Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Engine/transmission
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 6th June 2010, 10:15 AM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: gateshead,near cobbly bit of A1 North
Posts: 3,188
Default

This may help,set the ground clearance from chassis to floor at the front on some blocks at about 5 ins and the rear at about 6 1/2ins,see what sump clearance you have and possibly fit wings to sump to increase capacity lost through cutting the bottom off. Adding 25 mm brackets to top chassis rails and adding the same to panel/scuttle/noscone height etc will give you more under bonnet clearance.

And replace the exhaust manifold bolts with studs as they always failed on the SD1 of a million years ago.

Good luck.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 6th June 2010, 10:46 AM
dan_g8 dan_g8 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colchester, Essex
Posts: 103
Default

thanks Ginge that post was exactly what i was after. using this and flyerncle's idear ill chop the sump next week. am i correct in thinking the sump should be about 25mm below the chassis?

Dan
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 6th June 2010, 11:21 AM
gingea1pom's Avatar
gingea1pom gingea1pom is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 826
Default

Dan,

Here to help mate(cheesy grin smilly)

Try a serch using the key word 'sump'.

I can't at the moment as I am on my mobile.

Cheers Ginge
__________________
Sent from my iPad, from who knows where in the world

I was building but I am not now!


Build Pictures


Build Thread
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 6th June 2010, 01:16 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: gateshead,near cobbly bit of A1 North
Posts: 3,188
Default

Consider keeping it level with bottom of the gearbox Dan,you could always fit a bash plate to bottom of it to help if hit.

Should go pretty well when finished !!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 6th June 2010, 06:21 PM
HandyAndy's Avatar
HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: cleveland
Posts: 3,917
Default

Just be aware,
if you raise the height of the upper chassis rails to increase height of the bonnet...........

If you decide to use GRP side panels then they are designed to fit the standard chassis height of 355mm,
and also the nosecone is shaped to also fit the same dimensions,
yes you can raise the position of the scuttle but just wanted to highlight that the GRP sides & nose are made to be a snug fit

hope this helps in some way.

By the way, mighty impressive engine bay

cheers
andy
__________________
Flat Pack Chassis Kits for sale, contact me at andyroadster@yahoo.co.uk
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 7th June 2010, 10:02 AM
rincewind23 rincewind23 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 20
Default

Hey Dan, what gearbox are you using?

I've got the same engine but it came from a Landy and the gearbox is 4wd, which after some discussions on hear I have come to the conclusion I can't easily convert to the 2wd version.

Also, are you using the stock chassis, or a McSorley 442?

Cheers,
KEv.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 7th June 2010, 01:05 PM
dan_g8 dan_g8 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colchester, Essex
Posts: 103
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rincewind23 View Post
Hey Dan, what gearbox are you using?

I've got the same engine but it came from a Landy and the gearbox is 4wd, which after some discussions on hear I have come to the conclusion I can't easily convert to the 2wd version.

Also, are you using the stock chassis, or a McSorley 442?

Cheers,
KEv.
i am using the standard haynes chassis the only modification that i have done is use 2mm thick box not the 1.6mm and i havent put the diagnal support in the engine bay (because as you can see from the photos there is not alot of room). i would also advise that you make the tranny tunnel about 20mm wider, its a squeeze to fit the gearbox in.

The gearbox i am using is an lt77 from a tr7. im using this mainly because 5th gear is a better ratio (its an overdrive gear really) compared to the other lt77 boxes.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 7th June 2010, 02:09 PM
RAYLEE29's Avatar
RAYLEE29 RAYLEE29 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: POOLE DORSET
Posts: 520
Default

hi, that looks good but alittle too high to me.
im sure you can get it lower i think theres people on locostbuilders that have rv8's in locost chassis so it is possible, but if you leave it that high youll run into allsorts of problems.
Ray
__________________
Total spend so far £1116.08
1ST ALBUM HERE
2ND ALBUM HERE

Last edited by RAYLEE29 : 7th June 2010 at 03:39 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 7th June 2010, 04:50 PM
dan_g8 dan_g8 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colchester, Essex
Posts: 103
Default

i agree that its too high, currently i havent chopped the sump. I wanted to get the engine in so i was clear on how much i need to take off the sump thanks to Ginge i can now see that i need to chop about 1.5 - 2 inches off of the sump which will bring it down.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.