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  #81  
Old 31st March 2013, 06:39 PM
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Still waiting for some replacement parts so that I can get it rolling and wheel it to and from my other garage but I got the steering hashed out.





The cast UJ from Rally Design is poor. The holes are not in the right position to stop the splined ends from pulling out. Ill try opening them up to allow a bigger bolt or buy the pressed steel version.

Cheers
Stot
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  #82  
Old 31st March 2013, 09:01 PM
will_08 will_08 is offline
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Looking good pal,

1 question the plate your steering column bearing is mounted to, is that still 1mm as per the book or have you beefed it up a bit?

I'm just about to tackle that bit is all.

Cheers Will
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  #83  
Old 31st March 2013, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will_08 View Post
1 question the plate your steering column bearing is mounted to, is that still 1mm as per the book or have you beefed it up a bit?
Its a 3mm piece, 1mm would flex like buggery under braking.

Cheers
Stot
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  #84  
Old 31st March 2013, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stot View Post
Its a 3mm piece, 1mm would flex like buggery under braking.
Do you plan to attach your master cylinder or the pedal pivot to it?
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  #85  
Old 31st March 2013, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alga View Post
Do you plan to attach your master cylinder or the pedal pivot to it?
I have made up a pedal box so it will bolt in like the book. The CP17 side panel is 1mm on mine. I wouldn't want to be bolting the pedal box to that.

Cheers
Stot
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  #86  
Old 1st April 2013, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stot View Post
I have made up a pedal box so it will bolt in like the book. The CP17 side panel is 1mm on mine. I wouldn't want to be bolting the pedal box to that.
Don't forget that the pedal box is also bolted to the floor, it's resting against the bottom chassis rail, and the MC is just a couple of millimetres above said rail. I used 1 mm plate as per book, and I think it's perfectly adequate. If you're unconvinced, 1.5 mm plate will definitely do the job, and 3 mm is just 1 kg of extra weight in the chassis.
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  #87  
Old 2nd April 2013, 08:41 PM
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Back to the dials...

I think the MX5 Nutz guy is stopping doing them as the emails went dry. So I did a little digging and found a guide on making them yourself, although the guide has been taken down now as people were stealing the guide writers designs.

Laser print a front, middle and back on acetate and paper.


Stick them together with a spray glue.


cut them out.

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Last edited by Stot : 2nd April 2013 at 08:50 PM.
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  #88  
Old 2nd April 2013, 08:44 PM
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Add holes for the screws and locators


Cut out the odometer window with a craft knife.


Draw round the inside of the window with a black sharpie to hide the white edge.


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  #89  
Old 2nd April 2013, 08:47 PM
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Don't forget to cut the middles out like I did.


This is how I popped off the old dial hands. levering against my fingers not the back of the dial.


As I changed where the 0 position was, I needed to remove the three tell tale lights so the whole tacho dial would illuminate.

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Last edited by Stot : 2nd April 2013 at 08:50 PM.
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  #90  
Old 2nd April 2013, 08:48 PM
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Put the dial hands back on.


Daylight


Night time


Came out nice I thought.

Cheers
Stot
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