Front top wishbone

[Wgroove]

Hi all !
I'm working on the front upper wishbone for the moment. The book says you need a 30mm diameter tube with M18 inside to fit the draglink.
I'm gonna use the camberadjuster. Did you use for this also 30mm diameter tube ? Does anyone have some pictures from his wishbone build ?

Thanks,

Wim

[davidimurray]

I presume you are going to use steel camber adjusters? If you have a look through my gallery 2 below, you should be able to see some pics of the stepped sleeves and adjusters I made (sorry cannot get on facebook at work to get the exact pics).

[Wgroove]

I'm gonna use the adjusters i bought from rally design.
Check the attachment. I don't think they're made from steel.
How long and wich diameter did you use to make the sleeves ?

Wim

[mr henderson]

I'm sure I read somewhere recently about alloy adjusters being prone to the threads stripping. Might be wrong, but I would be dubious about using them. I think the adjusters themselves are an excellent idea, just not too keen on the aluminium alloy based ones.

[RAYLEE29]

Ash G had a close escape when when one of his adjusters let go so be careful if using ally ones Ive made my own ally ones but may make steel ones to be safer my ally ones are definately stronger than the R D ones as i beefed them up especially at the stress point.
Ray

[davidimurray]

As mentioned Ash did have a failure of one of these adjusters on his car. The adjuster broke at the point where the head joined the body. I did some quick sums at the time and due to the angled bush tube (compared to the straight ones on a locost) the camber adjuster see a higher load which could be a contributory factor to the failure. for more info see my previous post - http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showp...9&postcount=32

I would reccomend that unless you plan to use something like 7075 alloy, make a steel set. If you make bush tubes it is also a good idea to make stepped ones that would prevent the adjuster being pulled out in the event of a failure.

[Wgroove]

Originally Posted by davidimurray

As mentioned Ash did have a failure of one of these adjusters on his car. The adjuster broke at the point where the head joined the body. I did some quick sums at the time and due to the angled bush tube (compared to the straight ones on a locost) the camber adjuster see a higher load which could be a contributory factor to the failure. for more info see my previous post - http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showp...9&postcount=32

I would reccomend that unless you plan to use something like 7075 alloy, make a steel set. If you make bush tubes it is also a good idea to make stepped ones that would prevent the adjuster being pulled out in the event of a failure.

Hi David,
yes i saw that thread from Ash a few weeks ago. I thought it was a once in a lifetime case... Maybe trying to make them in steel.
Since my english is not that perfect (i'm from Belgium), what do you mean by "stepped ones" ?
Greetz,

Wim

[flyerncle]

Wim.the outside end close to the wheel end of the adjuster shoud fit in a step in the fixed tube to stop it sliding out if there is a failure,by step we mean a "stop ".Placing a washer on the end would do the same job and make sure the adjuster is in compression and not tension.

[davidimurray]

Exactly as Flyerncle said. Here is a simple 3d drawing to show the idea

[Wgroove]

I get the picture ! Thank you all for helping me out !

Wim.