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  #11  
Old 1st December 2009, 07:26 PM
londonsean69 londonsean69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwood View Post
Yes, that's what I should have done.
Makes far better edge.

David
Did you put the side panels over the floor?
OR
Side panels on, then floor?

Obviously including rivets and sticky stuff
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  #12  
Old 1st December 2009, 08:12 PM
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dogwood dogwood is offline
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Floor then side panels.

I rivited the floor then put the sides on.
So ended up with double rivits
I should have rivited through both at the same time.

David
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  #13  
Old 1st December 2009, 08:25 PM
londonsean69 londonsean69 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogwood View Post
Floor then side panels.

I rivited the floor then put the sides on.
So ended up with double rivits
I should have rivited through both at the same time.

David
Wish I has asked this BEFORE making my side panels

I might knock the bend out and reform it anyway
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  #14  
Old 1st December 2009, 08:38 PM
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dogwood dogwood is offline
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You can put the floor over the sides, provided you use plenty of selant.
I did this with rear when I boxed out the boot space

david

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  #15  
Old 1st December 2009, 08:41 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by londonsean69 View Post
Wish I has asked this BEFORE making my side panels

I might knock the bend out and reform it anyway
i might be waaaaaay off the mark here.....

but if you,ve already made the side panels why not rivnut the side panels on........ maybe only needs 2 rivnuts in the "floor area" & a couple at the front, depending if you,ve made them to mate up to the SB1,s then a couple of rivnuts into SB1, put a thin washer between the flange of the side panels to take account of the rivets in the floor..............

just my mind working overtime

if it works then the side panels become removeable

andy
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  #16  
Old 2nd December 2009, 01:43 AM
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AshG AshG is offline
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i drilled the floor except the areas where the side pannels go on and held with clecos. i then removed the floor, applied tiger seal then fixed back in place with rivets. i used bits of wood and g clamps to clamp down the areas where the side pannels would go over later on while the tiger seal set.

once all the tiger seal had gone off i put the side pannels on then drilled through the side pannels and the floor. then riveted.

little note to all. i made my side pannels prior to fitting the floor but sitll managed to get them on with a pry bar and rubber mallet.

i must have done something right as the floor is still attached
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  #17  
Old 2nd December 2009, 11:47 AM
chriseyj chriseyj is offline
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I drilled my floor by clamping it down.
I then deburred the holes on chassis and aluminium applied the sikaflex and dropped the floor on.
I held it in place again by putting a few rivets here and there, corners e.t.c. I didn't pull the rivets up till I knew I had the panel alligned and could get all the rivets in.
Biggest tip I read on here, was to dip each rivet in the sikaflex gun, although I found it easier to squeeze out a blob and twirl the rivet in it.
I sealed my tunnel up also, after consulting Andy, cant see me needing access from below. Because my floor is in 2 pieces due to not having a van I put an aluminium strip down the join.
Incidently because I'm using a bike engine I could of had the floor run under where the car gearbox would be but thought I'd save a few grams. I have also left that little piece of chassis rail infront of gearbox, no need to remove it.

Sorry for essay.
Chris
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  #18  
Old 4th December 2009, 11:43 AM
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cherno cherno is offline
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On my 7k I have used welding iron panel ( same panel from the back to the front of the chassis ) but open one for mecanic.

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