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  #1  
Old 29th March 2011, 10:31 PM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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Red face Doooohhhhh!!

I trial fitted some bits today and it s thrown up some little snags( snagettes for the French)

1. I welded in one of the diff carrier plates upside down--I know! I know! stupid or what? --Is there any reason why the diff mounting brackets shouldn't be welded in?

2When I inserted the drive shafts they slid in til about 30mm from the face of the rear uprights .When I pushed them up to the uprights it was as if pushing against a spring --is this ok?

3 I remember seeing a post asking for lengths for dummy struts but I cant find it .Please bear with me asking again.

4. The long bolts in the bottom of the rear upright foul the wheels and need a bit cutting off .How much thread should be left showing when they're tight ?

Thanks in advance

Adrian

PS On the up side I am on the brink of a rolling chassis Hope to post some pics soon.
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  #2  
Old 29th March 2011, 10:34 PM
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twinturbo twinturbo is offline
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have you built your rear bones to the revised design?

TT
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  #3  
Old 29th March 2011, 10:50 PM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinturbo View Post
have you built your rear bones to the revised design?

TT
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  #4  
Old 29th March 2011, 11:15 PM
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Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayjay View Post
I trial fitted some bits today and it s thrown up some little snags( snagettes for the French)

1. I welded in one of the diff carrier plates upside down--I know! I know! stupid or what? --Is there any reason why the diff mounting brackets shouldn't be welded in?

A. Weld the diff plates handed to match the chassis plates.

2. When I inserted the drive shafts they slid in til about 30mm from the face of the rear uprights .When I pushed them up to the uprights it was as if pushing against a spring --is this ok?

A. You might be trying to fight the CV joint gaiters, try removing steel ties and sliding the small ends further up the shaft and see if it's easier.

3. I remember seeing a post asking for lengths for dummy struts but I cant find it .Please bear with me asking again.

A. Basicly 325-300mm hole centres but you won't be able to set the ride height properly untill you have the coilovers mounted and the weight of the car sat on them.

4. The long bolts in the bottom of the rear upright foul the wheels and need a bit cutting off .How much thread should be left showing when they're tight ?

A. 2-3 threads showing should be enough and what size rims are you using?

Thanks in advance

Adrian

PS On the up side I am on the brink of a rolling chassis Hope to post some pics soon.
I hope this works like this I've not tryed to post an answer like this before.
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Last edited by Talonmotorsport : 29th March 2011 at 11:45 PM.
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  #5  
Old 29th March 2011, 11:43 PM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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thanks

I think you are bang on re springy shafts they turn freely with no noises when bolted up to the upright --great job by the way!

The wheels are 195/15 s --there is a fair length of thread which could be trimmed to gain clearance .

Diff brackets are already welded up --bought from mikemph --another great job(wish I could weld like that)
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Old 29th March 2011, 11:45 PM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianH View Post
I have push in shafts on the back of my car and they do push against springs within the cv joints.

If you look in the Sierra book you can see them in an exploded view. My wishbones were also revised design.

Cheers

Adrian
Thanks for that
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PS perhaps I should get the sierra manual!

Last edited by ayjay : 29th March 2011 at 11:49 PM. Reason: added PS
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  #7  
Old 30th March 2011, 05:36 AM
minicountryman1961 minicountryman1961 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayjay View Post

--Is there any reason why the diff mounting brackets shouldn't be welded in?

Thanks in advance

Adrian
Wouldn't it be easier to remove and replace the diff by unbolting the diff brackets from the frame, than by trying to get the diff back up in place and fit those bolts through the brackets and into the diff?
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Old 30th March 2011, 08:20 AM
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They are springy feeling Jay, as long as they don't come to a stop when you move the suspension up full travel they are okay.

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  #9  
Old 31st March 2011, 09:31 PM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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Thanks for the helpful comments

UPDATE

1 Happy with the drive shafts looks like there was no problem at all.

2 Cut a bit off the long lower sus bolts they now clear the wheel rim.

3 Dummy struts in progress

4 Just to clear up the confusion CP10 s are fully welded in place with the nearside one upside down.It will be a nightmare to grind out or it could be re drilled and the holes closed upwith weld. I reason it may be a lot easier to weld the the diff mount plates to the CPs unless there was a reason why I shouldn't. The diff mount brackets are also fully welded as per spec

Cheers

Adrian PS Any thoughts on welding up diff mounts as in 4?

Last edited by ayjay : 1st April 2011 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Add PS
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  #10  
Old 2nd April 2011, 08:52 PM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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Diff now fits properly. I managed to re drill the holes without smashing the drill bit(the new holes circumferences crossed the old holes )

Donor car gone --lifted off the drive today . I got a tenner from two Irish gentlemen. None of the scrap merchants were interested . Two years ago they'd have fought over it Anyway I only paid 200 for it and I kept some bits to try on e bay.

Bolted in the pedal box , Painted rear drums and back plates and cleared up the garage ready for the grand opening
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