Need a couple of chassis dimensions pls

[The V8 Files]

If anyone is around a completed chassis would you be kind enough to take a couple of approximate measurements please, measuring along TR1 the distance between U3 and U1 and also the distance between U1 and FF4.

Many thanks.

[robo]

from your mule its 690mm and the other is 255 at the bottom of the chassis and 175mm at the top cos it leans back for the rad.

Bob

[The V8 Files]

Originally Posted by robo

from your mule its 690mm and the other is 255 at the bottom of the chassis and 175mm at the top cos it leans back for the rad.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I had some 25mm x 38mm batten so I ripped it down to 25mm x 25mm and made a rough mock up of the bay, I'l rest the lump in there tomorrow and start to get an idea of how its going to fit in a standard chassis

[The V8 Files]

Right, a little demoralised, I new this was going to be a tight fit but its worse that I thought:

Front Right Sump and Alt pulley fouling.








Not sure about total height and width, I remember seeing somewhere recently a drawing showing bodywork clearances so will have to do some searching and research and then consider all my options.

Just found the diagram:

http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/attac...7&d=1265401544

I'm off to do some measuring up.

[K4KEV]

boy is that gonna make for some severe head scratching and gallons of tea/coffee/beer......and I mean all 3

[The V8 Files]

Whey aye Kev, Give ower y'a kiddin, Champion fit that head scratching? Tea? Coffee? Nah just give me the beer any day

Seriously, yeah I had my first proper wobble today when I thought what the F*** are you doing dude, your p*****g in the wind, living in cloud cuckoo etc.

Then I found the diagram I was was looking for with the scuttle clearances and alos looked back at Aerosams build pics, I spent about an hour with the tape measure and looking at things and possibly figured some ways forward.

With regards to the Alternator, its not easy to see from the pictures but its current mountings form part of the timing case so modifying that seems a bit extreme, however, on the offside of the engine the mount bracket also acted as a mounting for the AC compressor, this seems to be a little higher and also uses the 5 Rib 'rear' section' of the main pulley so if I can modify/fabricate a mounting and tensioner based in this area then hopefully I can gain some height and backwards location of the alternator.



With regards to the sump, it really is an odd shape and size and there are some gubbins inside which I really need to fully understand before going too much further, that said the good points are that there is plenty of space towards the rear of the sump to look at fabricating a different shape and being typically BMW and over engineered, the mounting bolts are centred at just 48mm apart, so if I can figure this out then there is a good chance of finding a solution.

There's a complete sump on the bay for £30 delivered, I'l get that and investigate with it first, I want to keep the engine complete so just in case I decide its a 'no go' then have have the M60 complete and untouched to sell.




Apart from that I gave it a pressure wash and mounted on the the engine stand and squeezed it into the man room, which despite the stand being rated at 350Kg seemed totally inadequate, I was particularly concerned with stressing the top rear casing mountings, so for tonight its propped up with a piece of wood and the trolley jack and tomorrow I'l get the crane in there, take the load off and fabricate some supports.

[robo]

I reckon most of the work is in the sump Bruce. That engine has a very deep skirt on the engine block so you could build a shallow sump full length and still have plenty of capacity. That would drop the thing right down and then you can have 25mm of engine under the car, despite how it looks now with all the clutter removed it will still probably fit within the standard bodywork. Beast Me likes but then I am sick anyway

Bob

[The V8 Files]

Looking at it the sump mod may not be too bad, the depth will be dictated by the oil pump/integrated pickup, there is an oil level sender in there and although its a 'nice to keep' it probably isn't essential, the only other bit to work around is the dip stick at the front but that should not be ok, the block face is wide and flat with regular fixings so should lend itself nicely to a modded sump, I'm looking forward to doing that at some point.

Note to self, keep all the ally parts from the donor to practice tigging with.




Apart from that I just spent a while sorting out the engine on the stand, I really wasn't happy with it so eventually took it off completely and reorganised all the rear brackets and added a couple of supports.

Its a little crude but functional, and also allows me to drop the sump off when I'm ready.

[robo]

I think the worst case scenario with that will be to junk the pump and go dry sump.You would grab at least 4" with one of those systems. loads of second hand dry sump stuff on the bay of thieves http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dry-sump-o...item27cca24f95 just thoughts.

Bob

[The V8 Files]

Originally Posted by robo

I think the worst case scenario with that will be to junk the pump and go dry sump.You would grab at least 4" with one of those systems. loads of second hand dry sump stuff on the bay of thieves http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dry-sump-o...item27cca24f95 just thoughts.

Bob

I fear you may be spot on Bob, I've been a little side tracked from it today as the chuffin boiler has packed up.

I think I'l remove the sump and alternator and then have another go in the wooden frame, its not perfectly accurate but should hopefully give an idea.

Bruce