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  #11  
Old 16th October 2011, 12:08 PM
Aussie_Haynes_MX5 Aussie_Haynes_MX5 is offline
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More work done today as i have to go back to work tomorrow. Bugger. So again knuckled down and got as much of the rear sorted as i could. Unfortunately my calculations may have been a bit out as when i lifted the frame into place, it's moved if forward 15mm. Not too sure how it will go, so the MX5 is now up in the air and i've done a few rough measurements on the diff in situ. Hopefully it will be OK.

Next weekends job is to remove the diff and put it into the chassis and check dimensions and clearance. Should only take an hour or so, and then i can attempt to get the engine and gearbox out, split them and start giving them a wash. Hopefully i can lift the engine and gearbox into the frame and also see how they fit. Big plans for 2 days.

The bloke who is going to come and weld the chassis will be coming on Wednesday to have a look at how big the job is. I'm reckoning that there will be at least 2 days of work due to the heat being put into the frame.

And now for pictures . . . . . . .









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  #12  
Old 16th October 2011, 12:17 PM
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Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
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I would start taking some of that paint off the areas where you need to weld it, you'll have all sorts of fun trying to get a grinder in there once it's all tacked up. How did you find making the diff mounts, did you make a jig to hold all in place or use the 4 pairs of hands method?
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  #13  
Old 16th October 2011, 12:30 PM
Aussie_Haynes_MX5 Aussie_Haynes_MX5 is offline
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A little from column A and a little from column B. Made a jig to get everything in place, and then had to have a bit of a hand holding a few bits to tack them in place. Looks fantastic. Will see about the welds with the primer. My mate should tell me if i've got it completely wrong or not. Anyway it's pretty thing stuff, maybe it can be blasted through with a bit more amperage. Find out Wednesday.
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  #14  
Old 16th October 2011, 01:11 PM
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Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
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Please don't just weld over the top of the paint or the black scale if using HRC/HRS, if you contaminate a weld it becomes porous like honey comb and you could of just used chewing gum or super glue.
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  #15  
Old 16th October 2011, 02:40 PM
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voodoo voodoo is offline
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Nice work there mate, good to see the design start to get produced! I agree with Phil about the metal though - it can never be too clean.
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  #16  
Old 17th October 2011, 11:56 AM
Aussie_Haynes_MX5 Aussie_Haynes_MX5 is offline
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Hi voodoo and Talon, any chance you guys might have a picture of the diff actually mounted. I'm after a few pics from the front mainly to try and see how the diff flange sits. Got the issue with the seats i have and if i need to modify the transmittion tunnel some more to get them to fit properly.
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  #17  
Old 17th October 2011, 12:02 PM
MarkB MarkB is offline
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Nose of the diff runs down the centre so whatever you do don't alter the tunnel too much just to fit a seat..And I love that Model T in the pictures, now that would be a cool kit to make so i could play at being Stan laurel on the roads
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  #18  
Old 22nd October 2011, 01:44 PM
Aussie_Haynes_MX5 Aussie_Haynes_MX5 is offline
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Well what a ridiculously busy day. No welding done this weekend. I started the mock up of the major components before the frame was too hard to ammend. With thanks to the welder mate who also suggested it was a good idea to do. The engine, transmission, diff and steering column all got removed and started to get installed in the chassis. I had to to this to ensure that everything fits properly. So far so good, i've found that the diff fits brilliantly and had to cut a hole in the build table to get the height and the clearance of the engine and sump. I was really worried that the diff would be an awrward fit, but it seems to be fine, i will have to make a slight modification to the transmission tunnel so the seat fits a bit better. The gearbox fitted really sweetly. No need for cutting and changing. Just had to angle the extension housing a bit more than i thought and it was all good.

Tomorrows job is to get the steering wheel and column mounted so it looks like a real car. Putting the gear knob on was not enough to satisfy me. Although i've spent about 30 minutes just sitting in the seat admiring the view and changing gears and making the nessescary vroom vroom noises this evening.

So now for pictures, it's a bit messy at the moment but thats what you get for








Last edited by Aussie_Haynes_MX5 : 22nd October 2011 at 01:47 PM.
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  #19  
Old 22nd October 2011, 01:46 PM
Aussie_Haynes_MX5 Aussie_Haynes_MX5 is offline
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Last 2 pics





Now to pose a question, what ride height do people have? I was going for 100mm chassis to ground clearance.
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  #20  
Old 22nd October 2011, 03:34 PM
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Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
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Depends on what size wheels you are going for 100-125mm front - rear seams about right. The best way to do is look at what angles the wishbones are sitting at with the full weight of the car and 2 people sat on the springs. The wishbones should either be horizontal or have 1-2 degrees of upsweep to keep the suspension movements all in the same plain.
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