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  #91  
Old 4th August 2013, 12:50 PM
wylliezx9r wylliezx9r is offline
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The crush tubes should be about 1mm wider than the bushes either side. This is crucial as otherwise the bush will be clamped rather than the tube, this will stress the nrbrackets and not allow the wishbones to move freely. The bush should be free to rotate around the tube. I had the same problem when I built my car, I took a belt sander to the bushes to remove the desired amount of material. Bit of a pain in the ass job but a must.

HTH Dan
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  #92  
Old 4th August 2013, 01:15 PM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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There have been a few instances over with the MX5s where some PU bushes have bound on the wishbone tube, giving a very springy ride. This has led to complete failure of the wishbone in some cases. Some of the bushes shown had an obvious bulge to them, hence the question
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  #93  
Old 4th August 2013, 04:52 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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I've got the rear end together and moved the chassis on 2 wheels to its new site (4th one!). So cool seeing wheels on it

Chers for the info guys, never realised the extent of the importance re tube clamping. Knew it would affect ride but didn't twig the possibility of complete failure.

The polybushes all now sit such that the crush tube is at least flush with the poly-part. Will this be enough? I'll do the front bones so the crush's are all at least slightly proud, but will the rear be OK? Is this an IVA issue?

Pics to follow...
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  #94  
Old 4th August 2013, 09:01 PM
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alga alga is offline
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I had one that was just flush, now it has all the paint and primer from the bracket embedded in the PU. Make them stand out at least a fraction of a millimetre. I doubt this would cause any problems at IVA, though, it's not very obvious from the outside.
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Albert
Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations
Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate.
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  #95  
Old 31st August 2013, 08:51 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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A few pictures, better late than never...

Wheels! And with me standing in the engine bay holding the front end up, it moved!


Some welds on the rear end, managed to give myself a nasty burn on this beam too


And finally, what I'm planning to do next:


I don't like the look of that rubber bush on the steering column, so I'd like to splice the socket from the Escort rack onto the Sierra's metal UJ.

I noticed today though that there's a rubber spacer/packing near the top of the Sierra column, this may complicate the welding. Thoughts?
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  #96  
Old 26th January 2014, 06:23 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Progress report!
(Slightly delayed and overdue...)

Made quite a bit of progress since the last update, chassis is now fully welded with engine and gearbox mounting plates in place and it's all had a coat of primer and one coat of hammerite to stop the rust (except for one rail that I didn't notice untill AFTER I'd cleaned the brush!)

Midway through this I trial fitted the engine, took a while to shoehorn it out of the shed, but definately worth it.





This allowed to measure the positioning of the engine mount plates, weld them on and finish the chassis.
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  #97  
Old 26th January 2014, 06:33 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Since then I've begun working on the engine mounts themselves. Step one, get the chassis on wheels.
Got most of the way there and realised the other two wheels in my shed were still grubby. No grubby parts near my pretty pretty car!





Cleaned the wheels today and finished off the plates for the engine mounts:



I'm hoping to be able to use empty gas cylinders for the struts. Thoughts? (diameter of about 75mm and wall thivkness of 2mm)

Also, I'm starting a new job in a couple weks as a Process Engineer, so I'll fuinally be able to buy some of the other parts I need!
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  #98  
Old 26th January 2014, 06:56 PM
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voucht voucht is offline
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Hi!

First, congrats for the new job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
I'm hoping to be able to use empty gas cylinders for the struts. Thoughts? (diameter of about 75mm and wall thivkness of 2mm)
If you still have the Sierra you took the engine from, you will certainly not be able to reuse the propshaft, unless you want/can modify it yourself, re-weld, balance, etc. Not the easiest with this 2 pieces MT75 propshaft, I really struggled to find a way to re-use mine, and ended up bying a custom one from Duning and Faibanks (which I'm very happy with)

So you could use the propshaft tube for your engine mounts. I might have to change my engine mounts (I'm not extra happy with mine), and that is what I'm considering to do if I have too. I kept my Sierra propshaft for that, just in case...

Just an idea...

Good luck
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  #99  
Old 30th January 2014, 05:48 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Bit the bullet and bought some box.

Spent an hour with the angle grinder and a couple old cylinders today trying to fab some engine supports and gave up; they're just too wide for my plates, too much wall that won't be supported and they get right in the way of the mounting bolts.

I've still got the old prop but I think it'll be just as much of a pig. I also don't want to chop it up too soon in case it can be used by whoever makes up my new prop.

So, bought some 40x40x3mm box off fleabay.

On a positive note my chassis and engine are both sat level and square ready to chop and fit my supports when i do get them!


One quick question before I go, SS1 (curved piece outside the seat backs), I left mine off for a very good reason I can't quite recall and I've noticed a couple builds also without them (Ste's?). Should I weld them on or bolt them or leave them?
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  #100  
Old 30th January 2014, 06:25 PM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
One quick question before I go, SS1 (curved piece outside the seat backs), I left mine off for a very good reason I can't quite recall and I've noticed a couple builds also without them (Ste's?). Should I weld them on or bolt them or leave them?
You will need them fitted, or a replacement to give something for the rear arches to locate on. Lots of the GRP suppliers will have them as part of either the panel or side panel moulding.
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