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  #41  
Old 9th September 2011, 09:04 PM
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where the key turns first.

TT
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  #42  
Old 9th September 2011, 09:10 PM
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Ok cool, thanks again for all the help
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  #43  
Old 9th September 2011, 09:15 PM
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and recheck with the key in each position. (hold it in the start position whilst testin)
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  #44  
Old 9th September 2011, 09:52 PM
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Knowing how much redundant wiring there was in gus's carb setup I expect the cfi setup will be even worse. I have got the same setup as you engine wise, but used a premier wiring loom as it is much neater than the original. Engine will run on edis alone, although it will run rough. Don't forget you will need the bike fuel pump wired in to supply the carbs with petrol.
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  #45  
Old 10th September 2011, 03:44 PM
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Right so I tried the multimeter out on the ignition wires that connect onto where the key turns. I set it to 20 volts AC, put the black on the battery negative and the red on each wire (the loom positive connections where also connected to the battery positive). I've got a red, yellow, blue/black, and yellow black wires connecting on there. For some of the readings, it would first flash up with a number somewhere between 7 and 16 then after a second just show 1.

key position off (0)
red = 1
yellow = 0.01
blue/black = 1
yellow/black = 0

key position I
red=1
yellow=1
blue/black=1
yellow/black=1

key position II
red=1
yellow=1
blue/black=1
yellow/black=1
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  #46  
Old 10th September 2011, 06:28 PM
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You need to be on DC.

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  #47  
Old 11th September 2011, 06:28 PM
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Opps.. Well I've redone it on DC this time and here's what I got:

Position 0
red=12.73
blue/black=12.67
yellow=0.01
yellow/black=0

Position 1
red=12.73
blue/black=12.67
yellow=12.73
yellow/black=0

Position 2
red=12.73
blue/black=12.67
yellow=12.73
yellow/black=12.73
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  #48  
Old 11th September 2011, 07:05 PM
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All your getting is the difference in voltage drop over the different circuits. Do yourself a favour and buy one of these

http://www.uktools.com/sealey-ppx-au...4v-p-5079.html

They are brilliant, put the two leads to the battery and there are two small lights which detect what you have , green which is for the earth and a red for the live, further more its got a rocker switch so if you need a live press it one way and an earth press it the other. You can then run round all the circuits testing everthing ,bulbs ,sender units, fuseboards the lot for live and earths.

Bob
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  #49  
Old 11th September 2011, 09:33 PM
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Blue/black is the starter impulse wire, and should only have 12v on it when the key is in position 3. I think you have got it connected on the wrong terminal on the starter motor. There should be what looks like 3 bolts on the starter motor. The one for the impulse wire will be nearest the ground when the starter motor is fitted.
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  #50  
Old 11th September 2011, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robo View Post
All your getting is the difference in voltage drop over the different circuits. Do yourself a favour and buy one of these

http://www.uktools.com/sealey-ppx-au...4v-p-5079.html

They are brilliant, put the two leads to the battery and there are two small lights which detect what you have , green which is for the earth and a red for the live, further more its got a rocker switch so if you need a live press it one way and an earth press it the other. You can then run round all the circuits testing everthing ,bulbs ,sender units, fuseboards the lot for live and earths.

Bob
A multimeter will do the job fine. We have confirmed from the results that there is a strange issue somewhere..
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