#1
|
|||
|
|||
Engine Height
Hi Folks, can anybody tell me how far below the chassis rails the bottom of a pinto sump is on a standard build? I am fitting a 2.0 dohc and MT 75 and intend to use the position of the centre of the diff to determine the height of the engine / box. I am not sure at this point if I need to worry about modding the sump / bellhousing. I have a gut feel that it will give me about 4 - 4 1/2 inches ground clearance at the sump - anyone advise?
Thanks in advance, Enoch. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
PM Axle
he,s your man regarding fitting a Twinky his is in and he will share the pain with you cheers les g |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I used a DOHC sump on my RS2000 16v engine (same block). I had to cut around 30mm off the bottom of the sump, add and extension and baffle it, to make it suitable for fitting into the chassis. But I'm using a type 9 gearbox, because its much slimmer and better suited to the car.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks guys, I am just trying to judge it against the pinto that the car was designed for. I am thinking that it makes sense to modify the efi inlet manifold to the engine can sit 1 inch higher rather than chopping the bottom off the sump. I have communicated with Axle but am just considering a different approach.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I will be getting to this point soon, I,m sure someone posted pics of the DOHC installed, i will be going carbs route so the EFI can be junked. I lifted the motor in a couple of weeks back & first looks thought that the sump would be way low.
Is it just the case of lifting the engine & having a bit of angle on the shaft. Looking at the sump it is no lower than the bottom of the bellhousing so cant see how mods would work?? |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
That's the issue really, the sump bottom is level with the bell housing so modding the sump alone won't do anything. Having had a think about it what I think I need to know is - what is the distance between a bottom rail and the road when the car is at it's correct ride height? From that I think I can work everything else out.
Enoch. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
What was Axles take on the situation?
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Well he modded the sump, added a bearing for the steering column and fabricated a different bracket for the alternator. I don't want to mod my sump but rather want to look at modding the inlet manifold or making a new one that does not stick up above the cam covers. I also intend to look at either mounting the alternator on the other sied of the engine (provided I can do it without exhaust heat being an issue) or making a different engine mount so I don't have to fit an extra bearing for the steering column. PM me your email addy if you want and I will forward on the photos of Axle's arrangement so you can see what I mean.
Enoch |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Where is the alternator on a 8v DOHC? My Sierra workshop manual isn't to hand. On my 16v DOHC I put my alternator on the exhaust side, ditching all the PAS, tensioner and Air Con junk. Then I used the alternator and alternator bracket off a 1.8cvh and fitted that on, with the 6 rib pulley wheel off the original alternator. Fits a treat, loads of clearance.
edit : Oh I almost forgot, I made my own lower alternator bracket in the style of the book design, but to suit my engine etc |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Me Too
Hi Guys,
I'm going to encounter the same problem. Bog standard 2.0L DOHC 8v with MT75. Transmission tunnel edit shows how to adapt the chassis so the gearbox will clear, looking like the bellhousing will sit below the floorplan by about 25mm. I was hoping I could raise the engine a little & worry about top clearance nearer the time- modifying the bonnet as required. I didn't think this was going to be too much of a problem with the amendments. Now I'm a little worried |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|