Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Announcements
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 27th March 2016, 10:13 PM
Ianr Ianr is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 249
Default

the MX5 is very easy to strip if you take the body off. can't remember exactly but its only a few bolts front and rear and you can lift the shell off. Makes it very easy to get at all the bits you want. the shell has a lot of useful bits, wiring loom, ECU etc so label everything as you take it apart, its a pain to work out what goes where afterwards. Good luck and enjoy it!
__________________
My build blog here http://ianhaynes20.wordpress.com
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 28th March 2016, 07:45 AM
Richard Dryden Richard Dryden is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Murton, Durham
Posts: 126
Thumbs up good luck

Welcome, good luck and enjoy it.
__________________
Richard

Just keep going we will get there in the end.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 5th April 2016, 05:55 PM
Dave F's Avatar
Dave F Dave F is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wakefield
Posts: 124
Default Progress today

Well been busy today,
1. I’ve ordered my chassis, Phil you should have my order.
2. I started stripping my donor, Got the whole loom out, The loom didn’t worry me as I like to think I’m quite good at electrics, it worries me now, there’s a bloody lot of it and some of it needs rewiring, that’s in a box in the back of the garage and I’m going down the ‘out of sight out of mind’ route till I decide to grow a pair and tackle it.
Steering column is out and I’ve disconnected most of the things around the engine, managed to snap my breaker bar trying to crack off one of the rear hub nuts, so ordered another and all on hold till that comes, a bonus was brand new hubs on the front so no need to replace them. All that’s left to do before lifting the body off is cut the break lines, disconnect the clutch, undo all the nuts/bolts holding the PPF to the shell and I’m away, that should be all done in the next few days.

Now for the questions:
1. Do I need the break servo?
2. Do I use the Pedals?
3. Do I just cut the break lines as I’m not using them or shall I disconnect properly?
4. How do I drain the petrol out of the tank, probably about £10's worth in it?
5. Any further advice?
__________________
God loves a trier

Actual cost so far = Have chosen to stop counting incase I incriminate myself -
Cost ive told the wife = A hell of a lot less than I have spent. -

Last edited by Dave F : 5th April 2016 at 06:01 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 5th April 2016, 06:19 PM
vmax1974's Avatar
vmax1974 vmax1974 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Teesside
Posts: 1,141
Default

1 no just the cylinder and reservoir
2 no not at all keep any clevises they may come in handy
3 just cut them off
4 I just syphoned it out after taking the top off
5 erm......apply heat to the rear hubs and try and break off the rear lower outer long nut cause bet what you like at least one is siezed solid

Last edited by vmax1974 : 5th April 2016 at 06:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 5th April 2016, 08:53 PM
Dave F's Avatar
Dave F Dave F is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wakefield
Posts: 124
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vmax1974 View Post
1 no just the cylinder and reservoir
2 no not at all keep any clevises they may come in handy
3 just cut them off
4 I just syphoned it out after taking the top off
5 erm......apply heat to the rear hubs and try and break off the rear lower outer long nut cause bet what you like at least one is siezed solid
Thanks Vmax, I will bin the servo and pedals then. All the nuts and bolts have come off very easly so far so the law of sod dictates the last one will be siezed solid and will take hours to get off.

On another note Vmax, I have just won your bonnet on eBay. A little premature I know but as my finances are limited my body work will be made up of seconds so I will snap them up as and when they come available.
__________________
God loves a trier

Actual cost so far = Have chosen to stop counting incase I incriminate myself -
Cost ive told the wife = A hell of a lot less than I have spent. -
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11th April 2016, 03:49 PM
Dave F's Avatar
Dave F Dave F is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wakefield
Posts: 124
Default Body Off

Body is off the donor and the rear end is dismantled, front uprights off and rest of loom, all that s left now is to get the engine off the front sub frame and that will be it done.
Could do with some advice on getting the rear half shafts out of the hub, I was all smug because the infamous bottom hub bolts came off with nothing more than a 750mm breaker bar and some WD40 but I can’t get the half shafts out of the hub, I wacked it good and proper and neither budged, I have removed the whole upright and tuned it up and filled the void with WD40, going to keep topping it up and hopefully that will do the trick.

http://s765.photobucket.com/user/dav...tml?sort=3&o=2

http://s765.photobucket.com/user/dav...tml?sort=3&o=0
__________________
God loves a trier

Actual cost so far = Have chosen to stop counting incase I incriminate myself -
Cost ive told the wife = A hell of a lot less than I have spent. -
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 13th April 2016, 08:26 AM
twinturbo's Avatar
twinturbo twinturbo is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 4,389
Default

Check the condition of the crankshaft nose and pulley they are a common fault on the early engines.

TT
__________________
You only get a woosh with a dump valve

Build Thread


Man Cave Mantiques



Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle




Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 13th April 2016, 09:06 AM
Ianr Ianr is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 249
Default

I have used the servo and pedals on mine. I cut a section of bulkhead out around the throttle, brake clutch area and welded it to my car making a box frame around it all for support, all seems to work well.
__________________
My build blog here http://ianhaynes20.wordpress.com
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 13th April 2016, 09:41 AM
Dave F's Avatar
Dave F Dave F is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wakefield
Posts: 124
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinturbo View Post
Check the condition of the crankshaft nose and pulley they are a common fault on the early engines.

TT
I think it is OK as it is the long nose engine but will check it when I strip it back
__________________
God loves a trier

Actual cost so far = Have chosen to stop counting incase I incriminate myself -
Cost ive told the wife = A hell of a lot less than I have spent. -
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 13th April 2016, 09:44 AM
Dave F's Avatar
Dave F Dave F is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Wakefield
Posts: 124
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ianr View Post
I have used the servo and pedals on mine. I cut a section of bulkhead out around the throttle, brake clutch area and welded it to my car making a box frame around it all for support, all seems to work well.
My shell has gone now so can't cut anything out, I did see a car, yours I believe, with the servo so have kept it to see if I can get it to fit, kind of like the idea of having good brakes but I'm not even sure if it's needed.
__________________
God loves a trier

Actual cost so far = Have chosen to stop counting incase I incriminate myself -
Cost ive told the wife = A hell of a lot less than I have spent. -
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.