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  #11  
Old 12th September 2016, 08:13 PM
CarlW CarlW is offline
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Hi Guys,

Guess there must be different bell housings and drive shafts etc.
As you can see, my engine is a long way off the bulkhead, its about 100mm away.
The model is about 1mm acurate to the parts all measured.
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  #12  
Old 13th September 2016, 09:25 AM
TheArf TheArf is offline
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I've got a pinto in mine and the gear stick is behind that cross member that you show, don't forget, your dash board also comes into that area and you could end up fouling on it, as most dashboards slope backwards and not straight down

Arfon
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  #13  
Old 13th September 2016, 09:44 AM
CarlW CarlW is offline
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It wont go any further back than it is as that's the length of the prop shaft at its absolute minimum.
The diff, prop shaft, transmission and engine all came out of a Locost chassis and seemed to fit no issue?
Worse case I will have to extend the gear stick a little but looks like we are talking of around 50mm which I think wouldn't be noticeable.

Other than that, there must be different lengths of prop shafts?
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  #14  
Old 13th September 2016, 11:26 AM
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voucht voucht is offline
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To second Arf, to me, it is also clear that on your CAD drawings, the gear stick will definitely interfere with the dashboard.

A dashboard with the central part going all the way down to the transmission tunnel will join it on the cross tube which is just behind (to the back) of your gear stick, on the CAD drawings (tube TT5 in the book).

2014-09-07_15-00-08 by Sylvain ROIG, sur Flickr

2015-05-04_08-09-50 by Sylvain ROIG, sur Flickr

Perhaps it is because the complete transmission comes from a Locost, but, looking at the position of the gearbox mount plates as well, it looks to me that the propshaft is too long and the engine/gearbox are much more to the front as "normal" builds (but are there "normal" builds ? )

Rally Design sells Type 9 Gearlever Turret Extension to place the gear stick backwards. If you keep this setting, I'm pretty sure you'll need one :http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...ducts_id=13487

But I would rather go with a shorter propshaft, and move engine/gearbox to the back.Of course, it is just my humble opinion
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  #15  
Old 13th September 2016, 05:16 PM
NeilW NeilW is offline
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If you look on my thread, pics of the chassis in black you will see the position I had the Zetec/type 9 mounting plates. My gearbox mount was much further toward the rear than the cad pics attached. I would also suggest moving engine further toward rear rather than needing additional equipments to compensate, especially at such early stage.
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  #16  
Old 13th September 2016, 09:04 PM
CarlW CarlW is offline
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Hi Guys,

How does this look. Shortened prop shaft and 10 mm clearance between chassis cross memeber and theremostat housing etc.
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  #17  
Old 14th September 2016, 06:44 PM
garyt garyt is offline
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that looks a lot better the gear lever is now in the same place as mine and it suits me !! also mine isn't canted rearwards
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  #18  
Old 15th September 2016, 01:13 PM
TheArf TheArf is offline
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That looks spot on there mate, I had a prop made at dunning and fairbanks, excellent service, value for money and peace of mind that it was professionally made and balanced when you think of the rpm that it is spinning at and it is right next to you with just a thin piece ally sheet to protect you.

Arfon
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  #19  
Old 16th September 2016, 08:15 AM
CarlW CarlW is offline
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Great stuff guys!


Just need the chassis to arrive!
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  #20  
Old 16th September 2016, 09:45 AM
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voucht voucht is offline
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Looks perfect to me too

I also got my propshaft from D&F, excellent stuff, helpful people, good service etc. Mine needed an adaptor to fit the MT75 tripod flange, and they explained me and made the part for me. That is definitely an investment I don't regret at all!
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