Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Announcements
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 23rd July 2013, 02:03 PM
Johno's Avatar
Johno Johno is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Lutton (East Anglia)
Posts: 497
Default

Bugger
Glad to see you're ok, did it cause any damage else where?
I'm guessing solid mounting is the way to go now by the look of it.
Which way is the diff trying to rotate looking at it from the rear out of curiosity when going forward.
Well hope you get it back on the road soon.
__________________
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
Albert Einstein

http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/

Johno
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 23rd July 2013, 02:45 PM
Davidbolam Davidbolam is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gosforth, Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 856
Default

Nightmare mate!

Have a look at my flickr page. There should be a photo of how I have solid mounted the nose of my diff with a very big bolt. On my jollies so can provide the full link. Will post some photos when I get home

David
__________________
Click to see my build photos on Flikr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/

Saturn MX5 Based Chassis, Limited Slip Diff & 2.4 Quick Rack.

Build cost.... seems to be spending more on tools than car bits at the moment! (they will be handy in the future though).
Car iva'd and passed 15/08/2014. Finished weight 572kg.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 23rd July 2013, 03:20 PM
Stot's Avatar
Stot Stot is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 750
Default

When the wheels are being driven forward the nose of the diff will want to pull up.

This was what I have plumped for along with some solid aluminium 'bushes' in the diff ears instead of rubbers it should keep it in place and any upward force should be directed into the cross members.



I may buy a spare diff now though...

Cheers
Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP
Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 23rd July 2013, 03:38 PM
CTWV50's Avatar
CTWV50 CTWV50 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,297
Default

I think it would be advisable to use copper/nickle 90/10% brake and fuel pipes with a solid mounted diff, plain copper may fatigue easily with vibration so I have read.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 24th July 2013, 05:06 AM
jason 82 jason 82 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Coleford
Posts: 354
Lightbulb

Quick thought, would an LSD be immune from the broken mounting arms ? I say this because with an LSD you get little or no spin at the drive wheels, meaning hell of a lot less vibration on the rear end & diff.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 24th July 2013, 06:04 AM
beardydave beardydave is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fareham
Posts: 73
Default

I think an lsd would be worse, when that lets go there will be that much more power going through it.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 24th July 2013, 01:50 PM
skov's Avatar
skov skov is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,085
Default

Looks like my propshaft is buggered too...
The UJ at the diff end can slide from side to side by half an inch or so
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 24th July 2013, 01:57 PM
jason 82 jason 82 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Coleford
Posts: 354
Default

Really gutted for you. Have you come up with a battle plan yet ?
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 24th July 2013, 02:13 PM
skov's Avatar
skov skov is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,085
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jason 82 View Post
Really gutted for you. Have you come up with a battle plan yet ?
Cheers mate. I wasn't too upset until I found the propshaft was knackered too... really don't want to be spending a load of cash on a new one at the moment

Current plan is:
1. Get another diff and replace the rubber mounts in the arms with solid ones.
2. Make up some solid spacers to replace the landrover mounts
3. Get a new propshaft
4. Bolt it all back together and see how long it lasts.

If it seems alright I'll make a new nose mount at some point to get rid of the fake landrover mounts.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 24th July 2013, 11:54 PM
CTWV50's Avatar
CTWV50 CTWV50 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skov View Post
Looks like my propshaft is buggered too...
The UJ at the diff end can slide from side to side by half an inch or so
Oh, that's not so funny, bugger!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.