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  #11  
Old 15th February 2012, 09:25 AM
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looks to me like you have got way too much lock there.
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  #12  
Old 15th February 2012, 09:36 AM
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My thoughts exactly.
I'm guessing the MX5 steering arms must be a bit shorter than the Sierra ones. I've done some googling, and other people have had similar issues mating the MX5 uprights to the escort rack.

As a temporary bodge (likely to become a permanent solution knowing me!) I've added a 20mm wide bit of pipe to each end of the rack, held on with jubilee clips.

I've now got a much more sensible amount of steering travel, and no interference problems



Once the gaiters are back in place they're nicely hidden away from the prying eyes of IVA man (hopefully!).

Last edited by skov : 15th February 2012 at 11:16 AM.
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  #13  
Old 15th February 2012, 06:21 PM
Cyberbeej Cyberbeej is offline
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Having not looked at my car in a while, Something sticks in my brain about turning the trackrod end the other way on the ford hubs but not sure about the mx5 setup.
For good suspension design it should be almost horizontal when sitting in the straight ahead position.

Messing with the steering rack need to be done by a professional.

Just my thoughts but i could be wrong...........
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  #14  
Old 15th February 2012, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberbeej View Post
Having not looked at my car in a while, Something sticks in my brain about turning the trackrod end the other way on the ford hubs but not sure about the mx5 setup.
Surely the ball joints wouldn't go in the other way round as the taper would go the wrong way?
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  #15  
Old 16th February 2012, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skov View Post
Surely the ball joints wouldn't go in the other way round as the taper would go the wrong way?
Correct.

TT
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  #16  
Old 16th February 2012, 06:11 PM
Cyberbeej Cyberbeej is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skov View Post
Surely the ball joints wouldn't go in the other way round as the taper would go the wrong way?
True but that can be sorted, surely you want the best angles for the handling to be good?
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  #17  
Old 18th February 2012, 05:26 PM
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im with ash on this one way too much lock your not going to use unless its a london taxi it and without looking at one in the flesh its hard to see whats wrong. could get some body contact too.
moveing the rack forward/back/up/down may help as if your rack and track rods are too inline with the TRE pivot points could be a problem also look at akerman angles(both wheels folowing athe right arc in a corner).
isnt a std escort rack abit too long on a std ford based car?
a nylon bump stop(last resort) will need to one solid ring you dont want bits breaking and floating around in the ends of your rack jamming it up trust me!
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  #18  
Old 18th February 2012, 05:28 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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thinking about it the effective length of the arm on the hub shorter on a mazda unit?
and the postioning of the rack the same as a ford base car?
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  #19  
Old 20th April 2013, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skov View Post

As a temporary bodge (likely to become a permanent solution knowing me!) I've added a 20mm wide bit of pipe to each end of the rack, held on with jubilee clips.


DON'T DO THIS!!!

Sorry, that was a really bad idea!!!
I had a peek at them today and the jubilee clips have taken quite a battering and come loose...

I've removed them and ordered a couple of shaft clamp collars to replace them (RS Compenents part number 691-8124):



I'll let you know how I get on...
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  #20  
Old 20th April 2013, 01:22 PM
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You would be amazed at the amount of force applied to those stops at full lock.

I'm looking at this myself at the moment and taking into account the amount of bump steer effect I'm seeing I think I'm going to shorten the rack, 2 birds one stone and all that.

Cheers
Stot
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