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Old 6th August 2010, 09:12 PM
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Default Wiring Diagram - Comments Please

On and off for the past few weeks I've been drawing up a wiring diagram for my car. I thought it might be interesting to share it with the forum as it may help some others and I would be interested in any comments and feedback that may help me improve it.

The diagram can be found here - http://rapidshare.com/files/41145061..._Wiring_V1.xls

Cheers

Dave
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Old 6th August 2010, 09:30 PM
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Forgive me if im wrong but the link seems to want me to pay for the download?
am I missing something?
Ray
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Old 6th August 2010, 09:40 PM
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When the link opens - there are two 'speedometers'. Below the right hand one it says Free User - click that button. On the next page you will get a download button in the middle of the screen - click it and the download should start.
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Old 7th August 2010, 12:39 AM
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This file cannot be downloaded anymore, as there is a limit on downloads.

Which is a shame, as would be very useful to have.

Terry
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Old 7th August 2010, 09:27 AM
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I've tried to do a PDF version that should join together across 4 pages.See attached file.
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File Type: pdf Roadster Wiring V1.pdf (28.4 KB, 454 views)
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Old 7th August 2010, 09:57 AM
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I think the alternator dioed is back to front. ( not 100% on that though )

TT
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Old 7th August 2010, 11:05 AM
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scratch that. I was looking at it the wrong way.

However, I would keep the main charge wire separate from any other +12V wire. Run it from the alternator to the starter and to the battery. Nowhere else.

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Old 7th August 2010, 11:32 AM
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Cheers Dave

That is just the sort of thing I would like to follow when I get to that stage of my build. Nice one.

Cheers Ginge
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Old 7th August 2010, 03:37 PM
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the way i see it is looks like it all would work ok but

seem to notice some of your neg switching circuits are back to front
like hand brake switch.
ie. the feed is live from the ign on sw to the bulb (live all the time) and the h/brake switch earths the bulb completeing the circuit as the switch (earth switched) will only have one wire and saves exsess wiring.
bit like a oil pressure swith say.

this is done because it makes the system fail safe as most of the wiring would be on the neg side and if the insulation was damaged it would make the it go to the warning state.

dont think you need a relay for the horn as most horns are earth switched but thats up to you just copy how the orignal car did it if your not sure

you could use double gang relays say for your headlights (one coil two switchs) and fuse the feed side of the relay

you need to protect the battery side of battery by moving your fuses or by fitting a master fuse i have seen a few cars catch fire! buy poor wiring protection the closer to the battery is always better would be a shame to put all the time and money into your roadster . could even burn the garage/house down

the diode for the charge lamp is this not coverd buy the one in already in the alternator? i would need to check whats fitted

thats my take on it any way
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Old 7th August 2010, 08:44 PM
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Thanks for the comments and taking the time to look over the diagrams..

TwinTurbo - The charge light diode confused me for a while and took a few attempts to get right - when I work out which one to use I will add the part number. For the alternator feed I was planning to wire it back to the battery directly. Effectively the circuit would be connected as my diagram -but the physical wiring would be different. I will update the diagram to make it clearer that a dedicated cable should be used.

Ginge - glad I can be some help Electrics seem to be one of the areas that isn't documented very well so I thought I would see if I could change that! Once the final diagram is complete feel free to add it as a sticky to the forum.

baz-r - well spotted on the neg switched circuits - must have been asleep when I did those - will correct them and repost. Horns seem a bit of a grey area so I've played it safe - and I figure it gives you an emergency spare in cae you breakdown I used twin fuses for a number of the light circuits so that in the event that a fuse blows, you should still have some working lights. Good idea regarding a master fuse - would you suggest putting it where I have marked in the attached pic? In the location I've shown I figure it would cover both the permanent and switched live feeds. Do you have any reccomendations for the type of fuse and rating to fit? I was thinking of something like http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...s/holders2.php I see the Midi fuses are 40-100Amp while the Maxi are 100-250Amp. The extra diode on the charge light is included because some people have had problems with engine run on due to the megajolt continuing to draw power from the charge light after the ignition has been switched off.

Thanks again for all your help guys - and look out for version 2 coming to a forum near you soon

Last edited by davidimurray : 7th August 2010 at 08:46 PM.
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