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  #1  
Old 8th October 2013, 02:11 PM
Fourcandles Fourcandles is offline
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Default Brakes Unions: Confused

Hi All,

Wondered if anyone can help?

Bought a part built roadster last year and am now trying to figure out the brakes. So far I have:

Sierra Master cylinder fitted and looks ok

Brake lines where already fitted when bough it.

Flexi's in and attached at Caliper end.

I roughly know what we need for the Unions i.e Male, female, T piece, Brake Switch.

But am confused as hell about what size unions we need as they appear to come in various sizes and not sure on size of brake lines.

I have also read that I will need metric for the flexis but UNF for the master cylinder?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Also any ideas which flaring tool is best when the lines have lready been fitted.

Ta.
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  #2  
Old 8th October 2013, 04:13 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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10 x 1 metric,UNF is for older cars like mini's etc.
Tee piece for brake light switch and tee to feed rears.
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  #3  
Old 8th October 2013, 05:52 PM
Fourcandles Fourcandles is offline
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Cheers thats great ill get them orderede and hopefullt fitted at weekend.
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  #4  
Old 8th October 2013, 09:42 PM
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voucht voucht is offline
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Hi,

Be careful not to mix up JIC3/8x24 (UNF thread) fittings with M10x1.00, they seem to screw in each other, but they are absolutely not compatible! Most of the time, metric fittings have a small cut (notch?) on each edge of the hexagonal part, it is a good way to see the difference.

But if you have a Sierra set-up, no worries, it is M10x1.00 all around : all master cylinder ports, front callipers and rear drums wheel cylinders (and I'm almost 100% sure that rear callipers are M10x1.00 too, if it is a 4 disc set-up)

So the easiest is to plan all your bulkheads, tee-pieces, etc. in M10x1.00, so there will be no confusion possible.

If you want to install a hydraulic brake light switch, a good one is the one from the VW Beetle, as it is M10x1.00, so you can install it on a 3 x M10x1.00 tee-piece (it will need a copper washer to be sealed though because it does not have any seat).

BTW, did you receive my reply to your PM?

Good luck
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  #5  
Old 9th October 2013, 01:37 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Metric 10x 1.0 are usually goldy coloured and UNF silver but not always gospel.

I have seen some hydraulic brake light switches have a tapered thread so take care before you fit it and as Sylvain says you will need to fit a copper washer to seal it and also fit it switch side down as it will trap air and give problems bleeding it.
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If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving...

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  #6  
Old 10th October 2013, 03:40 PM
Fourcandles Fourcandles is offline
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Cheers guys, your advice has been invaluble and thanks for the PM Sylvan.

I got all of the below from a supplier

Male and Female unions 2 x t and 1 x Brake Pressure switch.

And a flaring tool that good for fitted lines.

So sat afternoon I have a date with some lines and unions.

Wish me luck......never done brakes before!!!!
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  #7  
Old 10th October 2013, 04:22 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Just make sure you use the right flare as they are different.

Most fittings are male end and if you want to join a pipe you use both.
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Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed.
Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!!


If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving...

No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice.
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