ebay has been made incorectly but cant be sure where the prevous builder went wrong
 i think im getting about 3-4mm out of parellel on the bottom tube of the frount frame  makes me think if this is wrong the whole front suspension will be on the wonk not to mention what other mistakes have been made  i was thinking of building a build table and marking it out to see if i can see where it went tits unless someone has a better idea i can see some mods have been made to the trans tunnel it looks off set to the passingers side to take a bike engine that will need unmoding im also finding the short pice of box attched to the chassis plate that takes the top of the shock has been missed out dam i should have bided on that talon s/h one! handyandy if your reading this im going to need som odd tubes and cp's if i make a list you rekon you could come up with the goods?  
|
|
#2
14th April 2010, 11:29 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Hi Baz.
If it were me personaly, I would want to know it was as near perfect as i could make it. However, you may want to consider taking off the suspension brackets, making your own jigs, and placing them on the chassis in the correct position? First thing I would do now, is have a measure up, and see if your suspension mounts are in the correct places. Jas
__________________
http://www.flickr.com/photos/3326151...7611049241239/
|
|
#3
15th April 2010, 12:45 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
No problem, get your list together & get in touch, happy to help . Just a thought.....are you going to Stoneleigh kit car show? could bring the parts to the show for you. As for checking the chassis...........before checking the suspension brackets you need to ensure the diagonal measurements are correct, if they are then other faults can be sorted  If it needs a new front frame then thats easy to sort for you. It sounds like the chassis was fully welded incorrectly ( need to clamp it down & alternate the welding process from side to side/front to back etc), if its been fully welded all along one side at a time then heat distortion will cause the chassis to "lift", again.....depending on where this has occurred it can be sorted. another check to do is the height of the chassis, should be as per book spec & be even all around at same points on either side etc...........then check the suspension brackets . hope you get it sorted. cheers andy
|
|
#4
15th April 2010, 12:54 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
im mesuring +2mm both sides from br12 to br10 but parellel br5,6,11,12 are parellel and square and +8 one end of ff1 and +11 the other from br10 im thinking br1+2 are cut incorect instead of cut to fit this is a bit worrying as the front suspension mounts fit off the frount frame and could have some pritty funky frount axel offset! any i wasnt planing on building an indycar 
|
|
#5
15th April 2010, 01:11 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
 its looking a bit tricky to take in all the mesurement at once im still thinking on building a template to sit the chassis base on marked out what does all the chassis pros (andy/talon etc) think do i need to worry about an extra 2mm from br12 to br10? im thinking as long as its straight and true 2mm longer in the wheel base is F all i cant work out if the prevous builder knew he went wrong at the start why did he carry on with all the other stuff? i could almost see it by eye
|
|
#6
15th April 2010, 01:20 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
if it were me i would be already starting the ball rolling to get my money back.
if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for the chassis?
__________________
My Roadster Is Finished NerNer....... Pigs can fly, you just have to carry them onto the plane. My Pictures http://s707.photobucket.com/user/ashgardiner/profile/
|
|
#7
15th April 2010, 01:21 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
the extra 2mm between BR10 & BR12 is not a major worry, as you will still be attaching the rear suspension brackets with the book spec measurements anyway. I,d be more concerned of what you have said about the front frame measurements, tho i,m not sure exactly sure how you mean in your description. Is it possible to remove the front frame totally & remake it? are the BR1 & BR2 rails correctly positioned & also TR1 & TR2 ? if they are then maybe the original builder has just got the front frame built wrong ( its a tricky blighter  ) but causes major issues if its wrong.I could send you a build table template to help check the bottom rail positions? cheers andy
|
|
#8
15th April 2010, 03:35 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
just come in for a brew. mr tape mesure is saying the two tubes that run inline frount to back (would be bottom of engine bay ) are not in parrellel and pritty much eveything forward from the bulkhead is out of parellel both ways
on the upside the back end looks ok but i havent gone to mad with the tape yet ash here is the linky to the item http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT it cost 380 in the end top it off i have just seen talon drop the price to 360 but i did get loads of extras chucked in i did ask the seller if any mistakes had been made when the chassis had been built only to be told it had changes made to the trans tunnel due to design for a bike engine looking at it prob the best idea i have had so far is chop off eveything forward from the bulkhead and rebuild the hole frount end to be honnest im pritty p1ssed off heres a lesson for all thoes who are looking for things on ebay buy only from andy and talon! i think what i need is a second pair of eyes who has at least built a chassis of some kind please bear in mind people the seller is a member of this site and can read anything posted here Last edited by baz-r : 15th April 2010 at 03:54 PM.
|
|
#10
15th April 2010, 04:10 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
happy to help. cheers andy
|
 |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Linear Mode
