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  #51  
Old 24th October 2009, 08:07 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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all credit to you Tatey, when i need help on my cvh i know where to call

glad you are enjoying yourself

shorty
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  #52  
Old 24th October 2009, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post
all credit to you Tatey, when i need help on my cvh i know where to call
glad you are enjoying yourself

shorty
Atleast i'll finally be able to offer my 'skill' set to you, instead of the other way around
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  #53  
Old 6th December 2009, 11:28 AM
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Well i decided that i might as well continue stripping down the head today, all thats needed doing was to take the camshaft pulley off, remove the camshaft and take the valves out. I managed to get the camshaft pulley off by making a tool to stop the pulley from rotating and a bit of force from mr breaker bar.

I've taken out the little plate which stops the camshaft from coming out, but now I'm at a loss as to how to remove the camshaft oil seal. I don't want to destroy anything when trying to remove it in order to get the camshaft out.

So does anyone have an idea as to how to remove it?

Cheers
Simon
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  #54  
Old 6th December 2009, 12:57 PM
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Personally, I normally prise oil seals out with a large flat bladed screwdriver ( Gently !! )

It'll FUBAR the seal but should not be a problem as a new seal will come with the headgasket set, in any event, should be replaced as a matter of course

If you don't feel that confident !!, gently tap the camshaft forward a little & the oil seal should come out with it .

The CVH cam can be a little bit of a devil to get out once the cam is clear of the bearing journals.
Just be patient, keep the cam level & square to ensure it will pass through the next set of journals without snagging, ( Probaly need to rotate the cam a little too ) .

One last thing, never tap or hit the cam with anything solid, use a copper or plastic mallett.
If you don't have one, a small piece of hardwood used as a drift will do no damage
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  #55  
Old 6th December 2009, 01:49 PM
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Cheers for the tips bonzo. I managed to get it out using a flat headed screwdriver and the camshaft came out with no issues, its now stored in a carboard box with my crankshaft and pistons. The only jobs i've got to do now are:

Remove the crankshaft pulley so i can remove the oil seal
Remove the valves (im planning on buying a g-clamp and modifying it to be used as a valve removal tool)

Then once all of that is done i can start cleaning up all of the parts and then wait until i have the funds to buy the following parts:

Piston rings
Headgasket set
Big end bearings (i dont think ill be buying main bearings at the moment as flyerncle said they looked fine, where as the big end bearings are through to the copper)
Get the head skimmed
Paint the block
Oil filter
Spark plugs
Thermostat

Im just trying to find the best price for the big end bearings now, any ideas? I've tried ebay but there dont seem to be many, enginestuff.co.uk seems to be the cheaspest, but i recon i might be able to find a better price.
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  #56  
Old 6th December 2009, 08:42 PM
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Best advice is take crank with bearings to engine specialist like Engine services at Dunston (john) and get him to measure it and they can supply the bearings etc,it may be a good bet at this time to overhaul it completely even though it may cost a fair bit its good policy at this stage,last time I asked him all the bits and pieces were about £200.
As Bonzo says its not worth messing about with oil seals as they come in the head set and dont forget the valve seals.
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  #57  
Old 6th December 2009, 11:07 PM
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Is that £200 for the overhall of the camshaft with piston rings, big end bearings etc? As at the moment im looking at around £150 for everything to recondition the engine.
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  #58  
Old 7th December 2009, 05:01 PM
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It was for the parts only,full set of shells,thrusts,and rings and gaskets,I personally will replace the core plugs as they will be dry and possibly rotten on the inside and for the hassle they will cause if leaking it's not worth it.
What I meant was if you got to see an engine specialist they can measure the crank etc and advise if it is ok or in need of a regrind and like I said previously John does all our engine stuff,maybe not the cheapest but never had any probs with him.
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  #59  
Old 7th December 2009, 05:55 PM
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Cheers for that Paul. How much do they normally charge for just checking the crankshaft and camshaft?

I think i'll get it all checked over before i start buying components in case it turns out its a dud and ends up being a money pit.
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  #60  
Old 8th December 2009, 03:45 PM
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Well i decided to shove my pistons in the 'parts washer' earlier on, they got rid of all of the grime, but the majority of the carbon on the top still remained, but a bit of scotch bright has sorted it out, i've still got 1 more to do, but the other 3 are looking like new. If i manage to get hold of a camera i'll take a picture of them.

Does anyone know how long the pistons might remain in this condition once i manage to get the engine fired up for the first time?
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