The Rover V8

[tr7v8]

Originally Posted by Chris Gibbs

Did I say that?

No, the chassis should be ok for the Rover engine.

The bit about the pinto and the Rover V8 being the same weight is a bit of an urban myth, probably the fault of the internet.

The rover block weighs a little less than a pinto engine, which means that the dressed V8 is 25kg or so heavier than the pinto. It's still a light engine for it's power.

The V8 gets lighter and the pinto gets heavier everytime I hear this yarn, to the point that someone told me that the Rover engine was "about two thirds of the weight of a pinto" yes it's got a lighter block but a huge crankshaft, 8 pistons and 8 con rods do weigh something!

Cheers

Chris

The Rover uses thin wall casting technologies so is light even for an all alloy engine. A quick google gives the Rover at 320Lb & the Pinto at between 370-400Lb.
If you dump the CI manifolds on both which you would do for a kit then the difference is is significant.
The lumpy bit of the V8 is the flywheel which mine had 3kG hacked off of & probably could have lost more.

[NigelC]

Hi

I think the V8 is a great idea.

I am going down the track of using a Rover V8 as well. It was suggested to me that perhaps I should use 50x25x1.6 for the top and bottom rails as this will add significant strength to the chassis, and give a little more height to fit the V8 into. In New Zealand we have to go through a low volume vehicle certification process, and the certifiers are generally very helpful and provide little gems like this.

Go for the V8

Cheers
Nigel

Might pay to up the gauge of the lower rails as well perhaps to 14swg?

[shadowcaster]

I was thinking it would be a good idea to add a bit of extra strength in those areas.

[flyerncle]

Input from the boss might be helpfull if you are adding metal here and there or am I in for more flack Mr G ?

After all I would think it was CAD drawn and all stresses etc worked out with good margin for the "Human factor" built in.

Just a thought....

[snapper]

You may need bigger wheels or a taller diff to make use of the lower revs but higher torque

[V8 Roadster]

The rover V8 fits a treat! as for weight the heads and block are aluminium most of the serious weight is in the crank and gearbox giving a low centre of gravity!
To fit the engine with rover manual sd1 gearbox the top bulkhead box section needs to be moved back approx 1 1/2", the vertical box section on the drivers side is moved in again approx 1 1/2" this nescessitates altering the angle of the bend of the lower rail (box section) on this side. This still leaves ample room for a pedal box to be made up.
The reason for moving the engine back is to provide clearance for steering shaft to steering rack, also you will need to fit a Seirra Cosworth 2wd (short) oil filter which is a direct fitment to the rover v8.
This should also improve handling, with this set up i have got a good 4" ground clearence from the sump.
Drivetrain wise i have used the Cosworth 2wd 7 1/2" diff, drive shafts and hubs for use of rear discs.

[Jimbob]

Hi Shadowcaster. I'm in the process of fitting an RV8 to mine..

It might be a little heavier sure... But not much, at least the blockis short and will sit back.

The worst that will happen is that you'll end up with nearly 200 torquey hp and an awsome sound. (with two exhausts!)


Come on man, what are you waiting for?

[mr henderson]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Go for it, I wouldn't put an old auto box in though, I would almost guarantee you'll love the dropping a cog to overtake and the ability to hold the power round the corners etc.

Auto boxes can change down too!

AFAIAC there is only one problem with the auto boxes easily available for RV8s is that they don't usually have an overdrive gear. The four speed boxes fitted to later Range Rovers are no good for us because of the 4WD transfer box that is incorporated.

So, if anyone fancies an auto box on an RV8 then they will want to go for the tallest ratio diff they can get.

The later SD1 auto box is the one to go for, drive that gently in top, then when you want to overtake, just boot it. The box will sense the drop in vacuum and change down (very quickly) and the results will be very acceptable

Can't beat a bit of gear stirring by hand though...