#1
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Diff mounting plates and seat mounts.
As some of you may know, my welder is running off a generator, as my lockup doesn't have electric.
Sadly, it isn't quite powerful enough to weld 5mm plate, the engine just dies. For the diff brackets this isn't a problem, as i can take them home and do them off the mains. But the plates on the chassis (that the diff brackets bolt to) i'll struggle with. Would i get away with using 3mm plate? Or have i got any other options that people can come up with? Also, my seats will be bolted to 25mm box section (2mm wall), would the iva man prefer if i bolted right through the box section, or drilled a hole bigger than the bolt head on one side of the box, then bolted it through the hole (if that makes sense)
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~ My Build Diary - http://davesroadster.blogspot.com/ *updated 7/6/11* Best bit so far: Getting it running Worst bit so far: Cutting steel for wishbones and engine mounts. Most annoying bit so far: Generator packing up half way through welding. |
#2
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You should be able to weld the 5mm plate if you prep the plate properly. Grind a 45' angle along the edges,take your time and fill the gap in with a Z pattern this is called stich welding. Your front wishbone plates, grind the welds out and them do them again. Holding the tourch in your right hand (if right handed reversed for left) at about 45' so you can see the wire, work from right to left so you can see where your going. You need to push the heat in to the plate not drag the weld over cold steel,this time use more power slower wire feed and move the torch slower.
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Website http://www.talonmotorfabrication.co.uk/ Direct email phil@talonmotorfabrication.co.uk talonmotorfabrication@gmail.com Mobile office hours 07514098334 Last edited by Talonmotorsport : 1st August 2010 at 08:40 AM. |
#3
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I am in the center of the Toon if you want it welded.
PM for details. |
#4
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Cheers for the offer, but i can weld the brackets at home no problem. It's welding the 5mm plates to the chassis which are going to cause a problem.
I'll try talon's method of grinding a 45' angle on the plate and see if it copes. Anyone know about mounting the seats to box section?
__________________
~ My Build Diary - http://davesroadster.blogspot.com/ *updated 7/6/11* Best bit so far: Getting it running Worst bit so far: Cutting steel for wishbones and engine mounts. Most annoying bit so far: Generator packing up half way through welding. |
#5
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Grinding weld prep bevel on the 5 mm plate should reduce the power needed to about that of a butt weld of 3.3 mm plates.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#6
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Cant see it being a problem being bolted to box section , i would bolt right through the box section.I think you are supposed to use large load spreading plates under the bolt/nut but 2 points to think about are;
1 If you are mounting the seats on runners this will raise the seat height quite considerably. 2 If you decide to change the seats or runners in the future and cant use the original holes there wont be enough room to slot the holes or drill new ones. Dunno if that helps much really Last edited by ozzy1 : 2nd August 2010 at 01:45 PM. |
#7
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Thanks for the help.
I want the seats mounting 75mm higher, due to the shape/thickness of the fiberglass (so i can see properly over the steering wheel) - so the box section won't be a problem. My plan is to make a frame that bolts to the seats, then weld this to the runners, the runners will then be bolted to the box section which goes accross the footwell in the chassis.
__________________
~ My Build Diary - http://davesroadster.blogspot.com/ *updated 7/6/11* Best bit so far: Getting it running Worst bit so far: Cutting steel for wishbones and engine mounts. Most annoying bit so far: Generator packing up half way through welding. |
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