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  #11  
Old 24th July 2012, 09:59 PM
chrisponter chrisponter is offline
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Originally Posted by vmax1974 View Post
Got the rear subframe dropped down to the floor today but the front subframe has got caught up on the threads

As far as I can tell all the groundwork to removing the subframe has been done

Have I missed anything why even bashing the subframe with a length of wood and a sledge hammer it just wont budge
The front is bolted on in 4 places I think, once on each side inline with the wishbones, then some more further back and in towards the middle of the car.

I did the back ones first, then held it up with a jack while I undid the fronts.

Can't remember if that rear bit uses 3 or 2 bolts though.



Does that help?
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  #12  
Old 24th July 2012, 10:05 PM
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vmax1974 vmax1974 is offline
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Originally Posted by PorkChop View Post
Have you undone the 2 14mm bolts right at the rear of the subframe? There's 8 bolts to undo IIRC in total including the 4 around the strut tops.
Yes got the 2 rear most ones and 2 each side at the top of the subframe behind the strut that makes 6 where is the other 2
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  #13  
Old 24th July 2012, 10:12 PM
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alga alga is offline
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Originally Posted by chrisponter View Post
+1 on Johno's point about Keith Tanners book How to Build a Cheap Sports Car, it's just about how he managed to overcome all the problems in his build.
His build log was my inspiration to start my own build! Sadly, the book is out of print and unavailable on the online booksellers for a reasonable price.
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  #14  
Old 24th July 2012, 10:14 PM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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Have you undone the damper mountings? There's 2 bolts on each side. You won't be able to separate the shell from the subframe if you don't undo these.
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  #15  
Old 24th July 2012, 10:21 PM
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vmax1974 vmax1974 is offline
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Originally Posted by PorkChop View Post
Have you undone the damper mountings? There's 2 bolts on each side. You won't be able to separate the shell from the subframe if you don't undo these.
Yeah got them too spent most of the last 4 hours head scratching and double checking next step is going to be the gas axe I think
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  #16  
Old 10th September 2012, 09:27 PM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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Originally Posted by vmax1974 View Post
Yeah got them too spent most of the last 4 hours head scratching and double checking next step is going to be the gas axe I think
I know it's a bit late now, but it might help someone else - the bolts you mean are a bit hidden.

If you look at the front lower wishbone from the side of the car, you'll see an indentation in the bodyshell just slightly further back from the rearmost wishbone mounting. That's where the bolt is hidden, one on each side of the car.

These 2 bolts should be immediately obvious if you have either a pit or a lift.
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  #17  
Old 11th September 2012, 11:02 PM
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shh120m shh120m is offline
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Solution to steering rack clearance issue. Turned alluminium tapered insert fitted into control arm on upright reamed to take standard ford rs2000 track rod ends from the top as opposed to underneath. Picture taken without rack in place but gives an idea how much clearance there is now. Its yet to be seen if there is any significant change to the amount of bump steer as the instant centre position is changed from the original setup, but either way its safer than having contact between rack and wishbone. I did toy with the idea of changing the upper wishbone to induce some negative castor, both to help lift the control arms and help with self centering, but it would be no consellation to those who have already made their wishbones so i think this is the best solution, although iirc talon was talking about using the bent bmw track rod ends- thats another solution well worth playing with, i dont know if hes tried it might be worth a mention.

David bolam was asking about wingstays, if you make them like mine, just be sure to make sure the return angle at the bottom clears the wishbone plates at full hight of travel otherwise if there is any interference it could cause an accident whilst flying over the brow of a hill not being able to steer, probably best to use the dust cover holes as mounting points as suggested, something i never thought of duh




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Last edited by shh120m : 11th September 2012 at 11:13 PM.
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  #18  
Old 2nd October 2012, 01:36 PM
garylomas garylomas is offline
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Smile Mx5 Based Choice

Hi,Im joining you guys ,just bought an MX5 based chassis off a guy on e bay that was never started and came complete with all running gear,1800cc
need to start looking at the brackets necessarry for the sterrring column ,pedals etc
I think its a better choice than a sierra based model nowadays
cheers
Gary
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  #19  
Old 2nd October 2012, 07:34 PM
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Johno Johno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garylomas View Post
Hi,Im joining you guys ,just bought an MX5 based chassis off a guy on e bay that was never started and came complete with all running gear,1800cc
need to start looking at the brackets necessarry for the sterrring column ,pedals etc
I think its a better choice than a sierra based model nowadays
cheers
Gary
Hi Gary welcome aboard....
Plenty of people on here more than welcome to help you out..
So don't hesitate to ask.....
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  #20  
Old 2nd October 2012, 09:40 PM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garylomas View Post
Hi,Im joining you guys ,just bought an MX5 based chassis off a guy on e bay that was never started and came complete with all running gear,1800cc
need to start looking at the brackets necessarry for the sterrring column ,pedals etc
I think its a better choice than a sierra based model nowadays
cheers
Gary
Welcome Gary

Was this the chassis you bought? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290779639242
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