Stots Build Thread

[Stot]

Been lurking a while but I have some photos so figured I should do a build thread.

I build a Sylva Jester pre SVA and have missed owning a kit car so thought the Haynes Roadster would fit the bill, so I set about finding a donor and bought a flat pack.

I'm going for a very classic looking build, KAR120C style so no carbon or digital gauges etc.

Hopefully the car will compliment my Royal Enfield Bullet.

On with the pics.

Got My Donor as it failed MOT for rust. 115000 miles and drives fine.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-NW2H05tpZks/URVrDP735DI/AAAAAAAACWE/MQm8mKelsCE/s800/donor.jpg

Spent a weekend stripping out the interior and engine bay and then lifted the shell off the following weekend.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FZGx3ut8alw/URVrFtGX5UI/AAAAAAAACWM/fyxn82vw1RE/s800/deshell1.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EMDdciaPbHI/URVrLuDSJpI/AAAAAAAACWg/vpaPnz9jncY/s800/deshell-ed.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0MAheMVw-j0/URVrR-OtjJI/AAAAAAAACWo/Nt-6WCItHt8/s800/veryknackered.jpg
Knackering work...

[Stot]

Striped the subframes, PPF and engine and chained the engine up for a few nights.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QS57c-YfvpU/URVrT56zmGI/AAAAAAAACWw/09JOMsBuUqk/s800/engineresting.JPG

Subframes and shell are going to Phil at Talon so he can use them to jig up his new project. Phil is doing me the wishbones in return. Bonus!
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zQg9zC90InM/URVrXilhkjI/AAAAAAAACW4/JWm_p_w87Sw/s800/subframes.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DQljpJ4Iw-c/URVrerzLlzI/AAAAAAAACXA/L-x--DpwK9U/s800/shell.JPG

Spent a few days striping the hubs and uprights. I have a sand blaster so I striped it all down and painted them up in smooth black and hammered green.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EPiyCXk2amk/URVrgkzvCNI/AAAAAAAACXI/Uy8U3inpBGI/s800/brakes-b4andafter.JPG

Amazing how much crap accumulates on these parts.

I have all the front running gear painted now and starting the rear parts this weekend.

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Hi Stot

Looks like a good start--Very satisfying to turn cruddy old parts into lovely shiny ones:) :)

[Talonmotorsport]

Makes a change to get a clean collection for once, I usually pull my projects and donor cars from 4" of liquid mud or it's up side down in a ditch covered in 'police aware' stickers.

[K4KEV]

strong solid progress there bud.... keep it up, nice to see another build take shape.

[Stot]

Makes a change to get a clean collection for once, I usually pull my projects and donor cars from 4" of liquid mud or it's up side down in a ditch covered in 'police aware' stickers.

I could arrange that if it makes you more comfortable. ;)

Cheers
Stot

[Dualist]

That's a great start mate, loving the pics :)

[Stot]

I reamed the uprights today. Glad I have a lathe or this would have taken hours!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rw1pT4iDVAY/UR-_tr4cvyI/AAAAAAAACc4/L4jlvw5O5DA/s800/ReamingUprighs1.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1DNVzNyIjKI/UR-_tzE8VxI/AAAAAAAACc8/OYfang66YM4/s800/ReamingUprighs2.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MHNe4E6YB20/UR-_t_B93BI/AAAAAAAACdA/siwQNy4n-PQ/s800/ReamingUprighs3.JPG

[Stot]

I also got some more welding done on my chassis before I ran out of gas. :rolleyes:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-714Fxzxttr4/UR-_ulXvbRI/AAAAAAAACdQ/zAqS1C5IDPc/s800/chassis1.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GSAi7PPY3Cs/UR-_urQ0yoI/AAAAAAAACdM/tJQOm8i7bA8/s800/chassis2.jpg

Its not far off. Transmission tunnel and suspension brackets mainly.

Cheers
Stot

[Eternal]

Nice work! All looking very smart cant wait to see more :)

Oh don't suppose you have the plug that goes to the fuel sender spare? If so let me know as I'm trying to find one.

[Stot]

Nice work! All looking very smart cant wait to see more :)

Oh don't suppose you have the plug that goes to the fuel sender spare? If so let me know as I'm trying to find one.

Thanks!

Ill probably be using the MX5 sender but its possible another plug on the loom that I'm not using is the same so ill take a look.

Cheers
Stot

[Eternal]

Fantastic thanks mate :D

[Johno]

Seemed to have missed this one somehow...:o
Great to see another MX5 version on the go and it looks like you're off to a flying start.:) :)
Keep the pictures coming...

[PorkChop]

Thanks!

Ill probably be using the MX5 sender but its possible another plug on the loom that I'm not using is the same so ill take a look.

Cheers
Stot

All the plugs bar one (on the steering column) are unique.

The uprights shouldn't needed reaming - I thought BMW 5 series ends had the correct taper for MX5 uprights?

Lots of progress though - puts me to shame (although I have a fairly good excuse to not weld my chassis up yet) :o

[Stot]

The uprights shouldn't needed reaming - I thought BMW 5 series ends had the correct taper for MX5 uprights?

I opted to ream the uprights as I couldn't find the BMW version. The reamer tool was £4.10 from Axminster and I knew I would be able to do it this way.

A change in threaded insert is required to M14 x 1.5mm thread to accommodate a change in
drag link to a 3 series BMW insert, Motaquip part number – PVTR325.

Even using the part number on the Motaquip website turned up nothing, in fact a Google search for that part number only found the build manual. :confused:

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

I reamed mine out. Andy at ssc attached the reamer to a drill and it was done in no time. Never heard anyone using BMW fittings before.

[Davidbolam]

Nice work! All looking very smart cant wait to see more :)

Oh don't suppose you have the plug that goes to the fuel sender spare? If so let me know as I'm trying to find one.

I need to get some mx5 bits in the next few weeks so am going to visit the breaker I use. I will try any get you one there. They normally bin the looms so probably will be free.

[PorkChop]

I opted to ream the uprights as I couldn't find the BMW version. The reamer tool was £4.10 from Axminster and I knew I would be able to do it this way.



Even using the part number on the Motaquip website turned up nothing, in fact a Google search for that part number only found the build manual. :confused:

Cheers
Stot

Ah, yes. It's a typo. There's no P in the part number - the part number is VTR325 (BMW E34 5 series saloon, 1988-1996).

[PorkChop]

I reamed mine out. Andy at ssc attached the reamer to a drill and it was done in no time. Never heard anyone using BMW fittings before.

It's in the SSC build guide, Phil does his MX5 wishbones to suit the BMW stuff, I'm going to be using them (although I nearly bought 3 series ones by mistake :o) and Johno has too.

[Stot]

Ah, yes. It's a typo. There's no P in the part number - the part number is VTR325 (BMW E34 5 series saloon, 1988-1996).

:doh: Never mind, more than one way to skin a cat I suppose.

Cheers
Stot

[Johno]

Hi Stot,:)
I hear you was down my neck of the woods Saturday.
If I had known I could have shown you round my car and had a chat.
The car was in the workshop where you picked up your stuff from and I was working on it upto about 4o'clock so must have just missed you...:(

[Stot]

Hi Johno,

I missed that bodywork by minutes unfortunately so it wasn't me if that's what you meant?

I was at home helping Phil @ Talon load my MX5 shell onto the back of his truck. :D

Never seen another man make my wife so happy.... :p

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

a wee update. I needed to strip the rear uprights completely and I had a seized bolt stuck in one of them. I had cut the bolt to remove the upright from the wishbone.

I spent an age trying to get the damn circlip out of the upright and in the end took an old set of vice grips and welded them to the circlip!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xwmBNjkZxFM/USU2uXVrMkI/AAAAAAAACgs/_GspGLNF2_A/s564/wheelbearings1.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3OKFQvnrWSo/USU2uQzwtZI/AAAAAAAACgw/ecOL6UD_6TQ/s564/wheelbearings2.jpg

Came out in seconds and i pressed the bearings out with a 12 ton press.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tpJ6ji53wyY/USU2vgtq9qI/AAAAAAAAChI/4ZmmvUg8WlQ/s564/wheelbearings4.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e_PLddybQk0/USU2v-Gt0GI/AAAAAAAAChE/NCgo91S1UJE/s564/wheelbearings5.jpg

Ready for final blasting an painting.

[Stot]

Next up the seized bolt.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-68iwiuSrMgc/USU3HXvkmjI/AAAAAAAACiE/RGMM3zxE_js/s564/siezedbolt1.jpg

I center drilled it on the mill and then used a dead center in the press to free it up and a long socket to push it through.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Mhf-DeCBInY/USU3HS02yWI/AAAAAAAACho/5rS4Di6rvMg/s564/siezedbolt3.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-98zY4DiqZXo/USU3Iby6mVI/AAAAAAAACh0/O8xbrLWMIG4/s564/siezedbolt4.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QNkKT_viq9Y/USU3JQwmkSI/AAAAAAAACiA/QbptTeUB0KQ/s564/siezedbolt5.jpg

It went with a bang.

[Stot]

I drifted it out the rest of the way.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G89qyGXjARI/USU3JRphVTI/AAAAAAAACiI/vfcABrh7puM/s564/siezedbolt6.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Ivy3_Dnhi38/USU3KdJRwfI/AAAAAAAACiU/dHp4H4AejRA/s564/siezedbolt7.jpg

Another job done.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Got the rear drivetrain bits blasted and painted. These are first coat pictures but I did the second coat this morning so they are done.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Aj4yJJvrNkE/USc3mi9PwpI/AAAAAAAACjc/y5ybKsUpG18/s573/RearDrivetrain1.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RmzdNWtCiKY/USc3neLRrAI/AAAAAAAACjk/w1jMsobjttM/s573/RearDrivetrain2.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-apWp9foeFS4/USc3mKj14dI/AAAAAAAACjg/hiZ0jo7oAqk/s573/RearDrivetrain3.jpg

I have new bearings, brake seals, ball joints etc to go on. Be rolling soon... :eek:

Cheers
Stot

[skov]

Nice work!
I gave up trying to remove the bolts out of my rear uprights and bought another pair with them pre-removed :rolleyes:

[Stot]

Nice work!
I gave up trying to remove the bolts out of my rear uprights and bought another pair with them pre-removed :rolleyes:

Its definately handy having some big tools kicking around! If I hadnt been able to push it out I was going to mill it out but I managed to save the mess. :)

Cheers
Stot

[Eternal]

Nice work :D Looking forward to seeing more!

[Talonmotorsport]

They come out a lot easier if you can spin the bolts in the uprights with an impact gun, soak over night with oil, then they come out with a drift and a big Ammer!

[Johno]

They come out a lot easier if you can spin the bolts in the uprights with an impact gun, soak over night with oil, then they come out with a drift and a big Ammer!

Yep I'll second that as thats what we done.:)

[Stot]

They come out a lot easier if you can spin the bolts in the uprights with an impact gun, soak over night with oil, then they come out with a drift and a big Ammer!

Exactly how I got the other side off. This one, it wouldn't turn even with a 4 ft break bar and I was hammering like buggery until the end of the bolt was mushrooming with no joy so I made the executive decision to get the angle grinder out. :D

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Uprights are ready to just bolt on now with all new brake seals, new rear bearings and new bushes. :cool:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vRS3QuvA3-M/USkjnOQ-uXI/AAAAAAAACk4/6PHCdNlVhwo/s800/DoneUprights1.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z5gdZJWc1fI/USkjnCNr_LI/AAAAAAAACk0/SFhD9NWcJoY/s800/DoneUprights2.jpg

Next I need to finish welding up the chassis and get the wishbone brackets tacked up.

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Very nice indeed;)

[Stot]

Look what just turned up from Phil @ Talon. :D

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rwmP9_WZP1M/USyQPX28oNI/AAAAAAAAClY/NhLGUDOfUXU/s800/Bones.jpg

He even painted them for me. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Made some more progress with the chassis. Trans tunnel is in and suspension brackets are on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1p06LXDQRjM/UTOYmzmtGCI/AAAAAAAACpM/xub8XSkm7Qw/s800/chassis3.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b55nj7WfI3k/UTOYoGEKqgI/AAAAAAAACpU/IKsv9owyGVY/s800/chassis4.jpg

One of my D12s has gone missing. :mad: most everything else is fully welded.

I trial fitted one of the front suspension and uprights to see how it would fit too.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qiA1Gs_W_48/UTOZApARWtI/AAAAAAAACpc/vf9MUqjk0DQ/s800/trialfit+frontsuspension.jpg

Look a bit weird from that angle but it will probably make sense once I do them flat.

Cheers
Stot

[Johno]

Some cracking progress there :)
Are the wishbones roughly based on the Saturn design? If so you may have a problem with the steering arm extension hitting the lower wishbone. You can get round it by limiting the amount of steering lock as it only just hits on full lock.
I know Phil made some lower wishbones with a slight bend in them to get over this as well I believe for the Voodou design I think.
Any thoughts on how you are going to mount your diff yet? It's been a topic of much debate in the past on which way to mount it.

Looking forward to more photos...:cool: :cool:

[Stot]

Some cracking progress there :)
Are the wishbones roughly based on the Saturn design? If so you may have a problem with the steering arm extension hitting the lower wishbone. You can get round it by limiting the amount of steering lock as it only just hits on full lock.

They are based on Saturn design, Phil made them for me, I'm a little concerned with how far it looks like I may have to have the drag links wound out to get to 1-2 degrees camber at the moment. Looks like there may only be 3/4"-1" of thread in the wishbone. Wont know properly till next weekend. I may shorten my rack as the book suggests which may limit the lock to lock enough that I dont need to put any stops on it. If not, Ill knock up some stops. :D

Any thoughts on how you are going to mount your diff yet? It's been a topic of much debate in the past on which way to mount it.

Hanging it from the arms but not sure on supporting the nose at the moment.

The next goal is to get it rolling so that I can wheel it to and from my detached garage so steering uprights and maybe handbrake next.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Made a start on my pedal box tonight.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J4fQ7xf5LCA/UTZXuCVAL9I/AAAAAAAAD0Q/jd7ijCAjK8Y/s800/PedalBoxStart.jpg

I note on the MX5 setup the furthest left lower bolt hole is covered by the pedal so needs to be repositioned.

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

Both skov and myself noticed on he mx5 the accelerator pedal moves a long way. It might be an idea before its installed to see if it can be modified in some way.

[Stot]

Hmmm. Difficult to change the pivot points at this end, may be easier to change it at the throttle body.

How much would you say it is out? Is there say twice as much travel as you would expect?

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

I would say twice as much. It may be ok if you don't put any grip tape on the peddle as you can slide your foot forwards and let it slip under your foot. I've got grip tape on mine and it feels really awkward. (If that makes sense).

[Stot]

I cant really change the pivot distances at the pedal theres just not the space, so I guess there are 2 options

Turn a smaller pulley for the throttle body.
Put a pulley on the bottom of the pedal and loop the cable back to the backplate. This will create twice the cable pull for the same pedal travel. I would need to use a longer cable but they are cheap enough.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d7FsBbLAKy8/UTcKgIghNqI/AAAAAAAAD0k/iRXpsZU_GGE/s473/pedal.jpg

I think option 1 is easier.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Heres how the throttle body pulley can be modified.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5GQX6nwV37I/UTcn3KJ01_I/AAAAAAAAD6g/sx8TOcH_Iz0/s400/throttlepulley.jpg

This would give 1/2 the pedal travel to WOT and really simple to turn one up on the lathe.

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

I cant really change the pivot distances at the pedal theres just not the space, so I guess there are 2 options

Turn a smaller pulley for the throttle body.
Put a pulley on the bottom of the pedal and loop the cable back to the backplate. This will create twice the cable pull for the same pedal travel. I would need to use a longer cable but they are cheap enough.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d7FsBbLAKy8/UTcKgIghNqI/AAAAAAAAD0k/iRXpsZU_GGE/s473/pedal.jpg

I think option 1 is easier.

Cheers
Stot

Not sure about the mathematics on that one:confused:

[Stot]

Not sure about the mathematics on that one:confused:

Every 1cm of movement of the pulley the cable is wrapped around would require the cable at the top of the pulley to be 1cm longer and the cable at the bottom of the pulley to be 1cm longer, so 2cm of cable total. As the cable is attached to the back plate at the bottom the 2cm required has to come from the top by pulling on the throttle.

I think the TB linkage is a better idea though. :D

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Yep --got it .Old age creeping in:rolleyes:

[Talonmotorsport]

Have you considered making a bell crank which would give you you a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio?

[Stot]

Have you considered making a bell crank which would give you you a 2:1 or 1:2 ratio?

That would work but it would need a more complicated linkage and bracketry along the way as well as extra cables or control rods.

I'll give the TB pulley/linkage a go first,its a 10 min job on the lathe and mill.

Cheers
Stot

[Johno]

Both skov and myself noticed on he mx5 the accelerator pedal moves a long way. It might be an idea before its installed to see if it can be modified in some way.

Hi,
Didn't Skov say that Nathan supplied him with the wrong pedal and this is what caused the long travel? Not quite sure now....

[Stot]

Got something delivered today. One of the only things I will be doing to the engine other than a lick of paint on the block!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tNsHYJ8Jnbo/UUC9Fm-8OpI/AAAAAAAAEFc/p53x957BYkI/s902/IMAG0401.jpg

Cam cover from America - $$$
Shipping to UK - $$$$
Customs costs - $$$$$$
Unique look and no Mazda Logo - Priceless :D

[skov]

Very nice :) Looks far too clean!

Is it off a 323 gtx?

[Stot]

Very nice :) Looks far too clean!

Is it off a 323 gtx?

No the 323 one has a Mazda logo one side and the DOHC 16VALVE on the other.

This one is from a Mercury Capri XR2. A car designed in Italy using Japanese parts to be built in Australia and then sold in the USA.....

Cheers
Stot

[skov]

A car designed in Italy using Japanese parts to be built in Australia and then sold in the USA....

Makes perfect sense, lol

Don't know why I didn't guess it was off one of those!

[Stot]

20 mins with some sandpaper.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-StqpdezYjtg/UULoWM_od_I/AAAAAAAAEGQ/oOHYgvW_es8/s488/cam+cover.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Went to pick up a body kit from Equinox today. It all fit in my Hilux, which was nice.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6-rb3tLF9Lg/UUm5JoU-3oI/AAAAAAAAEHU/6Qcbx11bmjI/s800/completebodykit.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3kRos__Ou-o/UUm5J4qA2VI/AAAAAAAAEHY/Ni3n0PrOiVc/s800/frontandrearwings.jpg

Obviously im not ready to fit it but I wanted a nosecone and scuttle for positioning purposes and in the interests of colour matching and a deal I ordered the whole set, with clam shell wings even! :p

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

Can you put up some photos of the body kit without the bubble wrap. I am looking into bodywork and cannot decide who to use.

[Stot]

Im sure my wife will be pleased to help me set it up in the kitchen tonight... :D

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Im sure my wife will be pleased to help me set it up in the kitchen tonight

Who thought I was kidding?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sJT60JRKNlw/UUoUZfaDejI/AAAAAAAAEJs/b8J01Dzz1i8/s800/bodywork1.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b270Fi19Mqs/UUoUZRpYJNI/AAAAAAAAEJo/jBuTdS2dFJY/s576/bodywork2.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e-iNxm8hXuE/UUoUZdgCwMI/AAAAAAAAEJk/5Q9LuTetkws/s800/bodywork3.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GTxFX2S6Lgc/UUoUaIor-qI/AAAAAAAAEJg/yTDPirPPb2A/s800/bodywork4.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Looks good:)

Is it Metallic BRG?

[Stot]

Looks good:)

Is it Metallic BRG?

No just standard RAL6005. Gelcoat with a good polish on it can give a really deep colour. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[alga]

Colour code KAR120C :)

[Stot]

Colour code KAR120C :)

Well, its got to look right next to this in the garage.

https://sites.google.com/site/artworkfiles/uploads/bulletright.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[Not Anumber]

Let me know how you get on with the clamshell wings, ive been thinking of moving over to them.

[Stot]

Let me know how you get on with the clamshell wings, ive been thinking of moving over to them.

Will do.

Dave said he doesnt know how they fit exactly as he has only sold one other set of them.

They need a bracket fabricating about 2/3 of the way up as well as bolting to the sides so Ill probably weld in a 3mm strip to the chassis so that they are bolting into metal rather than just onto the GRP sides.

Cheers
Stot

[Not Anumber]

Amazing pace on your build and its always great to see use of the traditional colours and styling.

[Stot]

Thanks! I think i'm lucky enough to have a lot of the tools I need to save a lot of time on it so far.

I'm looking at the dash at the moment. I was thinking of some classic Smiths dials or something like that but its cable drive and 1024 revs per mile so not all that common, and besides I have a perfectly good dash from the MX5 and there's a guy on MX5Nutz who does custom dials. Only problem is the shape of the instrument cluster doesn't flow nicely, but it does upside down so I'm currently designing some dials.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GDPj3amok2E/UUzIKqmoDsI/AAAAAAAAEMs/hvsmipkUCiA/s1023/mockDash.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ETOTtXXyZwo/UUzINZe2mzI/AAAAAAAAEM8/mS-dbCFhQp8/s800/instruments.jpg

I'm going to have bezeled bulbs/leds for the warning lights.

Moving the position of the needles is easy, major problem is the odometer would be upside down. So I took it out and flipped it over. Just had to fettle the back a bit to allow it to fit.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i8ILXzT4WP8/UUzIR-_YMcI/AAAAAAAAENE/ybKbDqesUhE/s956/hackedspeedoback.JPG

And while i was there I zeroed the odometer.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xAKoLpXA_XU/UUzIVeeUAYI/AAAAAAAAENM/m7SrqzoMVv8/s956/desired-effect.JPG

Only initial problem is I don't have a way of resetting the trip meter a the moment because the reset button would be where the indicator tell tale is.

Not the end of the world, I could do without a trip meter.

I should note. That last photo is just me playing with paper dials, not the finished items!

Cheers
Stot

[Johno]

That's dammed impressive :cool:
I think the layout of the Mx5 suits the car well.
Look forward to more photos.

[Stot]

That's dammed impressive :cool:
I think the layout of the Mx5 suits the car well.
Look forward to more photos.

Cheers, It looks to fit real nice.

I have refined my design a bit as I realised I have a 140mph speedo and I have included KM/H on the speedo for DVLA registration.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BMotvERGsBA/UU7aicbUziI/AAAAAAAAENo/tuVfL5NHhJg/s961/dash3.jpg

Need to check I have all the required tell tale lights, these are all the ones that are currently on the dash so should be ok.

Cheers
Stot

[flyerncle]

There has been a lot of changes to the MOT as of last week so I would think we will see a change to IVA manual as well.

[Stot]

Getting closer

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TtWFdeCKGr8/UVIPhuio8bI/AAAAAAAAES0/RTdZGoo8OdM/s800/mockdials.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Not Anumber]

Excellent work. What software did you use to produce those dial graphics ?

[Stot]

I use CorelDraw as I have been using it over 20 years now. Adobe Illustrator would also be a good choice as both of these are vector (math) based and would give the best results.

You could use a Photoshop or Gimp type program as long as you work at ~600dpi and keep everything on layers.

Cheers
Stot

[alga]

Inkscape is the open source vector drawing program. http://inkscape.org/ I used it to bang together the logo in my avatar.

[Stot]

Inkscape is the open source vector drawing program. http://inkscape.org/ I used it to bang together the logo in my avatar.

Yep that would be perfect.

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

I was wondering if a badge could be produced from your avatar design?

[Stot]

I was wondering if a badge could be produced from your avatar design?

Yeah it can. I'll be doing a bonnet badge and wheel hub badges. I have a small CNC mill so ill be able to knock them up but DIY CNC is a slow process.

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Looking forward to that:)

Keep us all posted on it;)

Cheers

[alga]

Ooooh, CNC'd brass polished and painted with enamel? That would be ace.

[twinturbo]

Nice Dials...

TT

[Stot]

Still waiting for some replacement parts so that I can get it rolling and wheel it to and from my other garage but I got the steering hashed out.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PH95GDDrbGg/UVhyy1EZKMI/AAAAAAAAEVY/EZzLbwiGRQo/s800/steering2.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EHiVhsAsBP8/UVhyy0FcZsI/AAAAAAAAEVc/LWErE6RB1jM/s800/steering3.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tUfEQ6PvSJ0/UVhy0seSxvI/AAAAAAAAEVo/hR0BmGNBal8/s800/steering4.JPG

The cast UJ from Rally Design is poor. The holes are not in the right position to stop the splined ends from pulling out. :rolleyes: Ill try opening them up to allow a bigger bolt or buy the pressed steel version.

Cheers
Stot

[will_08]

Looking good pal,

1 question the plate your steering column bearing is mounted to, is that still 1mm as per the book or have you beefed it up a bit?

I'm just about to tackle that bit is all.

Cheers Will

[Stot]

1 question the plate your steering column bearing is mounted to, is that still 1mm as per the book or have you beefed it up a bit?

Its a 3mm piece, 1mm would flex like buggery under braking.

Cheers
Stot

[alga]

Its a 3mm piece, 1mm would flex like buggery under braking.

Do you plan to attach your master cylinder or the pedal pivot to it?

[Stot]

Do you plan to attach your master cylinder or the pedal pivot to it?

I have made up a pedal box so it will bolt in like the book. The CP17 side panel is 1mm on mine. I wouldn't want to be bolting the pedal box to that. :eek:

Cheers
Stot

[alga]

I have made up a pedal box so it will bolt in like the book. The CP17 side panel is 1mm on mine. I wouldn't want to be bolting the pedal box to that. :eek:


Don't forget that the pedal box is also bolted to the floor, it's resting against the bottom chassis rail, and the MC is just a couple of millimetres above said rail. I used 1 mm plate as per book, and I think it's perfectly adequate. If you're unconvinced, 1.5 mm plate will definitely do the job, and 3 mm is just 1 kg of extra weight in the chassis.

[Stot]

Back to the dials...

I think the MX5 Nutz guy is stopping doing them as the emails went dry. So I did a little digging and found a guide on making them yourself, although the guide has been taken down now as people were stealing the guide writers designs.

Laser print a front, middle and back on acetate and paper.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5uUeE4Zz4dc/UVszVxo82kI/AAAAAAAAEcM/kYtVg7R04-8/s800/makedials1.JPG

Stick them together with a spray glue.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hU4jUyICG5k/UVszZKa_1nI/AAAAAAAAEcg/ybaNqYMWbsc/s800/makedials2.JPG

cut them out.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PwgfjfDm7RE/UVszZOiAVeI/AAAAAAAAEcY/kC5txie6-VA/s800/makedials3.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-us1uVsDU6SM/UVszZsh5StI/AAAAAAAAEck/L7ypz6iyGYM/s800/makedials4.JPG

[Stot]

Add holes for the screws and locators
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZmWQgx_H-_w/UVszdQOucCI/AAAAAAAAEc0/10toftKasWE/s800/makedials5.JPG

Cut out the odometer window with a craft knife.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9PkqyEOZXOQ/UVszdrSfJQI/AAAAAAAAEc4/PwVFIQBv4jc/s800/makedials6.JPG

Draw round the inside of the window with a black sharpie to hide the white edge.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XeYTtxBlpOI/UVszhDhc5QI/AAAAAAAAEdU/Xs1ra4nxWUw/s800/makedials8.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AfYDFPzFbbg/UVszdxupopI/AAAAAAAAEc8/g7bb32IekVA/s800/makedials7.JPG

[Stot]

Don't forget to cut the middles out like I did.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h3O89byMbBE/UVszhjxdK2I/AAAAAAAAEdY/qEC4CRYXkZ0/s800/makedials9.JPG

This is how I popped off the old dial hands. levering against my fingers not the back of the dial.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hNWCoV8jm3s/UVszh7vhS2I/AAAAAAAAEdc/xmItHuKVfMI/s800/makedials10.JPG

As I changed where the 0 position was, I needed to remove the three tell tale lights so the whole tacho dial would illuminate.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4WiFRXJ5MNY/UVszkZkbPzI/AAAAAAAAEdk/FTyTU3dilXY/s800/makedials11.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_fWn1grdQ-Q/UVszmpjZchI/AAAAAAAAEd8/ucsn0QurqJk/s800/makedials12.JPG

[Stot]

Put the dial hands back on.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Owkf6qMOQME/UVszmi2Yq-I/AAAAAAAAEd4/AMaOyEOa5YU/s800/makedials13.JPG

Daylight
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZJNQmB-iII4/UVszqIbEy9I/AAAAAAAAEeE/XbYN93cTRVU/s800/makedials14.JPG

Night time
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5ITOOmkDtjg/UVszslMiwYI/AAAAAAAAEec/tugi8lES-L8/s800/makedials17.JPG

Came out nice I thought. :D

Cheers
Stot

[skov]

Them's the dogs danglies!

[Johno]

Very nice work indeed Mr Stot...:cool: :cool:
All I can say is you are a very clever chappy:)

[Stot]

Im changing the numbers on my dial design based on the Smiths Mini Classic dials. I also wasnt overly happy with the amount of light bleeding through the background on the dials when illuminated so I have added an extra 'mask' layer to these ones that is silver foiled to block the light.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1sREPazHBl8/UV6t1H0FA5I/AAAAAAAAEgo/9EVkfKrG4zg/s800/toner-foil1.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hCrPYOrQVpE/UV6uM9Hu2oI/AAAAAAAAEgw/DpOj7ap3jug/s800/toner-foil2.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rZKqNg_GMGc/UV64QwrSvqI/AAAAAAAAEhA/X9zpDNwkYxs/s800/toner-foil3.jpg

Cant wait to see how these ones turn out. :cool:

[Stot]

I also had a go at making a new insert for the warning lights in the cluster because they would be upside down otherwise. Same process but omitting the paper layer.

The parts,
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o8zfwWkd4gk/UV64sSKc1jI/AAAAAAAAEhI/hQNr2er_DyY/s800/warning+lights1.jpg

Layered up,
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OHRZGUxy8dQ/UV64u58i3HI/AAAAAAAAEhg/ZUyZjpfXR8o/s902/warning+lights2.jpg

Light from behind.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3TN8DXf11wQ/UV64xbE_l1I/AAAAAAAAEhY/yP3FdhpfNRo/s800/warning+lights3.jpg

I havent stuck these together yet but its looking promising.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

MK2 dials. Based on the Smith mini speedo.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wKrZq4LATLU/UV_p4ck86RI/AAAAAAAAEi4/4C8boloOe7A/s800/mk2dialsdaytime.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YZICijpGH9s/UV_qEXt3kuI/AAAAAAAAEjA/FjHleQwG4rU/s800/mk2dialsilluminated.JPG

Much more retro looking I think, and the illumination doesn't bleed anywhere near as bad!

And the warning lights work a treat. :cool:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6PcAZdPOH3k/UV_qEyjLC1I/AAAAAAAAEjI/SIJBGfR44Uw/s564/warning+lights.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[Not Anumber]

These are seriously good.
You could think about sharing your set up costs by making sets for other builders. A lot more cost effective than spending out on Smiths dials to achieve the same result.

[K4KEV]

Am liking your build ethos Andy....you obviously like things to be "right" or nowt else will do:) .....a trait I also suffer from, can be a pita sometimes tho:mad:

[Stot]

These are seriously good.
You could think about sharing your set up costs by making sets for other builders. A lot more cost effective than spending out on Smiths dials to achieve the same result.

Theres way too much work in them for me to do that really. To make a set takes upwards of 3 hours to produce + design time. I must have put over 20 hours of design into these ones and made 3 sets of these Smiths ones before I got them right. :eek:

They cost me £15 for 50 sheets of acetate, £9 for the spray glue and £4 for a craft knife and hole punch set.

MX5Nuts guy is doing them for £35 a set (http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=109525&st=320).

Cheers
Stot

[twinturbo]

Very Very Smart.

TT

[Stot]

Sticking with the KAR 120C theme, red seats are called for...

Couldnt find anything new at a reasonable price, but ended up getting this pair of RX1110 Full leather red seats, with runners, for the price of some black vinyl Mamba Baby Cubs! :cool:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-smdUXk5OHrI/UWWLm1jU1uI/AAAAAAAAEmU/VubO4sc6m6A/s800/RX1100+Full+Leather+Seats.jpg

I'm in 2 minds as to use them as they are with their 'patina' or do a full colour restoration on them. Happy days!

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Those seats are the real BIZ!;) ;)

[Stot]

Looking forward to that:)

Keep us all posted on it;)

Cheers

Been working on the CNC tool paths. This is a 40mm badge.

http://i4.ytimg.com/vi/ogdf8bXeeVM/mqdefault.jpg (www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogdf8bXeeVM)
Click to Youtube.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Took advantage of the sun today and made up the seat brackets. I used some 25x25x3 angle and welded the nuts to the bottom so I dont need to get underneath to fit or remove the seats.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3EYTgvaZ-Cg/UWrtf3jf-nI/AAAAAAAAEo4/aizC9a9FQ6g/s734/seatsmountsin1.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-StTb8fYDXbk/UWruDi60ANI/AAAAAAAAEpA/QAAecD9t2rc/s734/seatsmountsin2.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-380w-z-Ymnw/UWruI9AC_fI/AAAAAAAAEpI/yhBp_0FUoNk/s734/seatsmountsin3.JPG

The seats look great. and fit perfectly, even with the flared back section of the transmission tunnel. :cool:

I wouldn't recommend them for drivers taller than say 5'9". I'm 5'6" and the seat position for me is only 2 clicks forward from full back. Im gonna need a smaller steering wheel too!

[Stot]

I also dusted off the CNC machine and cut out a dash surround from some MDF for the mx5 dials to sit in.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4qPGK5x9uNA/UWruNbBwmlI/AAAAAAAAEpQ/9lX3uNnyrvY/s734/dash+surroundCNC.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Qev2RXMonj4/UWrwqL6Rg4I/AAAAAAAAEps/-lfTBhBB5cU/s734/dashsurround2.JPG

A few Youtube seconds of the CNC machine cutting it. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwOx_yykTlA)

It will be cut with rounded corners and a taper to the trans tunnel then covered in a red pleather.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Can anyone spot the deliberate mistake here?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ki9usMwic3Y/UWuj027FgHI/AAAAAAAAEqE/XUytfEnWp9A/s700/eye-eye.jpg

Wear goggles whenever grinding!

Cheers
Stot

[Dualist]

Been working on the CNC tool paths. This is a 40mm badge.

http://i4.ytimg.com/vi/ogdf8bXeeVM/mqdefault.jpg (www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogdf8bXeeVM)
Click to Youtube.

Cheers
Stot

Will you be making a lot of these.?? :D

[Stot]

Will you be making a lot of these.?? :D

Ha. CNC-ing them I could only do one for myself, I imagine the machine time for that would be 2 hours on my little rig but I work in a merchandising company so ill look into having a group buy on an enameled version. Only problem is I recon the minimum would be something like 100.

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Ha. CNC-ing them I could only do one for myself, I imagine the machine time for that would be 2 hours on my little rig but I work in a merchandising company so ill look into having a group buy on an enameled version. Only problem is I recon the minimum would be something like 100.

Cheers
Stot
Put me down for two!:)

Btw hope your eyeball is better- been there too,a steady handed doc yanked it out:eek:

[Stot]

Put me down for two!:)

Btw hope your eyeball is better- been there too,a steady handed doc yanked it out:eek:

I went to A&E the night before I posted the pic and the doctor said he would "dig it out with a needle" :eek: which he did, but not before accidentally pricking my nose with said needle... I still let him do it. :D

It is a lot better now but was horrible for a couple of days.

I think I would need to get 50 badges at around a tenner each to be able to place an order.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Back to the dash again...

I made a 3rd incarnation of my dials to try and get a better colour in them and also wanted better light distribution so on ebay I got..

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-71t-Yu22uok/UW766uw4jAI/AAAAAAAAEq4/-CowLt4vN3g/s672/dashlights1.JPG

..a 5m length of 12V warm white LED strip and cost just £10 delivered. Bargain.

I planned to stick it around the inside of the dash like this as it has adhesive back. Nothing will stick to that white plastic the dash is made of so I ended up drilling holes around the outside and it will be held in by thin white zipties.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-E9AaAVTjAPg/UW77NVTvcQI/AAAAAAAAErE/AOldE37J-b4/s672/dashlights2.JPG

The light and colour is bang on now. I will be machining some individual dial surrounds that will block out all the excess light you can see around, as the electrical tape is doing here on the speedo and tacho.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g2qMbluetJ4/UW77R3n0HDI/AAAAAAAAErQ/Q7N31MBwoWI/s672/dashlights3.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Milestone. :D

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JzqZCAW_Z6Q/UXQVle0ZFBI/AAAAAAAAEvI/ABz4kdIAcLA/s800/onwheels1.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PkZwK8Yw6c8/UXQVm81JOhI/AAAAAAAAEvQ/vC9Zl-McE5M/s800/onwheels2.jpg

Only on with threaded rod at the moment, and I need to weld in the front upper suspension mounts but it rolls to my other garage now. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[Numplumb]

Hi Stot been watching your build with interest and jealousy at how quick and cleaver you are, and what great ideas you have will be stealing some of them I think.

Question in your last photo it looks like your front bottom wishbones have a bend in them or is it just a camera angle?.

Regards Mick.

[Stot]

Hi Mick,

They do have a bend in them, they are Phil @ Talons design. The idea is to stop them fouling the steering rack at full steering lock and it certainly does that. There shouldn't be any real stress through the bend as most of the load will be at the two ends.

The front will sit lower once I get the proper mounts welded in.

Not sure about my rear shocks though. May need to send them back for some shorter ones. I ordered 14" Open 9.5 Closed which is fine for the front but I'm close to bump stop at the rear so may go for some 12" - 8.5"s

Cheers
Stot

[Johno]

Looking good Stot..:)
Must say you seem to be cracking on with it. I see you have plenty of clearance with those front wishbones.
Do you plan to use the wheels you have or opt for a new set.

Awesome work buddy ....keep it going.;)

[Stot]

Looking good Stot..:)
Must say you seem to be cracking on with it. I see you have plenty of clearance with those front wishbones.
Do you plan to use the wheels you have or opt for a new set.

Awesome work buddy ....keep it going.;)

Cheers. The wishbones do help a lot, fair play to Phil. Theres still too much lock on the steering though so I'm still thinking of shortening the rack, or at the least lock stops.

I have some nice 15" steel wheels to go on it to keep with that classic look but they are brand new so Ill keep with these for the build and swap them out when its nearing completion.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Got a tank made by Kev. Fitted the hardware to it last night but I might drill a hole and fit the MX5 breather also.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ufeFIXOFfyc/UXeEGkGrdhI/AAAAAAAAExI/ez-pa9UPe0I/w800/tank.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[PorkChop]

Hi Mick,

They do have a bend in them, they are Phil @ Talons design. The idea is to stop them fouling the steering rack at full steering lock and it certainly does that. There shouldn't be any real stress through the bend as most of the load will be at the two ends.

The front will sit lower once I get the proper mounts welded in.

Not sure about my rear shocks though. May need to send them back for some shorter ones. I ordered 14" Open 9.5 Closed which is fine for the front but I'm close to bump stop at the rear so may go for some 12" - 8.5"s

Cheers
Stot

The SSC design specced 12" open, 8" closed rear dampers :)

[Stot]

The SSC design specced 12" open, 8" closed rear dampers :)

Ill do that then. :D

I read this post (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=53704&postcount=37) so ordered 4 x 14". Im sure Rally Design will swap them out.

edit: Just looked through the Rev 3 Saturn guide and it doesn't mention shock lengths or shocks at all.

Cheers
Stot

[PorkChop]

The specs I have were obtained directly from SSC/NTS. The lower damper mounting is slightly more inboard than the Sierra; the Sierra mounting is part of the upright, whereas the MX-5 version is part of the upper wishbone. Therefore, you would expect the open and closed lengths to decrease.

The rear spring, whilst we're on the subject, was specced at 7" open, 250lb. From what Nathan told me, Protech (who supplied SSC/NTS) have these specs on their database.

[Stot]

Rally Design have kindly agreed to let me send them back and exchange them for some 11" x 8"s with 7" springs. :D

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

More Bonnet badge goodness today as it was raining out so I set my machine up and made a badge master out of delrin. It took 4 hours or so to get this..

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EVO-hJEylJM/UXxLjalu9LI/AAAAAAAAEx8/JgBIEVHf8Nc/w800/badgemaster.JPG

Did a time lapse video of it. (www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5KFDSQ7FQE). The final detail toolpath took 2 hours 47 mins. :eek:

Plan is to take a mold from this, and cast a pewter or model metal badge from the mold.

Cheers
Stot

[thailoz]

it would be nice if you could do a coloured resin badge.:)

[Stot]

it would be nice if you could do a coloured resin badge.:)

Ill infill the metal version with coloured gelcoat. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Been through a few options with the badge. The pewter option is proving difficult so Ive gone down the cold cast method which is powdered metal suspended in resin which when sanded and polished, looks like metal.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GEUZeEFD4NU/UYlto78d7dI/AAAAAAAAE30/CJlxfudvD1Y/w800/mold1.JPG

Take a silicone mold from your master.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nV5P8gr1fB4/UYltq2VN93I/AAAAAAAAE38/q92cOHOCIRg/w800/mold2coldcast.JPG

Fill with resin/metal mixture (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271188540587).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SqqUQ87s6ZE/UYlttMQrExI/AAAAAAAAE4E/1u1303AYlSo/w800/badgesfirst3.JPG

Sand and polish. The first one was poor so I used it to try out different sanding and polishing techniques, second one had a few bubbles and the last one was much better. Ready to infill with colour now.

I have a method of making a master without the CNC mill to test later this week which may be of interest to those of you that want to make your own.

Cheers
Stot

[thailoz]

I certainly would be interested in buying one from you .

[twinturbo]

They look darn good so far!

TT

[Stot]

I wont be able to make them for sale, sorry Thailoz. But I'm trying to make it easy for you guys to have a go yourselves!

The other method I was playing with on making a master to take a mold from is photopolymer plates (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330918077348). This is the way rubber stamps and printing plates are made. It is basically a plastic sheet covered in a UV curing resin.

You print a transparency of what you want and expose it onto the sheet so that the UV cures some areas an not others.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AV_82I9dFJQ/UYq_rwEsVgI/AAAAAAAAE5I/87X1VOWzpCU/w800/photopolymer1.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b9Ic6vFyjIo/UYq_ueguztI/AAAAAAAAE5Q/MvRDYxoV2uM/w800/photopolymer2.JPG

I had an old UV sun lamp which was greatm cured the resin in about a minute. You can do it with just a plain halogen lamp and it takes about 8 mins.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y847Z3aDJPY/UYq_w2emL6I/AAAAAAAAE5Y/XAJKF5aDCVQ/w800/photopolymer3.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XIlE2WD3gWM/UYq_zl4BK9I/AAAAAAAAE5g/nHa-SOjCLrU/w800/photopolymer4.JPG

Wash out the uncured areas and you have a relief version of the logo that you can take a silicone mold from.

I would probably stick it to a disc of mdf or something the right diameter for the badge so I can get a deeper overall mold.

Oh yeah.. Total time to make this one was 25 mins rather than 4 hours on the CNC, plus you can do more at the same time.

[Stot]

If you dont want to piss about with resin casting you could just fill the mold with clay, bake and paint!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gypDUTvhKTY/UYq-YO8jtUI/AAAAAAAAE4s/7pW50oRLeDg/w800/clay1.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tZXVibx3GTo/UYq-ZyvshZI/AAAAAAAAE40/Fdx022FRDFs/w800/clay2.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oOE_FDkcuBQ/UYq-bS7s9gI/AAAAAAAAE48/uSAaO365GW4/w800/clay3.JPG

If you want to be really posh you can buy a silver metal art clay that when fired turns to pure silver. Cost about £45 for enough to do a badge though.

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

I wont be able to make them for sale, sorry Thailoz. But I'm trying to make it easy for you guys to have a go yourselves!


Love to have a go!:)

Just one small snag---a minisnag-----snagette-----snagbach(thats a Welsh snag):o

ANYONE GUESS WHAT IT IS:confused:

[Stot]

Love to have a go!:)

Just one small snag---a minisnag-----snagette-----snagbach(thats a Welsh snag):o

ANYONE GUESS WHAT IT IS:confused:

Wife, money, time?

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Any thoughts on how you are going to mount your diff yet? It's been a topic of much debate in the past on which way to mount it.


I had a think about this at the weekend. I want to solid mount the nose as its solid mounted in the MX5. I was going to do a bracket like Phil has drawn in the past that welds into where the CP10s would be on the Sierra build.

While I was thinking about that I realised that I actually had a pair of CP10s I wont be using so thought I would come up with something using them.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5Ub3NhG5yYc/UZE63y-RiOI/AAAAAAAAE7s/Br0AJCphOmU/w800/FrontDiffMount1.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--EByKS-XBAw/UZE66b5n8ZI/AAAAAAAAE70/n2D6qLrtaik/w800/FrontDiffMount2.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nL9jLBXXynQ/UZE69PxAawI/AAAAAAAAE78/XW8Le-vYdD4/w800/FrontDiffMount3.JPG

I think it should work well, and it can be unbolted for diff access.

Cheers
Stot

[Talonmotorsport]

Love to have a go!:)

Just one small snag---a minisnag-----snagette-----snagbach(thats a Welsh snag):o

ANYONE GUESS WHAT IT IS:confused:

You don't have your own CNC milling machine and the software to run it to hand by chance???

[Stot]

You don't have your own CNC milling machine and the software to run it to hand by chance???

Thats why I made this post (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=90147&postcount=127)... :p

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

You don't have your own CNC milling machine and the software to run it to hand by chance???

Well guessed Phil:D

[Stot]

You don't have your own CNC milling machine and the software to run it to hand by chance???

Well guessed Phil

Just for you guys, heres how to do the rest of it without a CNC machine. :rolleyes:

I superglued the photopolymer versions onto some discs of MDF the right size and cut round them then wrapped some electrical tape around to give a clean edge.

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-yW7Q2UGdPXg/UZMZwHVFikI/AAAAAAAAE8M/qGRITazv300/w800/noncnc1.JPG

Put them in some molding forms and poured silicone onto them, left it to cure and demolded.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GGvG9fLOVXw/UZMaUCqFV8I/AAAAAAAAE8U/eXtyFGUOMZg/w800/noncnc2.JPG
http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CAy9ODI5OoU/UZMa2DpyCTI/AAAAAAAAE8c/_h6m451-yb8/w800/noncnc3.JPG

[Stot]

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0mrdabTEXpc/UZMa_Q8jakI/AAAAAAAAE8k/neR6EMK0vow/w869-h489-no/noncnc4.JPG
http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Qc-bTDSZSIQ/UZMbczum-RI/AAAAAAAAE8s/TjYbFTHW3GU/w869-h489-no/noncnc5.JPG

Perfect copies, a lot less finishing needed on casts from these molds as they are flat, my CNC one had a slight dome to it.

The larger one is for my wheel centre caps.

Heres the first casts out of the molds.

http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SPdsYQh7l8Y/UZMp_eKwebI/AAAAAAAAE88/CZp6zysg4NQ/w800/noncnc6.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Heres a wheel centre fitted. Spray it wheel silver again, jobs a good un.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lvn4IkDoy8g/UZPnGyrFMtI/AAAAAAAAE9M/btdJdsXwBEc/w800/hubcap.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Here my first attempt at colour infill. I filled with coloured gelcoat up the edges.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nTCtXlGPnfc/UZUwaV6fpGI/AAAAAAAAE-E/rZcUmQJJvW0/s800/firstcolourinfill2.JPG

Its really thick so hasn't really settled in the recesses. I'm going to try and overfill and sand down on the next ones.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Hi All,

I got some real car stuff done today. I wanted to mount the diff and get the engine in. I did OK.

I got the engine in and in position with the sump ~40mm below the bottom rail. It may be a little lower but thats OK. I can always shim it up under the rubbers If I have any problems and I plan to shorten the sump at some point.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W52q6eURqLM/UZeDf9UrSeI/AAAAAAAAE-Y/SAukSYCg16Q/s800/engineposition2.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w2InIBWui5w/UZeDf0poutI/AAAAAAAAE-c/KCwWLfs8KDc/s800/engineposition3.JPG

Saying that with the bonnet in position I couldnt have got it any higher anyway!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DnC7mIO2O0Q/UZeDgyncILI/AAAAAAAAE-k/dQc13aSwrpE/s800/engineposition4.JPG

Where it is positioned it is not fouling the steering column either.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vBgaibKhn4I/UZeDhdlYTrI/AAAAAAAAE-4/LARYdb4M1hA/s800/engineposition5.JPG

[Stot]

Diff went in easy enough.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g3hn3Tdgmig/UZevNo_1dII/AAAAAAAAFAo/NaOiACkk4Eo/s800/diffmountposition2.JPG

I will be putting 2 holes where the yellow circles are to bolt the nose hanger I made in.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KsgD6wAqSfQ/UZevN4a7HpI/AAAAAAAAFAs/HhjxR8QPqVo/s800/diffmountposition1.JPG

I could weld it but the diff is hard enough to get in and out of the cage as it is so being able to unbolt it will be great.

[Stot]

And then I made up the engine mounts. Had the plates cnc cut to my design.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hv6TTZn4Qw8/UZetSz3vwpI/AAAAAAAAFAM/152CTuPPbzU/s800/enginein4.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8xpehqT-OeY/UZetTXdU9QI/AAAAAAAAFAU/Ld6WgKQe864/s800/enginein5.JPG

So its rolling with engine for now. Mount the radiator and gearbox mount and I think im ready to strip it and paint or powder coat the chassis. :cool:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MM8GeZ9Fi6c/UZetRtTo61I/AAAAAAAAE_8/gh4S0eR2Ae4/s800/enginein1.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Johno]

Hi Stot,
Making some serious progress there.....:)
Just a couple of observations though, I see you haven't fitted your diagonals either side of the engine yet.

Also where your bracket for the nose of the diff mounts to the diff plate you may eventually get a fracture in the plate as there is no support there.
Just a thought..

[Stot]

Hi Johno,

Just a couple of observations though, I see you haven't fitted your diagonals either side of the engine yet.


You're right I left D1 and 2 til after the engine was in. I also need to do the headlight brackets before I paint it.

Also where your bracket for the nose of the diff mounts to the diff plate you may eventually get a fracture in the plate as there is no support there.
Just a thought..

I could put a diagonal back to D12 if it was under that much stress but I'm not sure it would be. Ill take another look at it. its only clamped on at the moment. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[robo]

Here my first attempt at colour infill. I filled with coloured gelcoat up the edges.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nTCtXlGPnfc/UZUwaV6fpGI/AAAAAAAAE-E/rZcUmQJJvW0/s800/firstcolourinfill2.JPG

Its really thick so hasn't really settled in the recesses. I'm going to try and overfill and sand down on the next ones.

Cheers
Stot

Brilliant:cool: . Stot why dont you use one of phils diff boxes. This mx5 diff mounting saga is making me nervous.

Bob

[Stot]

Brilliant:cool: . Stot why dont you use one of phils diff boxes. This mx5 diff mounting saga is making me nervous.

Bob

Cheers.

Phils diff box is to fit a sierra frame. It seems the better solution but too late now. :rolleyes:

This is the picture Phil did (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=87422&postcount=34) I was thinking of. Mimics the PPF.

Cheers
Stot

[Numplumb]

Hi Stot build looking great and coming along at breakneck speed,I notice that you have a four slot pulley on your crank have you read about these early short nose crank engines havering problems with the woodruff key? also when you say that you want to solid mount your diff like it is in the mx5 I don't think it's solid mounted to the chassis in the mx5 because the ppf is bolted to the gearbox not direct to the body, what do you think?.
Regards Mick.

[PorkChop]

The moment of the engine and gearbox (from my research, the engine and box weigh approx 175kg) would go a long way to stopping the diff rotating about the driveshaft axis.

[Stot]

I suppose the PPF did have some twist to it but I dont think it would be a as much as a rubber mount could allow.

The Sierra diff is solid mounted and has worked in plenty of locosts/roadsters, perhaps its a better idea to solid mount the MX5 diff all round. Replace the rubbers with some metal bushes and bolt the whole thing in solid.

Cheers
Stot

[PorkChop]

Replace the rubbers with some metal bushes and bolt the whole thing in solid.

This is what Roadrunner Racing do with their SR2.

[Stot]

This is what Roadrunner Racing do with their SR2.

I can easily turn up some bushes so it may be the be the best solution.

I got my floorpan cut out today. I cut it square and clamped it up to my chassis, drew round it and cut it out with some air shears.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-98_KibDXHDg/UZ0W7Vx2n0I/AAAAAAAAFBo/RoHNKIMbUjQ/s800/floor1.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s-yB34fTj2g/UZ0W7uEZA7I/AAAAAAAAFBk/JyMUGzdwitk/s800/floor2.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cd9r_fttcr8/UZ0W9Dgxt5I/AAAAAAAAFB8/1P4LCrlVo34/s800/floor6.JPG

Turned out nicely, another part ready to be fitted when the painting is done.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Busy again.. Welded in my gearbox mount using the original MX5 engine mount.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-krvYlMzq2Pc/UaJgFBlDYpI/AAAAAAAAFCk/KWfWTvYy6SU/s800/gearbox%2520mount.JPG

A bit over done maybe but it was some pieces of 3mm plate I had and it works.

Also re-thunk my diff nose bracket. I welded a 5mm tab onto the chassis and changed the axis so the forces are feeding through more braced areas.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4sr_YlMBJHQ/UaJgHSZe6CI/AAAAAAAAFCw/8vcCE58CNFw/s800/newaxis2.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UEXquew8qaM/UaJgGtR0OlI/AAAAAAAAFCs/TN1zvcuU1zY/s800/newaxis1.JPG

Ignore the dodgy bolts I need to order a bundle of M12 x 25s.

[Stot]

I also started on the panels. Im using cardboard to make templates then cut out of some sheet.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-neyDrGAOHzw/UaJgIa_w_CI/AAAAAAAAFC8/w55R1XfFCEg/s800/panel1.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zGC9NXbj5So/UaJgI3bTonI/AAAAAAAAFDA/WhWOWl5W0lU/s800/panel2.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AxwB47MXFyg/UaJgJJyy53I/AAAAAAAAFDI/utvS8SMW3fQ/s800/panel3.JPG

And then I stopped because I should spend some time with my wife.... :D

Cheers
Stot

[robo]

I like the way that the crossmember and uprights have tied up with the gearbox mounts.:cool:

Bob

[Stot]

Got the wife to paint my chassis for me today. :D

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--40wh-Pb-ME/Uatze0jAyaI/AAAAAAAAFH4/syxCODQ-xrQ/w800/paintchassis2.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ubssgLl_iw8/UatzexqOsTI/AAAAAAAAFHs/zzIJjaUU3r0/w800/paintchassis3.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[mgglep]

Must be love stot lol

[Talonmotorsport]

who wants to tell him .... all together now "she's missed a bit!"

[TheArf]

How the heel did you manage that

Arfon

[Stot]

who wants to tell him .... all together now "she's missed a bit!"

Ha... Actually she did miss one bit BUT its on the interior side of the dash so ill let her off.

Its done in Epoxy Mastic chassis paint and we stippled it rather than leave brush strokes. Looks like a rollered finish.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Im on a go slow at the moment until my chassis fully cures but I got this delivered today.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sAUyiqlnPGg/UbitwC7IfmI/AAAAAAAAFXA/v91J2vB4y8A/w800/Propshaft.JPG

Firm down the road wanted £100+vat to shorten and £50+vat per UJ to replace. :eek:

Dunning and Fairbank quoted £85 + £12 carriage + VAT to shorten, new UJs and balance.

Turned out it didnt need new UJs so £45 + carriage + VAT. Bargain! :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Got my floor fitted!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-he0XdOeBMt0/Ubx3gu0BEiI/AAAAAAAAFYA/2Zidz1QUNWQ/w800/floorfitting1.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I0qnRzWQOtA/Ubx3g0RbC7I/AAAAAAAAFYM/qQ8e1r5yjlo/w800/floorfitting2.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vfvRVlhVqKM/Ubx3g2s0eJI/AAAAAAAAFYI/5F6XQtBMYqs/w800/floorfitting3.JPG

I didnt use clecos, I drilled holes at every tube intersection to start and then riveted it down at 4 corners before drilling all the other holes. Drilled the 4 rivets out to clean up/deburr then sikaflexed the chassis plonked the sheet on top and riveted all round.

4 and a half hours to drill and deburr 264 holes then PU and rivet 264 rivets. Phew.

Cheers
Stot

[twinturbo]

I was dreading doing the floor, but it was easy appart from the the adhesive being almost solid in the tube.

I made a jig out of a piece of angle iron with holes drilled at intervals. this was then moved allong the rails and used to drill the floor and chassis. worked a treat.

TT

[Stot]

Been spending some after work time on some bits while the chassis is up on legs still.

Trial fitting and trimming the bodywork and fitting in the pedal box. With the nice padded seats the pedals are in just the right place for me. :cool:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e9WRmmniz0I/UcKpRPLqLuI/AAAAAAAAFa0/l4KItwB8gJc/w800/pedals1.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cbqpRJkMxjM/UcKpRIPoIbI/AAAAAAAAFa8/WQLF8z05YMU/w800/pedals2.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h0gFp-Eg0K8/UcKpREf7dxI/AAAAAAAAFa4/tCBGMTI_8UM/w800/pedals3.JPG

I may be putting a little too much trust in those table legs though....

Cheers
Stot

[twinturbo]

I think we should have a Monster Truck 7 Build :)

TT

[jason 82]

Top job stot. You and Johno have got the 2 best builds I have seen. You should be really proud !

[voucht]

Looks very good indeed!
What seats are they? They look very nice. any references?
Thanks.

[Stot]

Thanks guys. I must say that Johnos and many others finish will be leagues ahead of mine, mine is all smoke and mirrors. ;) I think it will be one of the quickest builds though!

Voucht, the seats are full leather RX1110s from Interiors Seating (http://www.interiorsseating.co.uk/worldclassseating/RX1110.html). Not cheap to buy new but I picked the pair up second hand for £160. Mamba baby cub (http://www.midlandwheels.com/Shop/P-1453-Mamba-Baby-Cub-Seat---Black-Vinyl-/-Black-Piping.html) seats are similar but only available black vinyl.

Cheers
Stot

[voucht]

Thank you for the links and the tips. This midland wheels website has very good prices on seats... and wheels. Might make a grouped order when it is time :)
Thanks.

[Stot]

I think we should have a Monster Truck 7 Build :)

TT

Thats do-able..

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_wDB6vhv5R0/UcRz1cfyobI/AAAAAAAAFdA/kHJ6R9OmwA8/w800/Monter7.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[davidimurray]

Stot, are you using the book pedal box. I wasn't very happy with mine as I got over 1mm of flex at the master cylinder. Doesn't sound like much, but it is quite a bit at the actual pedal. I added an angle across the pedal box, and angles either side that hook around the chassis rail. I also added a stiffener under the floor as well. Made quite a difference and the pedal felt less spongy afterwards.

[Stot]

Stot, are you using the book pedal box. I wasn't very happy with mine as I got over 1mm of flex at the master cylinder. Doesn't sound like much, but it is quite a bit at the actual pedal. I added an angle across the pedal box, and angles either side that hook around the chassis rail. I also added a stiffener under the floor as well. Made quite a difference and the pedal felt less spongy afterwards.

The pedal box is standard however my CP16 is made from 3mm plate instead of the book 1mm so I don't expect to see too much flex but ill be sure to check, thanks.

Cheers
Stot

[Dualist]

I love those seats :eek:

[Stot]

Trying to work on my rollbar between showers. Got the hoop tacked onto the mounting plates and fettled my crossmember fishmouths and harness bosses.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cSafC2PKtb8/UcXFenVL6BI/AAAAAAAAFd8/cDt8-h04oGg/w800/rollbar1.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1zENCwFc0LA/UcXFep1UX4I/AAAAAAAAFeE/V0Td4VAObU8/w800/crossbar1.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nEmM6ql8pCM/UcXFes1CdQI/AAAAAAAAFeA/JEy6xpi9d2c/w800/crossbar2.JPG

I'm so glad I have a mill!

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

rain shine rain shine...

I did my back struts too. Remember the plans im following...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JOPBQVsv9vU/Uac4ELLqwiI/AAAAAAAAFEs/gwggZTgAlxk/w800/rollbar2.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JbHid2Rn8tw/UcXZa7LPFAI/AAAAAAAAFfc/00z7zMBhXng/w800/rollbar2.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FiVNGFK5AZ4/UcXZa-Pe8oI/AAAAAAAAFfY/3dO1GsdEqQw/w800/rollbar3.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-m0TbXGF6aZo/UcXZbF8iSiI/AAAAAAAAFfg/aeb_IQoh9tA/w800/rollbar4.JPG

They mount into suspension brackets welded onto the back of the diff cage because I'm using a GRP tub and don't have the rear tub framework.

The angle ends up being shallower than most but I figure that had I gone to the bottom rail on the outer corner like many GRP tub people have I would have longer and so more flexible struts but at a slightly deeper angle, maybe another 10 degrees or so. I think this should be just as stiff as that arrangement overall.

Cheers
Stot

[SeriesLandy]

Ifi can give you only 1 bit of advice, listen to this.
Fully weld the cross brace, let it cool then weld the bottom plates on the roll bar.
This should limit the amount of shrinkage and the pita it is to align the bolt holes!!

[twinturbo]

That's inspired me to do my back stays. I was going to put them on the uprights but the thought of cutting a compound fisheye was putting me off. Seeing how you have done it simplifies it no end.

TT

[Johno]

Looking good Stot,:)
Good idea with the roll bar support stays.
I do like the tyre and wheel choice you made but I think you might have a problem regarding wheel arches available....:D
Top quality work as always and you are flying through your build, (do you sleep)...:eek:

Well keep the photos coming as it's a pleasure to see what new innervations you are coming up with next.

[Stot]

Ifi can give you only 1 bit of advice, listen to this.
Fully weld the cross brace, let it cool then weld the bottom plates on the roll bar.
This should limit the amount of shrinkage and the pita it is to align the bolt holes!!
Good tip. Ill cut them off when im done tacking up and redo them at the end. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Ifi can give you only 1 bit of advice, listen to this.
Fully weld the cross brace, let it cool then weld the bottom plates on the roll bar.
This should limit the amount of shrinkage and the pita it is to align the bolt holes!!

This worked like a charm. Once I had fully welded everything else but the base plates there was no way I would have got all bolts in. cut the tacks and re positioned them all and it fits like a glove. :cool:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k6p-lfaDAVU/UcbiroAbSpI/AAAAAAAAFj8/fItxWvYSNMs/w800/rollbar7.JPG

That's inspired me to do my back stays. I was going to put them on the uprights but the thought of cutting a compound fisheye was putting me off. Seeing how you have done it simplifies it no end.

TT

Glad to get you going on it again TT. I added crush tubes to the bottom of the struts so I can bolt them up good and tight with some M12 x 60 bolts rather than the 70mm ones showing here..

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FXS0PsIYD8Y/UcboxYfD7GI/AAAAAAAAFlI/_9IIg7xx0Q0/w800/backstays1.JPG

And Johno, I catch up on my sleep at work..... :D

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

I do like the tyre and wheel choice you made but I think you might have a problem regarding wheel arches available....:D

I figured I could use a couple of GRP bathtubs cut in half.

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

I think you have a little army of elves helping you out at the rate this build is coming along.:) Where did you get you bodywork from? And how much was it? Not really an option for me but I am curious.

[Stot]

I think you have a little army of elves helping you out at the rate this build is coming along.:) Where did you get you bodywork from? And how much was it? Not really an option for me but I am curious.

Just me! (and my wife sometimes).

Its an Equinox bodykit, £795. I figured that once I had purchased the nose/scuttle/wings and the aluminum and then went through the process of painting it how I wanted I wouldn't be far off that cost for the bodywork.

It does have its own inherent issues. The side panels for example because they are pre-formed don't conform to the variations in my chassis rails, so I have a little packing to do on it to fit it right.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

The elves have been busy again..

Got the brake lines all in position. Just need to be clipped down now.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/--Mnm2Odwctc/UdSVVPNh9vI/AAAAAAAAFo8/YKmT0NfY3W0/w800/brakelines3.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7_osOZ-a46s/UdSVVEwL8nI/AAAAAAAAFok/qJNrzMGef9w/w800/brakelines2.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xxoWKvDoJ18/UdSVWNpVenI/AAAAAAAAFo0/bUGYBf_G6xU/w800/brakelines5.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-DWJL5-T_voQ/UdSVWXwyWuI/AAAAAAAAFpA/WB2XnyndlXw/w800brakelines6.JPG

Next job is to paint the roll bar and the rest of the wishbones and get it back on its wheels!

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Busy day.

I got my brake lines secured in place.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6NvwjKbK5IE/Udhc_FXoX9I/AAAAAAAAF8c/rT0AgbAVxqk/w800/brakelines8.JPG

I got the rest of my bits painted, including the rollbar.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SkL2dsTdIwM/UdhduknmNLI/AAAAAAAAF9s/A2s1midAQqg/w800/rollbar9.JPG

And I got all my carpet pieces cut to size.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pSb5RIDiWTA/UdhdT-R4v_I/AAAAAAAAF9A/8OtH3UMI_kQ/w800/carpet1.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F6x2C7Chr3k/UdhdUJYnpuI/AAAAAAAAF9E/eBNgn25eRTw/w800/carpet3.JPG

My build is not A-B-C more A-R-L-C but I figure that if I cant do the 'next' step in the build I may as well do 'a' step in the build rather than sit around.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Had a bbq with my family today and my dad kindly brought along his sewing machine so I can add some edging to areas of my carpet like down the trans tunnel and the top of the seat back.

I had a few practice runs to figure out the best way to do the edging.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z0RGx-4udeE/Udmwg5JYzpI/AAAAAAAAGAQ/XDvmwZwGusw/w800/carpet4.JPG

Think I have a winner.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6C4HrasdHZU/UdmwfaEW3fI/AAAAAAAAGAI/pVCGvNzmq9M/w800/carpet6.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Talonmotorsport]

Unless I have missed the part where you said what the carpet was I would be using Marine carpet, otherwise it will start rotting and stinking from the first time it gets wet and it will get wet.

[Stot]

Unless I have missed the part where you said what the carpet was I would be using Marine carpet, otherwise it will start rotting and stinking from the first time it gets wet and it will get wet.

You're right Phil I didnt say but it is a rot proof carpet from these guys. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180586256243) Not the cheapest stuff but nice and should last some years.

Cheers
Stot

[Not Anumber]

do you use any backing or underlay or glue the carpet directly to the metal ?

[Stot]

do you use any backing or underlay or glue the carpet directly to the metal ?

I will be glueing direct to the metal on this one with a spray upholstery glue.

The edges of the trans tunnel will be trimmed with the leather and then use press studs to attach to the trans top so I can remove it easilly if I need access to the tunnel.

I used a felt underlay in my Jester but dont think I needed it, or need it for this car. If I were building a Cobra or the like I would felt for sure to give that extra plush feel.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Had more of a play with the sewing machine today.

I'm going to cover my interior side panels with leather and have a pelmet coming off the top of it over the top of the side panels to finish them.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-iDZVEjx3YJE/UdxzH46gUGI/AAAAAAAAGFU/OI44Jn0MXYA/w800/test-interior-side-panels.JPG

Really happy with how the test went, the finished item should look smart. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[jason 82]

Most people have horse power stot ! Not cow power. Anything to be different. :D that is one tidy bit of upholstery there, come on then, when are you opening the one stop stot shop ? Selling locost badges, to upholstery ! Seriously, well done son, that is going to be a car worthy of a magazine front cover. :p

[skov]

Nice needlework Stot :cool:
I'm glad I'm not the only one in touch with my feminine side :D

[Stot]

I'm glad I'm not the only one in touch with my feminine side :D

Its a machine isn't it? ;)

I had a day off yesterday so got quite a bit of the interior trim sorted.

Carpets.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--cpL_U1rGU8/Ud-x5i1MMeI/AAAAAAAAGIU/7iI4gVDhK6E/w800/carpet8.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AGN_ddkIk5w/Ud-x5hwSVHI/AAAAAAAAGIY/1HF8BV3Sc6g/w800/carpet9.JPG

[Stot]

And the drivers side panel

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YOLBZ8sahek/Ud-x6DAKmfI/AAAAAAAAGIs/r2M82089l_s/w800/sidepanel1.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Es4E2s5NKd4/Ud-x6QgdL7I/AAAAAAAAGIw/PQ44umjXJOs/w800/sidepanel2.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j9CYvDBf08I/Ud-x6r1hT1I/AAAAAAAAGIo/YGznM8HRYRQ/w800/sidepanel3.JPG

Needs some press studs on the lapels to hold it in place but ill do that when all the bodywork is final fitted.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Another day off so paneled most of the trans tunnel.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p_Pixxm1I44/UeASGQTpzMI/AAAAAAAAGLQ/xqjSwPw-BWo/w800/panel4.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HnGenocBAW4/UeASIO148tI/AAAAAAAAGLk/Ee6BKJIdvrs/w800/carpet10.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[ayjay]

Carpet slippers only in there folks:D :D :D

[jason 82]

Beutiful job ! You should be really proud. :D

[Johno]

Looking really good there Stot....:cool: :cool:
At this rate you'll be on the road soon..

[jason 82]

Hi my name is Jason, and this is THE HAYNES ROADSTER KIT CAR FORUM ! You can't go drifting in some traffic report son. Thanks for the advice, your straight jacket is by the front door !:D

[Stot]

Sorted my tunnel top carpet this morning.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WTMlNPW4NlA/UeKxiLFwF8I/AAAAAAAAGMo/cae1L5IvAz0/w800/carpet12.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-An_Rsxse7MY/UeKxiCYP_KI/AAAAAAAAGMs/U8GfYp_E8N4/w800/carpet13.JPG

It will eventually be held on with press studs rather than sellotape...

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

One more update for today. Got it back on its wheels and the engine back in place so it looks like a car again. :cool:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-phgMq2p2Vog/UeMJLvfZ2CI/AAAAAAAAGOI/y3TzzOnVBos/w800/lookslikeacar3.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pBV43FHRVj4/UeMIsAmco0I/AAAAAAAAGNw/ORES0gZ9eYs/w800/lookslikeacar2.JPG

Now the electrics....:(

Cheers
Stot

[alga]

Wow, the carpet makes such a difference to the look of the car! I love your colour scheme, classic.

[Stot]

Thanks Alga, Its coming together as I had imagined it. Even managed to nab a nice 12.5" wooden steering wheel on ebay for post IVA. :cool:

However, the 'time off work' onslaught continues. I stripped this lot out of my loom.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Rhfv67U71mY/UeWOIryKPGI/AAAAAAAAGS8/aC7mI9p9bQQ/w800/electrics1a.JPG

Fitted the scuttle upper and bulkhead in too. I have made them both removable held on with rivnuts.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O7oO8c_ZmC0/UeWM6DNvuSI/AAAAAAAAGSQ/M0fbFCQIDlw/w800/electrics1.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0AGTg0nkpdY/UeWM6MeK_TI/AAAAAAAAGSI/q7mxJjCVYro/w800/electrics3.JPG

It even turned over, some fuel and the AFM and it may even start!

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Positioned one of the headlights and front clams today. Dont think this will get through IVA.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vqWVh4H2Ics/Ueag7j1_VUI/AAAAAAAAGVQ/XUBZxjScPiA/w800/wings1.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uWeSiZqqlgc/Ueag82tbBmI/AAAAAAAAGV0/GgIT5KXC1Qw/w800/wings6.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Lqn78_A3rCs/Ueag8uLOBBI/AAAAAAAAGVw/q63y4vCSgl4/w800/wings5.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sRPl1np7qj0/Ueag9vFcysI/AAAAAAAAGV8/SmycjD3fe9Y/w800/wings7.JPG

I wouldn't be able to move them any further forward as you can see and the wing only just gets to 30 degree forward at its tip so not covering the full tread width.

If any kind soul wants to lend me a pair of cycle wings and brackets for my test when I eventually book it let me know.

Cheers
Stot

[Enoch]

You, Sir are a genius. That car is looking well sweet.:)

[Stot]

Thanks Enoch.

Took another look at my wings, I realised I need to leave room for the silencer.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P5jtrr_KMho/UemQ5MmX3UI/AAAAAAAAGXs/qNxvBtz3LjI/w800/wings11.JPG

I raised the headlights up an inch and a half I can get a better angle on the wing with room for the silencer to the point where I believe it should be able to pass IVA.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ua78mfM77q8/UemQ59As2fI/AAAAAAAAGX8/Qw3CQq9fzog/w800/wings9.JPG

Cut my dash center panel too.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FowkpF2E8RI/UemRnyT0OiI/AAAAAAAAGY0/KafdHTYOXKE/w800/dash1.JPG

I may end up with a standard MX5 dash for IVA and put this on afterwards because of possible radius issues around the edges unless I can come up with something.

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Mmm, I'm not sure but this guy might be able to help you out...

http://davecullen.com/brokeback/daily/TDS_2009/Jan/TV_ThePrisonerNumber6.jpg

[Stot]

He said to put the car in one of these for IVA and all radius issues are solved.

http://images1.cliqueclack.com/tv/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/prisoner-balloon-425x324.png

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Haha, like the dash by the way, looks very OEM!

[rpjg1975]

If you cover your mdf in sleepmat but continue the sleepmat round the edge and fix to rear making a soft edge you can eliminate the radius problem :D

1702

This is my second attempt at my dash, think I have it so I like it now :eek:

Russ

[Stot]

If you cover your mdf in sleepmat but continue the sleepmat round the edge and fix to rear making a soft edge you can eliminate the radius problem :D

1702

This is my second attempt at my dash, think I have it so I like it now :eek:

Russ

Hi Russ,

That will work for the main edges, but the way my dials are mounted I wont be able to do that round the edges of the dials as it would end up too 'plump'.

I may do it how I plan and put a perspex cover over the dials. Or I may be able to use Kevs idea and do rings of copper tubing as bezzels to give a radius.

Cheers
Stot

[rpjg1975]

Ah gotcha, just looked closer and see what u mean...could be a bit awkward. Any way u could mount your dials actually in the mdf?

Russ

[Johno]

Hi Stot,
Blooming heck mate you on a mission or what.......:D
At this rate It'll be done next week....:eek: :eek:
Cars looking great with many fresh ideas.
As you are going the "retro" look are you planning to fit a windscreen or Brooklands type aeroscreen post IVA.

[Stot]

Hi Stot,
Blooming heck mate you on a mission or what.......:D
At this rate It'll be done next week....:eek:
Cars looking great with many fresh ideas.
As you are going the "retro" look are you planning to fit a windscreen or Brooklands type aeroscreen post IVA.

Hi Johno,

I actually should have a first start tomorrow! Its got my full extra curricular attention anyway. ;)

I want a full windscreen post IVA, my wife wont want to be wearing goggles. :D I picked up a mini windscreen wiper set with stainless blades for £15 and the electrics are all still there for it so it should be a straight forward addition and cheaper than the Brooklands aeros overall I recon.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

I actually should have a first start tomorrow!

And as if by magic...

http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/uIYnb58toIw/mqdefault.jpg
Haynes Roadster MX5 First Start (www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIYnb58toIw)

I can get on with battoning down the electrics now I know it runs. :D

Cheers
Stot

[skov]

Nice one Stot!

[alga]

Well done! With your pace you should be enjoying the rides before the winter sets in.

[davidimurray]

Looking good.bet you must be pleased with that won't be long before you are on the road.

[Stot]

Hopefully get my diff and prop in this weekend.

I decided that as the Sierra build solid mounts the diff then the MX5 diff could be solid mounted too. The main reason for the diff being on rubbers in the MX5 in the first place is to stop the transfer of diff noise into the chassis. Curtailing noises aren't such a consideration on a 7 style kit car.

In preparation I removed the rubber diff bushes and made up these.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vo1vE0f1_LU/UfDBhV5Ls8I/AAAAAAAAGdE/1udHmQrLbns/w800/DiffBush3.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2SHVX8R_0PI/UfA3vyK6Z-I/AAAAAAAAGac/9rqdM202M14/w800/DiffBush2.JPG

With the nose being solid mounted too hopefully it will stay solid and intact.

Cheers
Stot

[TheArf]

Just been looking at your start up video, congratulations on a major milestone, I seem to remember seeing somewhere that for the IVA your steering wheel cannot have holes or slots, I maybe wrong but just double check would hate you to fail on something stupid like that, that's why most leave on the original wheel then swap it post IVA

Arfon

[Stot]

Cheers Arfon. I have the original momo from the MX5 that has a face pad on it so ill chuck that on for IVA. :cool:

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mtgxOno3jn1YLMXe_UIk9cQ.jpg

The wood one needs a refurb anyway but its only 12.5" so will suit the car a lot better, especially once the wood efect dash is in.

Cheers
Stot

[TheArf]

Not knocking it mate looks sound I haven't even thought about steering wheel yet

Arfon

[Stot]

Mounted up my diff tonight. When I built the chassis I positioned the diff plates by bolting them to the diff, clamping them up in position and then tacking the plates down. Now that I have solid bushes with no play and...

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--yqPbdncSSI/UfLP0D7TZDI/AAAAAAAAGjg/U8FJJLfNzGc/w800/mountDiff2.JPG

...the holes are of course slightly out.

Nothing a rotary burr cant sort.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gn1Sw2Ow2Zc/UfLP0FIGa1I/AAAAAAAAGjc/cthfJBTEWu0/w800/mountDiff3.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3wC43Efo70U/UfLP0iEWSMI/AAAAAAAAGj4/faLpykmYgJs/w800/mountDiff4.JPG

[Stot]

Very solid in there now.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FnbNoMowuPQ/UfLP02xkgbI/AAAAAAAAGjk/Lwqe0jfbiIM/w800/mountDiff5.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XAeBUYiW9L0/UfLP1OSfooI/AAAAAAAAGj0/jTdkPgx4VxU/w800/mountDiff6.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MJJC6FHWjRU/UfLP1mCbBhI/AAAAAAAAGj8/AX_jNMUuqz8/w800/mountDiff7.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VI4ac4X5LEQ/UfLP2mE_sUI/AAAAAAAAGkM/5OYeID6f5us/w800/mountDiff9.JPG

I need to adjust my nose bracket now too, again because there is no play and I made the nose bracket when there was play, the holes don't line up.

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Altered my nose bracket to fit, it just needed to be about 4-5mm shorter.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yvd5MpptFww/UfPqOga1LtI/AAAAAAAAGlk/IvN2DsJZgkw/w800/NewNose1.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MzjQjMIttA0/UfPqOizfO8I/AAAAAAAAGlo/Wwoz9NghrQo/w800/NewNose2.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iM5EVbKIAYA/UfPqOgbwFiI/AAAAAAAAGlg/8BC1GjyOj_Q/w800/NewNose3.JPG

Proper sized bolts and some spray paint will finish it off. :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[twinturbo]

Moving on quickly!

Good work.

TT

[Stot]

Cheers TT. Got to try and do 'something' every day.

I made up some brackets to hold my handbrake cables in place. I wanted to bolt them directly to the diff bolt which is 12mm and although the original MX5 brackets could just handle a 12mm hole, they twisted to buggery when I tried to drill them.

Cut these out on the CNC Mill.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VGqYiwdvcgk/UfTv-zwry2I/AAAAAAAAGn0/td_BmQPCT_o/w800/HandbrakeCableBracket1.JPG

I annealed the center section using sharpie marks as indicators. The threaded rod and vice are acting as a heat sinks so the ring parts don't anneal.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ddm4NO9Xv-Y/UfTv_JbkdcI/AAAAAAAAGn8/fqAFHY9rSUo/w800/HandbrakeCableBracket3.JPG

The tab at the end will bend round and conform to the nut/bolt head when fitted so that needs annealing too.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UQSSpZt5dM4/UfTv_vS_O-I/AAAAAAAAGoU/LZjN6hNe6cM/w800/HandbrakeCableBracket4.JPG

Then I bent it in half round a form then put the threaded rod thorough it and tightened 2 sockets on it to pinch it into shape.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g3busozZmN4/UfTwAL77v3I/AAAAAAAAGoM/XbNrUWyNzdc/w800/HandbrakeCableBracket5.JPG

[Stot]

And this is what I ended up with.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pAMzKrf7rlw/UfTwAW-v-nI/AAAAAAAAGoc/sYCTrnftNTY/w800/HandbrakeCableBracket6.JPG

I had to open them up and re-pinch them to get them on the cables.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mESVC2mU8BE/UfTwA-yzV5I/AAAAAAAAGos/yKmSWSc9RpQ/w800/HandbrakeCableBracket7.JPG

And then bolted them to the underside of the diff bushes.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l-OQnvbAMas/UfTwBYJ1AEI/AAAAAAAAGoo/QF-sYqF5eAI/w800/HandbrakeCableBracket8.JPG

Jobs a good un.

Cheers
Stot

[K4KEV]

Luv it bud.....you think exactly along the lines that I do and it is refreshing for me to see it somewhere else being done.:cool: :cool:

[Stot]

Thanks Kev. Its good to find alternative solutions so I can use my toys.

Speaking of which. I adapted my handbrake caliper mounts, rather than cuting and welding them I drilled a new hole and re profiled the stops.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-oIwmJ0vhv2A/UfVQfkcNfRI/AAAAAAAAGsc/Ydk_QRwU7AQ/w800/Handbrake+CaliperBrackets1.JPG

When mounted up they give me plenty of clearance from the seat back.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XuzlbnhVoDw/UfVQgixX4lI/AAAAAAAAGs0/vkcuUTwniNU/w800/Handbrake+CaliperBrackets5.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sLjpZ-uEmxM/UfVQhEcHUuI/AAAAAAAAGtA/sKYCNwSvv5Y/w800/Handbrake+CaliperBrackets7.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

I bought this this week for my post IVA build. £15. Who can guess why? :D

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nvkokSsqCYw/UfjXItFHohI/AAAAAAAAGyA/Xt5jK3P7Y8M/w800/Radiator1.jpg

Cheers
Stot

[K4KEV]

PHU...personal heater unit.:D

[Stot]

PHU...personal heater unit.:D

And with a DPDT switch it can act as demister too. :cool:

Pretty much the same thing as one of these (http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=189).

Cheers
Stot

[Stot]

Got my new wheels booted up with some Toyo Proxes TR1s so I trial fitted them.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n0R2_90DIzw/Ufq4sUMw2CI/AAAAAAAAG34/n-v8W4AW60Q/w800/NewWheels3.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-arR_fXHzcqs/Ufq4tHalxyI/AAAAAAAAG4E/anSIbVEfBS0/w800/NewWheels4.JPG

The hub caps still have to have the logo added to them properly but I think they go well with the classic look.

Cheers
Stot

[jps]

I wa snt sure about the clam wing look, but those pics make your car look MINT!

[TheArf]

Well tidy

Arfon

[Stot]

Cheers guys.

I made my hub caps up properly over the past couple of days. I had done a badge in the center of the hubcaps before...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lvn4IkDoy8g/UZPnGyrFMtI/AAAAAAAAE9M/btdJdsXwBEc/w800/hubcap.JPG

...but I wasn't happy with the look so decided rather than gluing a badge into the hole, I would cast a slightly smaller badge directly into the hubcap.

Using one of my nose badge casts and some body filler I made up a master hub cap and took a silicone mold from it. By placing a hub cap with a hole in it in the mold I could cast the badge directly onto the hubcap.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BkUTl8SC9Bw/Uf0MMBCdpUI/AAAAAAAAG9s/dWnrxodkHCc/w800/HubCaps1.JPG

This is the various stages of the casting from empty hub cap to a sanded smooth hub cap with logo.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-D8q4bCbhN8k/Uf0MMGHx0SI/AAAAAAAAG9Q/Wlw_CNeWG40/w800/HubCaps2.JPG

[Stot]

Then all I had to do was paint them, with some plastic filler primer, white primer, silver wheel paint and lacquer.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tAi7WAuU4NE/Uf0MM1iQzUI/AAAAAAAAG9k/YDiE-kX8Niw/w800/HubCaps4.JPG
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3YJtVbj9UpM/Uf0MNPhT7NI/AAAAAAAAG9w/mtce07wyH1k/w800/HubCaps5.JPG
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MCdfluVRgiE/Uf0MNnpCqvI/AAAAAAAAG94/qbStMM7Y4JI/w800/HubCaps6.JPG

The final colour match isn't great so I may try and find a better silver, but they didn't turn out bad!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kErxmW5gA34/Uf0MNy8kVeI/AAAAAAAAG98/Gx_qmocxq20/w800/HubCaps7.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[K4KEV]

very nice touch Stot and still making good progress, keep it up bud

[twinturbo]

Very trick ;)

TT

[Stot]

Its the little things that make them 'yours'. :D

Cheers
Stot

[davidimurray]

Looks brilliant Stot

[Johno]

Nice work Stot...:cool:
Me thinks you have too much time on your hands to keep coming up with so many new ideas...:D
Love your work just keep em coming buddy...:cool: :cool:

[Stot]

I'm fitting my flexi lines at the moment, I ordered them from Sylvain but I measured my rears wrong.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XpvTleKT4wU/UgHe6oQpouI/AAAAAAAAHBg/6OqpHuSgkiY/w800/flexiLines7.JPG

2 choices. Buy new rear lines or reposition the bracket and make new hard lines. One is free if you have extra copper line and the other isn't so this is what I ended up with.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mOdwtyMkj_c/UgHe6nrilzI/AAAAAAAAHBo/EMxm-_rR51s/w800/flexiLines8.JPG

Only problem is that I am going directly into the caliper with a fixed fitting rather than using a banjo and when the line is compressed it gets closer to the seat back. I angled the bulkhead bracket toward the rear slightly to help it want to bend away from the seat back.

The rear caliper on the MX5 doesn't have a 'seat' at the bottom of the inlet so the only a fixed fitting or banjo will work as they can seal with copper washers, an angled swivel wont.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-55AyBdjjmjA/UgHe7HGuKVI/AAAAAAAAHBw/6dvAE24UymU/w800/flexiLines9.JPG

It doesn't touch so It should be fine but it may settle in so Ill have to keep an eye on it.

None of this is Sylvains fault, I measured wrong in the first place. The lines are great and are as good as any quality UK made, crimped lines.

Front is great though.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vs7HYI4Pd4g/Ufa2aXamu2I/AAAAAAAAGvU/PP1BnlknAic/w800/flexiLines5.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[Davidbolam]

Your car is coming along there really nicely. I had to re order my rear flexi hoses as well this week as they were too short! I used russ from furore. Ordered them at 3 pm and they were delivered by the postie the next day.

David

[voucht]

I'm really sorry for the bad planning on the rear lines. They look to fit OK now, but if I can do anything, do not hesitate to send me a PM.

BTW, your car looks stunning, and the last things you did with the wheel caps, whaow, I just love it :)

[Stot]

I'm really sorry for the bad planning on the rear lines. They look to fit OK now, but if I can do anything, do not hesitate to send me a PM.

BTW, your car looks stunning, and the last things you did with the wheel caps, whaow, I just love it :)

It wasn't your fault Sylvain, I measured wrong. :o

I would say that banjos at the back with a 90 degree on them would probably be best for any you do with MX5 calipers in the future though to avoid the possible issue of them rubbing on the seat back. http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

Thanks for the comments on the car, I'm trying to make the little things make the biggest difference to the build. :D

Cheers
Stot

[voucht]

Thank you Stots

I would say that banjos at the back with a 90 degree on them would probably be best for any you do with MX5 callipers in the future though to avoid the possible issue of them rubbing on the seat back.

I totally agree with you on that point when I see the picture of your rear brake lines. I was not expecting the callipers to be front mounted (but rather top or rear mounted) and that close to the back seat assembly.

I usually say (as banjos are more expensive, involve more parts, and are a pain to bleed) that "banjos should be avoided except when there is not enough room to fit tubular fittings". It actually looks like with this set-up, we are very close to this exception where banjos are needed.

A 90° banjo will give the same angle as a straight tubular fitting, but a 45° or even a 60° banjo should do the job.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/9475734359_3a7f70913c.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/99498333@N06/9475734359/)
MX5BrakeLinesBanjo45° (http://www.flickr.com/photos/99498333@N06/9475734359/) par Voucht71 (http://www.flickr.com/people/99498333@N06/), sur Flickr

Hopefully your experience will serve future builders ;)

Thanks.

[twinturbo]

Can't the hubs be swapped left to right to put the calipers at the back?

TT

[Stot]

Can't the hubs be swapped left to right to put the calipers at the back?

TT

This was an Idea I looked at but top bones would need to be redesigned as the upper and lower mounts on the uprights are offset, not centrally aligned.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vRS3QuvA3-M/USkjnOQ-uXI/AAAAAAAAGk0/-fxCbuzm2qI/w640/DoneUprights1.jpg
(calipers are on the wrong uprights in that pic.)

You would need to change the position of the upper shock mount too. I already had the chassis and bones fully welded at that point so carried on as normal.

Flipping them would help with the handbrake cable rubbing issue too and If I were building again I probably would try that option. I'm happy that my current configuration is acceptable if not the ideal.

Cheers
Stot

[Short]

Stot,

You are a true inspiration to us all. I watch your build thread with interest, and has given me a few ideas, and inspiration.

keep up the great work.