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  #31  
Old 10th July 2012, 10:19 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Hadn't considered IVA man Johno. The Dome headed bolts have normal nuts, they're for atatching the roll-bar to Cp3/4. Hoping the rounded edges will get arung the projections/radius issues without needing plastic caps.

Here's a pic:


Its around 30mm long and threaded along the entire length. Will this keep Mr IVA happy? Do they need to be grade 8.8 on the roll bar or will standard be OK?
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  #32  
Old 10th July 2012, 10:27 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Anyhoo, on with todays proress:

Had the day off to visit dentist this morning (and yesterday off giving blood!) so made up most of the remaining chassis plates:

All done today! Holes in Cp6 aren't as large as stated in the plans (done with an angry grinder) but should still be plenty big enough for a socket to pass through.

Spent Sunday pressure washing the new build area, so now properly moved from this:

To this:
[
With the old shed still being used for some starage and drilling etc.
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  #33  
Old 10th July 2012, 10:34 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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4 picture rule!
One mistake made today:

Cp9: made two the same instead of one mirrored, will have to make another when I get the chance!

Also: Thanks for the kind remarks guys, (them as've said anything ) always apreciated.

And: Keep forgetting to say, as long as the admin's don't change anything, I now have a Master's in Mechanical Engineering with merit. So if I c*ck up I know how to blame it on someone else
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  #34  
Old 10th July 2012, 11:26 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Hi Oscar

I,m following your build & enjoy seeing your progress, & as Johno has said...its looking great so don,t worry about lack of responses, keep cracking with the nice work you are doing

If in doubt on anything then ask away, the members on here are great & always help with constructive advice when requested or if something is seen that "might" not be right etc

With regard the bolts holding the roll bar.... I think its common practice from other builds going thru the IVA process that it appears most ( if not all ) testers like to see the 8.8 stamp on something so safety critical, said politely...your choice but for the sake of "peace of mind" I,ve used 16 bolts of 8.8 grade to secure my roll bar / back stays .

One question ....before you get too far into the build....are you intending fitting a GRP or ALI rear tub ? ( from the parts/plates that you have made yesterday) I presume you intend to fit an Ali tub?

Keep up the great work

AND...A huge CONGRATULATIONS on your Masters Degree, nice one .

cheers
andy
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Last edited by HandyAndy : 10th July 2012 at 11:41 PM.
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  #35  
Old 11th July 2012, 12:16 AM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Cheers Andy, any advice (or congrats!) gratefully recieved!

Plan is to go for the Ali rear, no idea if theres a cost advantage, I just like the idea of trying to make as many of the parts myself as possible.

One thing I will be buying at some point (not saying who from yet ) will bea set of rear uprights. Dont like the idea of trying to cut/weld/align something that bulky and critical.

Re bolts: might go for 8.8 bolts for Iva then, maybe see if I can get some 8.8 dome heads? (trying to avoid plastic caps somewhere so prominent!)

One thing I wanted to ask; I noticed on another build (looked back and can't find who's) a different lower support for the steering column: bearing out on bars instead of supported by the bulkhead plate.
Was this for a specific reason or simply an individuals adaptation?

Edit: Also, what size should the slots in CP15 be for the handbrake cable? Want to get them cut before I weld on the rear end.
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Last edited by Oscar : 11th July 2012 at 12:28 AM.
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  #36  
Old 11th July 2012, 12:24 PM
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Bonzo Bonzo is offline
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Cool Cool build thred

Hi oscar

Just caught up with your build thread.

Looks as if you have made a great start on your build.

With reference to the steering support bearing fitted to the bulkhead.
I think you will find details of that in AshG's build albums. ( Should find a link to that via his profile )

The slots in the CP plate that you mention only need to be wide enough to feed the bare section of the hanbrake cable through. ( It makes life a lot easier & no need to cut the cable in that area )

At a guess a 3-5mm wide slot should be plenty, if in doubt, measure the thickness of the bare section of a handbrake cable & use that as a guide.

One thing I would note.
I noticed that you may have made your steering rack support out of cold bent strip steel ?

Just be aware that strip steel can vary in quality.
I have seen this stuff fracture when cold bent .

Being as it is a critical part of the build, personaly I would have a close look at the bends for stress fractures.

Probably me just fussing about nothing though
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  #37  
Old 11th July 2012, 08:30 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Cheers for the info Bonzo, will try and get that cut tonight allong with some other cleaning jobs.

The steel strip should be fairly decent, I managed to "Acquire" it from my uni! Didn't notice any fractures whilst bending and the curves are quite large, but you're right it was cold bent. I"ll add a close inspection to my list for this eve

Re. the bearing, the one I noticed was on some supports welded on the drivers side of the top rail. Not in the bulkhead. Had a look on AshG's posts and couldn't find a build thread. And his photo account showed the standard setup on the photos I saw. Any ideas?
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Last edited by Oscar : 11th July 2012 at 08:32 PM.
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  #38  
Old 13th July 2012, 10:25 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Found the bearing setup! It's Tateys build:
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showt...t=2736&page=14
No completely clear picture but definitely a different arrangement. Not too dificult to copy, just wondering if there are advantages/disadvantages?

Also, had a look at the bent strip, no obvious signs of stress fatigue; slight evidence of poissons deformation and stress distortion but no signs of crack propogation or other surface defects that would be detrimental to the structural rigidity of the part.

I feel the need to speak in big words now I have a fancy piece of paper

Translation: can't see any damage.

Is it worth applying some heat to initiate grain normalisation, or just assume it'll be strong (not much stress aplied during use anyway)?

Question Time (again):
Would there be any problem with welding ends on the chassis tubes that're open? Have others been doing this?
Ordered my seatbelt mount nuts (for cp18?) off fleabay, nylocs arrived, welded on anyway. Nyloc melted. Would use threadlock on bolts. Problem with IVA?
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  #39  
Old 13th July 2012, 11:09 PM
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Johno Johno is offline
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Hi Oscar,
You're really getting into the swing of things now.....
Capping the end of chassis tubes is fine (stops the ingress of water). I TIG welded end caps to all my open chassis tubes which were open to the elements.
By what you are saying you have welded nylocs to the seat/harness plates.
To be honest that's not a good idea. IMO..
The reason being,

1, You don't need a nyloc nut as harness/seat belt bolts have a shoulder on the bolt to stop the bolt being tightened onto the harness/seat belt bracket. This way it allows the bracket to swivel on the bolt.

2, It doesn't look good to Mr IVA man (big gap where the nylon used to be if you get my drift)...

A standard nut welded to a plate will be fine for this. Just take a photo of the bolt with applied "Thread lock" for the "Men In White Coats" just to keep them happy....

The same applies throughout the build, for instance if you have to grind a weld off on a critical area ie.. harness point plates to transmission tunnel box section (for flush fitting of ally panels) make sure you have prepped the edge of the plate for the weld to be ground off this will show them you know what you are doing so to speak.

Johno
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  #40  
Old 15th July 2012, 11:33 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Right, progress of a sort.

Have sorted out the nyloc problem, chopped out the empty part where the nylon used to be leaving standard size nuts behind.

Having some problems positioning the SW's (see other thread) and have now tacked Cp16 in place. Havn't added the angled section yet as I'm not sure which route to go yet regarding bearing/support in that area.
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