Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Announcements
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 8th September 2010, 09:18 PM
David_17's Avatar
David_17 David_17 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Teesside
Posts: 544
Default 2 quick questions

Hi guys. Haven't done much on my build for a few days because i'm waiting for bits.

Just been plannning wiring, anyone know how close to the fuel pipes i'm allowed to run the cables, is there a minimum distance?

Also, i've been having a nightmare trying to shorten my sump - I've cut it, welded a plate on but there's a little bit that goes damp when i fill it with water. No matter how many times i grind it back and re-weld, it still goes damp when filled with water. (doesn't actually drip). If i run a bead of tigerseal or silicone on the inside, will this do anything to the oil?

If so, does anyone know of a shortend zetec or cvh sump for sale anywhere? Needs to be about 6" top to bottom.

Thanks all

Dave
__________________
~

My Build Diary - http://davesroadster.blogspot.com/

*updated 7/6/11*

Best bit so far: Getting it running
Worst bit so far: Cutting steel for wishbones and engine mounts.
Most annoying bit so far: Generator packing up half way through welding.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 8th September 2010, 09:51 PM
monsterob monsterob is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: crewe
Posts: 400
Default

would rtv siliconne sealant work ? or gasket seal ? i used to stick a series mini engines together with rtv to stop the bl design (seive) leaking

presume whatever you seal it with needs to be oil resistant hylomar gasket seal sounds best to me how bigs your wet patch ?
__________________
theres a box ! im not allowed in it ! i have to think outside !
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 8th September 2010, 10:22 PM
davidimurray's Avatar
davidimurray davidimurray is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Near Cardiff
Posts: 742
Default

Personally I would persist with the welding - or put the sealant on the outside. It only takes a small bit of sealant to black the pump. The garage down the road from me got a really nice wedge TVR cheap becuase it ran roughly. Previous owner had spent 800 at a TVR specialist trying to get it fixed but gave up. New owner decided to fit a new fuel pump. On taking the old one out of the tank he found it had been fitted with copious amounts of sealant - which had squeezed into the tank and blocked the fuel line. Tank clean out and blow through the fuel lines and runs like a dream now - even made the Le Mans classics and back in one piece - impressive for a TVR
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 8th September 2010, 10:25 PM
David_17's Avatar
David_17 David_17 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Teesside
Posts: 544
Default

someone on locostbuilders said araldite. Should work in theory??
__________________
~

My Build Diary - http://davesroadster.blogspot.com/

*updated 7/6/11*

Best bit so far: Getting it running
Worst bit so far: Cutting steel for wishbones and engine mounts.
Most annoying bit so far: Generator packing up half way through welding.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 8th September 2010, 10:35 PM
monsterob monsterob is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: crewe
Posts: 400
Default

i use stuff at work called powermix its german and good for everything ! not sure if its on general sale tho


interesting how sealant from the sump would end up in the fuel tank ? or am i having a stoopid moment ?
__________________
theres a box ! im not allowed in it ! i have to think outside !
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 8th September 2010, 10:42 PM
monsterob monsterob is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: crewe
Posts: 400
Default

stoopid moment or not reading !!


bad night bad news not paying 100% attention sorry
__________________
theres a box ! im not allowed in it ! i have to think outside !
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 9th September 2010, 09:37 AM
spud69's Avatar
spud69 spud69 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 1,678
Default

If you get stuck David bring the sump in here on Saturday when you come for your scuttle, we will give it a try on the mig on 3 phase - should give a smoother more continuous seam.

AndyH
__________________
Haynes Roadster / Saturn GRP Bodywork. Now available direct through http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/ or contact me direct on andrew.hugill@ntlworld.com

Regards..........AndyH
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 9th September 2010, 05:24 PM
tex tex is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: stockton on tees
Posts: 119
Default

the wiring should be ok to run down the tunnel with the fuel pipes.
if i were doing it i would run the wiring loom in convoluted tubing wrapped with tape and on the opposite side to the fuel pipes. makes no odds but keeps space taken up more even. just avoid sharp edges and moving parts as best you can
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 9th September 2010, 06:10 PM
james3004's Avatar
james3004 james3004 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Haddenham, Cambridge
Posts: 479
Default

I used chemical metal on the outside of my sump
__________________
--- James ---

IVA passed 20 June 2017
Flickr Album
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 9th September 2010, 08:43 PM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default

I,ve run my fuel line along the bottom of the tranny tunnel, brake line along the top & electrickery at the top on the opposite side to the brake line,
basically put as much space between the fuel & electrics as possible, taking into account as "Tex " has mentioned on moving parts & the route past the diff.
Also, my electrics are totally enclosed in convoluted (sp) tubing thru the tranny tunnel area from the fuse box to the rear of the car then spurred off to each side for rear lights etc.

Don,t forget to ensure you use the correct spacing for attaching the various pipes & electrics when attaching to the chassis, IVA man will check that (I believe its 100mm maximum between the "P" clips within the tranny tunnel).

Hope this helps.

cheers
andy
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.