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  #1  
Old 12th October 2009, 10:40 PM
andyuk697 andyuk697 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by londonsean69 View Post
If you are making the bushes - make the tubes

19mm round bar (stainless or mild steel, with SS being preferred ) centre drilled on the lathe to 12mm

Cut to length, and put a chamfer on the end to aid squeezing into the bushes
hmmm getting technical now lol

whats this oilon rod im looking at it looks very tempting

Andy
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  #2  
Old 12th October 2009, 10:47 PM
londonsean69 londonsean69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyuk697 View Post
hmmm getting technical now lol
Which bit of that was technical

Quote:
Originally Posted by andyuk697 View Post
whats this oilon rod im looking at it looks very tempting
Oilon is basically an oil (lubricant) impregnated nylon.

It is well used for bearings, but not necessarily bushes, which also have to absorb shocks.

A few on here are using 'rigid' plastics for their bushes. I have to admit to buying a set of PU bushes complete with tubes when my lathe was up the spout.

Nothing to do with the horrible stringy mess turning nylon seemed to make
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  #3  
Old 12th October 2009, 10:52 PM
andyuk697 andyuk697 is offline
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the drilling out the centre of the 19mm stainless iv never done anything like that before
ive made pens out of very hard acrylic before have to get them down to half a mm thick too! so the bushes shouldnt be a problem

Andy

Quote:
Originally Posted by londonsean69 View Post
Which bit of that was technical



Oilon is basically an oil (lubricant) impregnated nylon.

It is well used for bearings, but not necessarily bushes, which also have to absorb shocks.

A few on here are using 'rigid' plastics for their bushes. I have to admit to buying a set of PU bushes complete with tubes when my lathe was up the spout.

Nothing to do with the horrible stringy mess turning nylon seemed to make
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  #4  
Old 12th October 2009, 11:02 PM
londonsean69 londonsean69 is offline
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ok, what I have learned so far, from advice, books, tinterweb and advice, on drilling centrally.....

Get the work as centred in the chuck as you can - use a dti
Take light facing cuts on the end until you have a flat face
use a centre drill to bore a pilot hole (centre drills have a very thick shaft - bit like this - )
Start with a smallish drill, then work up in a couple of steps to just under finished size (say 11 or 11.5mm) use a 12mm drill to finish off
Use plenty of cutting fluid (I think I used 3mm 7mm 11mm then 12mm when doing parts for the rear uprights)

Stainless always seems harder to work than mild steel to me

Using progressively bigger drill bits gives the lathe an easier time.

Hope this helps

As for cutting speeds:
On the mini lathe - I used what sounded/felt right
On the myford - RPM is on slowest, feed is on finest - I just vary the depth of cut
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Old 13th October 2009, 05:07 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Stainless is a dog to drill, I got some scrap rod and tried it and just burned drill after drill even with cutting fliuid/oil, steel is much easier and given the mileage the car will do does it really matter.
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Old 13th October 2009, 06:07 PM
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3GE Components 3GE Components is offline
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The problem with stainless is that it has a work hardened surface that you need to get under, if you let the drill run slow, this will work harden the material and the drill will burn out. What you need to do is have a sharp drill and don't be affraid to push it. Oh and use plenty of coolant

Kind regards

John
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  #7  
Old 14th October 2009, 06:11 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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I must just be unlucky John,I had the lathe running fairly fast and was not frightened to push the drill hard but no luck, it was scrap studding so who knows what it was but it is hard stuff.
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