#1
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pinto expert needed
Hi got a 2.0l pinto that would not run under load,
changed wires over on coil things improved greatly. On the spot it will rev and miss a little bit try and drive it and its popping spluttering when any amount of throttle is applied and throwing fuel back up the carb. drive it steady and its almost ok? What we have done advanced and retarded the timing and tested compression 3@ 165psi 1@ 100 psi. indicating piston ring on no 2 cylinder. Fitted and removed electric fuel pump New carb repair kit rotor leads dizzy cap points condensor plugs in line fuel filter no back box fitted Three people have looked at this and yet know fix, now the head has been taken off. Bore, piston ring and valves all look ok a little cokey but all looks ok in fact looks hardly used big question is what to do now. we are a long way in with pinto, shortend sump,stainless exhaust manifold made, side panel hole cut for exhaust, Cheers tricky |
#2
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Have you done a cylinder balance test by removing each plug lead and revving the engine.
TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#3
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Check static cam timing
check rocker gaps set No.1 to TDC check rotor arm is adjacent to No.1 plug lead check spark at plug run engine with strobe and check idle advance, set to manufacturer recomendation check spark advance at 3500 rpm with vacuum removed, should be 36 to 38 degs attach vacuum and test again, should have more advance with vacuum and no load problems now mean either the vacuum advance plate or the weights are giving problems in the distributor which you will see by strange advance using the strobe. If none of this points to the problem then borrow a carb and try that. |
#4
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Hi, firstly compressions are a little low were they taken at wot?
did you check valve clearances and cam timing? and thirdly the coil, if your using points and condensor you need the correct old style coil not one for electronic ign systems as the resistance is too low and will give almost exactly the symptoms your describing are you running a ballast resistor with your set up or a straight 12volt 3ohm coil? hope this helps also while the heads off worth grinding the valves in at the very least, especially if the engines done many miles on unleaded! Ray |
#5
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cheer chaps will try these things
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#6
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A poorly seating valve might explain the very low compression on the one cylinder, if that hapens to be one of the inlet ones it would certainly explain the fuel spiting back through the carb.
That is the exact same syptoms that I was having with my pinto engined Transit .... Never did get that running spot on & as it was sold today, I no longer have to keep chasing the problem I hope you get it sorted OK Ray Do you know what .... I never even give the coil on the Transit a thought .... I ought to know better than that !!
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#7
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Have you checked that you dont have a worn cam lobe on the low cylinder. pintos have a habbit of eating cams.
following that check the cam position at tdc cyl1 it could be a tooth out check you have the correct timing belt there are two different belts with different numbers of teeth. check the valve clearances.
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My Roadster Is Finished NerNer....... Pigs can fly, you just have to carry them onto the plane. My Pictures http://s707.photobucket.com/user/ashgardiner/profile/ |
#8
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inlet valve on number 2 edge slightly damaged flat spot on one side, would this be enough to cause this trouble. Next thing best source for new ones can only seem to find burton's do i replace them all while the head is off. Also thinking of putting a fast road cam any thoughts. It was looking like they were all ok this one was the last one out
cheers Tricky |
#9
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Hi Tricky
My local motor factor had no problem finding a couple of exhaust valves for my Pinto engined Transit £8'ish each if memory serves me right Personaly I would inspect each valve & judge it on its own merits. Once you take the plunge & buy a whole set of valves, you may then find out that the guides need replacing, while you are at it you may just as well have hardened exhaust valve seats ( If your not lucky enough to have an unleaded head ) Before you know it, a load of money will be spent Mind you, If you are going the fast road cam route, a full re-work of the head might not be such a bad thing
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#10
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cheers ronnie
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