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  #31  
Old 26th March 2010, 12:21 PM
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AshG AshG is offline
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david you come to exactly the same conclusion as me. i think its safe to say the RD rd camber adjusters are not suitable for the Haynes Roadster suspension design.
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  #32  
Old 26th March 2010, 02:59 PM
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Well done David

A very nice bit of research work on your behalf

The infomation you have provided has made things a lot clearer in my mind & yes I agree, it would appear that the camber adjuster in question is probably not suited for use on the Roadster .

Thanks for taking the time to look into the matter mate
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  #33  
Old 26th March 2010, 03:51 PM
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So are you saying that the principal of the quick adjuster is a complete no go, or if the adjuster was made from a different material would it be suitable?

Any advice appreciated, as I have just made a set for a friend, who asked me to incorporate the RD adjuster. If they are not suitable, I would rather change them now.

Thanks

Gus
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  #34  
Old 26th March 2010, 04:21 PM
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I've just read this thread and it is quite shocking to see what has happened to ash's adjuster(happy NOT to hear about an accident) but could it be that it was just a duff adjuster , I've used this sort of set-up before on my rally cars on tarmac and in the forest and never had one fail on me, also how many other people are using them with no problems at all ? Just a thought.
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  #35  
Old 26th March 2010, 07:20 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Change of material for the adjuster and design of tube it sits in to provide a stop to prevent it coming out and thankfully this has been brought to the attention of all without a major disaster and loss to Ash.
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  #36  
Old 26th March 2010, 07:36 PM
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Could it be the angle of danglement of the bush on the wishbone playing silly beggars with the adjuster? Reason I ask is the GTS jobs were done 6 or 7 years ago with that bush straight as per the locost, I did the first GTS car(long story) and farted about for hours and couldn't see why folk angled that bush when using sierra uprights as the track rod end is supposed to work at nutty angles. And to me it kinda looked wrong as for working out suspension geometry you use the centres of pivots and ball joints and with the angle bush it looked like it would bend.....Just my views on it by the way and there are lots out there being used and used hard on race tracks with no drama.
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  #37  
Old 26th March 2010, 10:53 PM
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davidimurray davidimurray is offline
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The principle of the adjuster is perfectly sound - the issue here would seem to be the material strength related to our wishbone designs and the loads seen.

My calculation is a very simplified analysis of the situation as it does not consider the actual wishbone swept geometry.For example if the the roadster wishbones travel through 25 degrees and the locost only travel through 20 degrees then the difference in loads will be much greater.

One other possible thought for construction is that by boring the bosses before welding them - the holes may become oval.

Without doing calcs I couldn't say for sure - but I suspect a set in mild steel would do the job. I plan to make my own from EN24T - not becuase of the strength - but due to its good performance in cyclic loading conditions - and beause I have some lying around The important area to be concerened about is the head and the surface area as this is now taking the load. Put another way we know the thread will take the load as it does in a standard wishbone. You need to be careful with the transition between the shank of the adjuster of the head as any sharp edges will be stress raisers that could start a failure. Ideally you will be looking for something like a 2mm+ radius on both the adjuster and the matching boss.

I hope that is some help - sorry I can't be more specific with a definite answeras to design and material.
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