Ally sump welding quote......

[will_08]

Your right Baz, if its the initial start up (rush current) that is tripping your MCB, putting another type in will help 'B' is the standard domestically, but you can buy 'C's or 'D's of the same current rating of course.

Will

[Eternal]

Well i have all the rods required and also some nice bits of ally that can be made into plugs. I will pop over to toolstation tomorrow and pick one of those adapters up. Will give it a bash myself if i can... not done any ally work yet but need to learn as i have soooooooo much to weld/fab. Sump, cam covers, waterblock, IAC valve adapter, throttle body adapter and a inlet plenum.

One thing i could really do with some help on at some point is the correct settings to use on the R-Tech welder for ally/cast ally.
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/weldi...-Tech_Tig201WC is the fella i have atm. Also below is a pic of the front pannel.

[TheArf]

You could always buy a three pin plug to blue plug adaptor from a caravan centre or Argos for around £5 to £6 thats what I did, I doubt if you could but the bits for what they charge

[Tilly819]

hi there

i also have the Rtech 200Amp acdc tig set, it will run on a 13 amp supply providing you dont go much above 150-160 amp welding current

the machine only needs the full 16A when you are welding up at the 170-200Amp range

This is what the R tech Tech guys told me since when i bought mine i did not have a 16A supply but do now.

hope this helps...

also a mornings work for a skilled man allowing for overheads 200 quid is about right, IIRC when i go on site the company i work for charges approximately £500 a day for my time im not trying to brag or anything just put things into perspective.

however i would just get you set out and put a 13amp plug on the end of the wire lol

tilly


EDIT: just noticed you saying you havnt done much ally welding, hope you dont mind me giving you one very important tip, make sure its spotlessly clean and that you remove ALL of the oxide layer in the welding area ally oxide melts at about 3X time temp of ally and if it isnt removed what happens is you arc up and the inside of the metal melts before the outside, the the outside melts and the whole lot just disappears.

tilly

[mikemph]

I can give it a quick once over in the sand blaster, then in the degreasing tank to get it squeeky clean!!!

Originally Posted by Eternal

sweet stuff i will find out how much it will cost to send. Its going to need a hell of a clean as well at some point as its full of ally dust/grit from where i have been chopping lol. Thats a job im not looking forward to do!

[chriseyj]

Hi mikemph how much would you charge to higher my zx9r sump? I've been toying with the idea of using my mig and ally wire but heard its pretty useless. Think an inch is removed from the small area that hangs down and a plate welded over it, plus the sump plug moving to the side. Looks simple, have a pic from locost builders.
Cheers chris

[AshG]

you will only need about 120-130amps to tig that up. i could do it for you if you can wait a few weeks for me to get my work load down a bit. that is an hours work max including making the plugs

[mikemph]

About £50..... like Ash said it about an hours work plus a materials. As above I would use dye penetration to check for leaks before I return it.

If you send me the pics with the sump that would be easiest for me as I will be doing it at work and do have access to forums to look at pics.


Getting pretty good at welding now, been working along side our coded welders at work for the last couple of years, learning from the masters so to speak lol

[mikemph]

Originally Posted by Eternal

Well i have all the rods required and also some nice bits of ally that can be made into plugs. I will pop over to toolstation tomorrow and pick one of those adapters up. Will give it a bash myself if i can... not done any ally work yet but need to learn as i have soooooooo much to weld/fab. Sump, cam covers, waterblock, IAC valve adapter, throttle body adapter and a inlet plenum.

One thing i could really do with some help on at some point is the correct settings to use on the R-Tech welder for ally/cast ally.
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/weldi...-Tech_Tig201WC is the fella i have atm. Also below is a pic of the front pannel.

*current depending on thickness but needs to AC
*balance around 50% depends on how clean material is
*You could use pulse to help penetration and keep the heat to min
*slope up and down maybe couple of seconds


It really is a case of learning the basics and learn what work for you

[baz-r]

Originally Posted by AshG

you will only need about 120-130amps to tig that up. i could do it for you if you can wait a few weeks for me to get my work load down a bit. that is an hours work max including making the plugs

maybe if its preheated my zetec sump i welded at 140-180a 20% cleaning but my tig is fixed freq @ 75Hz (i think)

ac tig settings are quiet simple and you have to bare in mind the propertys of ally it melts at a lower temp but conducts heat realy well and forms an oxide layer on the serface in air but if yor weld pool runs out of all oxygen you get a thing called arc flutter (moving the arc will help)

Amps = total power you will need a loads more than dc on steel and also (effected by ballance) the work piece soaks up heat real well on ally so you are loosing power via heat conduction and reversed current
ballance or +/- = this is the amount of ratio between welding (normal) and inverted (cleaning) curent. this is also a % of heat direction too much cleaning and it burns out your tungsten not enough and you will have poor penitration and poor weld pool formation.
another effect this has is it changes the width of the weld pool so more cleaning makes it shallow and wide less deep and narrow.
Freq/Hz = most low end units are fixed but now more common. this will effect the depth/width of the weld pool mainly.

remeber everyone personalises thair own way of setup but a few basics will need to be applyed

high pureity argon is a must (99%) at 10Lpm,large cup , clean area to be welded (avoid grinding or steel contamination) i find stainless wire brushes are good and red scotchbright pads just befor welding, blunt point on a sutable tungsten (i use gold ones for eveything) 2.4 or 3.2 (bigger than dc per amp),
if you have foot control use it its ideal for AC as as everything heats up you can reduce your amps
start with 25-30% cleaning/ballance (showen in all sorts of ways)
60-100Hz freq
pulse off, up and down slope are not too importent
1 sec pre and 2 post gas
2.4mm 4043 filler for most cast allys 5356 for sheet

hope that helps