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  #11  
Old 17th October 2014, 01:36 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Low sides would be helpful for us big uns.
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  #12  
Old 18th October 2014, 12:26 PM
TalonMotorFabrication TalonMotorFabrication is offline
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I've have been using the back seat from a Ford Cougar with the sub frames removed and just wedging the foam seat base and back section in to the chassis, this has got me thinking about making some proper padded seats.
The old mans Locost has a pair of the Westfield type seats which are soft but being bigger I don't fit between the lumber pads, I don't sit in them rather on them.
What I'm looking in to making is a light steel sub frame seat, padded with PU moulded foam pads (non water absorbing foam) covered with leatherette or vinyl, if I can make these for a reasonable price (no not cheap) would there be any interest?

What are peoples thoughts on GRP seats verses the Westfield/Cobra 7 type seats, I've drawn up a rough list of arguments for both.

GRP bucket seats

Pros
100% Water proof
durable
light
can be trimmed as in cut to fit
can have pads added

Cons
fixed angle between base and back
some times suffer from weak captive mounts
very little shock absorbing properties
shoulder harness holes fixed so non adjustable
quality some times brought into question
pads move about or detach tear from glue

Cobra 7 or proper car seat

Pros
soft bolsters which adjust to different people
shock absorbing
light rain wipe dry if leather/vinyl
comfortable on long journeys

Cons
often heavy
too narrow across lumbar for bigger people
foam soaks up water
often expensive
very little choice


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  #13  
Old 27th February 2015, 10:49 AM
Ianr Ianr is offline
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I think a couple of weeks has passed now - any progress?


Quote:
Originally Posted by robo View Post
As soon as they are done Dave at Equinox will have the mold and he will be making them so give him a shout in a couple of weeks. I will take them out as far as I can because its easier to add a bit of padding if they need some .

Bob
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  #14  
Old 13th March 2015, 09:36 PM
robo robo is offline
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I tried chopping the seat around and stretching/wedging the fiberglass to gain the width but as soon as the wedges were removed it was back where I started within a couple of hours. The trouble is the mold has to be taken from the inside which is where all the wdges are so I think its probably best to get Dave to slice one in half and add the width in the middle, then mold from that. I have been up to my nuts in work so not had a chance to do anymore on it. I will speak to Dave in the week and see what he says.

Bob
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  #15  
Old 14th March 2015, 04:49 PM
Ianr Ianr is offline
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Thanks for the update Bob, hope it goes well
Ian
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  #16  
Old 14th March 2015, 05:57 PM
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Stot Stot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robo View Post
I tried chopping the seat around and stretching/wedging the fiberglass to gain the width but as soon as the wedges were removed it was back where I started within a couple of hours. The trouble is the mold has to be taken from the inside which is where all the wdges are so I think its probably best to get Dave to slice one in half and add the width in the middle, then mold from that. I have been up to my nuts in work so not had a chance to do anymore on it. I will speak to Dave in the week and see what he says.

Bob
Could you wedge then add a grp skin to the back of it so it holds shape when you remove the wedges? Then fill, paint and mold.

Cheers
Stot
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