View Full Version : MX5 Donor - How much can I use?
JasonL
24th August 2014, 09:49 PM
Hi Everyone,
This is my first post. I picked up a 1995 MX5 1.8 last month that someone started to strip a few years ago. Only 65k on the clock and I am trying to maximise how much I reuse from it. Planning on using everything I can, including the wiring loom, etc.
I was wondering if anyone has any advice?
One specific thing I was wondering is if anyone has tried using the fuel pump and sender assembly because I presume it would require a custom tank?!?
J
fangorn
25th August 2014, 06:23 AM
Hi Jason,:) I totally stripped my MX5 and will be using the: engine, gearbox, diff,rear axles, front & rear uprights, wiring loom and computer, steering column, brakes including the master cyl., driveshaft(shortened)and handbrake lever & cables. The rest will be scratch built to the Haynes plans. I tacked together my frame and it is being fully welded by an experienced welding friend. I have made my suspension frames and had them TIG welded( I need to get them crack tested as per New Zealand transport rules) Can,t wait to get my frame back. Our winter is coming to an end !! so the weather should be warming up. Good luck as you start your LOOOOOONG journey. Cheers, Ken.:) :) Hi Everyone,
This is my first post. I picked up a 1995 MX5 1.8 last month that someone started to strip a few years ago. Only 65k on the clock and I am trying to maximise how much I reuse from it. Planning on using everything I can, including the wiring loom, etc.
I was wondering if anyone has any advice?
One specific thing I was wondering is if anyone has tried using the fuel pump and sender assembly because I presume it would require a custom tank?!?
J
PorkChop
25th August 2014, 09:33 AM
Welcome :)
Make sure you undo the hub nuts if you're going to refurb the driveshafts/uprights while they're still fitted on the car; it's a lot easier! The front nuts are an unusual size (29mm), the rear nuts can be 29 or 32mm depending on the car.
The whole rear section can be a PITA; the driveshafts can get properly stuck in the uprights and the lower wishbone to upright bolt is exposed, so removal a lot of the time can be problematic.
You'll most likely have an issue with the steering rack fouling the front lower wishbones at full lock and droop; there's lots of examples over in the States where the Miata has been a popular donor car for a lot longer than over here. There are several ways to fix it, which are covered on the forum.
You'll need a custom tank anyway, you can use the MX-5 sender and pump, you might need to modify it. Someone might even have a MX-5 tank for sale ;)
Where in the world are you?
JasonL
25th August 2014, 10:03 AM
Thanks for the input guys!
I'm in the UK. I'll make sure I plan for plenty of time for the rear end and I'll look at the steering rack issue. This is a long term project, so I'm not in a hurry.
Sorry, I wasn't suggesting that I thought I could use the donor's tank. The pump and sender assembly both sit in the tank, so the two options in the Haynes manual wouldn't work.
Any ideas where I can pick up an MX5-ready tank?
I'm thinking of using Phil's TMXR chassis and wishbones because I'm not confident enough in my welding skills and I don't have any friends who are. :(
J
PorkChop
25th August 2014, 10:15 AM
If you get a TMXR chassis and bones then I doubt you'll have an issue with the uprights; Phil is well aware of the issue and supplies wishbones which have a cranked leading arm to clear the rack for people building a book chassis.
I guessed you were in the UK, but it's still a pretty big place ;)
I have a new and unused MX-5 specific tank for sale :) the sender/pump assembly will need modifying, but I think that's covered on the forum. Failing that, there are a number of people who will make a tank to your requirements, for example K4KEV on here did/does tanks (the tank I have for sale is one of his).
JasonL
25th August 2014, 10:22 AM
Sorry, should've said I'm in Warwick. I'll PM about the tank.
CTWV50
25th August 2014, 11:10 AM
I used the steering column, all wiring and fuse boxes, pedal system and brakes, in tank pump and sender, air box and air hoses. I used as much as I could. I tried to even use the seats but gave up in the end.
JasonL
7th September 2014, 10:28 AM
I'm looking at load levellers as I'm going to take the engine and gearbox out with all peripherals attached.
Does anyone know how much the lump will weigh?
I'm looking at a load leveller with a 500kg capacity.
Is that enough?
Stot
7th September 2014, 10:42 AM
1.6 would be ~130kg, 1.8 ~165kg.
I put mine in whole but just used a heave chain as a load leveler. Looped the chain through the hoist eyes on the engine and over the engine crane hook then put an M12 bolt through the chain so that when lifted the engine was at the angle I wanted.
Took a couple of tries moving the bolt to different chain links but it was easy enough.
Davidbolam
7th September 2014, 10:46 AM
1.6 would be ~130kg, 1.8 ~165kg.
I put mine in whole but just used a heave chain as a load leveler. Looped the chain through the hoist eyes on the engine and over the engine crane hook then put an M12 bolt through the chain so that when lifted the engine was at the angle I wanted.
Took a couple of tries moving the bolt to different chain links but it was easy enough.
I just used the old seatbelt and tied a trusty granny knot in it. The length of the gearbox meant that I could easily move it to the correct angle
David
CTWV50
7th September 2014, 10:57 AM
I used an old winch attached to a 2x6" beam in the garage and tied and gaffer taped a steal rope to the two lifting points on the engine. I just slide the rope one way or the other to adjust the position. A load leveller would of helped but I was being tight at the time.
I weighed the engine and gearbox on bathroom scales before putting it in. The Mazda 1.6 engine and gearbox with shortened loom, ecu, manifolds and oil but not gear oil weighed 177.7kg.
JasonL
7th September 2014, 11:08 AM
Thanks. Where's a good place to get the chain? I've found that it's not much cheaper than a leveller, but I'm sure I'm not looking in the right places!
Stot
7th September 2014, 12:21 PM
I happened to have chain for lifting my lathe.
Its probably only 6-8mm thick steel on the links and I can only just get an M12 bolt in between the links. A cheap motorbike locking chain would do or they sell lose chain in B&Q or something like this from Screwfix (http://www.screwfix.com/p/heavy-duty-welded-chain-8mm-x-2m/60333#) is only £14 and 2m is plenty.
Cheers
Stot
JasonL
7th September 2014, 04:38 PM
Thanks for the input everyone.
JasonL
1st November 2014, 09:11 AM
Welcome :)
Make sure you undo the hub nuts if you're going to refurb the driveshafts/uprights while they're still fitted on the car; it's a lot easier! The front nuts are an unusual size (29mm), the rear nuts can be 29 or 32mm depending on the car.
The whole rear section can be a PITA; the driveshafts can get properly stuck in the uprights and the lower wishbone to upright bolt is exposed, so removal a lot of the time can be problematic.
You'll most likely have an issue with the steering rack fouling the front lower wishbones at full lock and droop; there's lots of examples over in the States where the Miata has been a popular donor car for a lot longer than over here. There are several ways to fix it, which are covered on the forum.
You'll need a custom tank anyway, you can use the MX-5 sender and pump, you might need to modify it. Someone might even have a MX-5 tank for sale ;)
Where in the world are you?
PorkChop,
How did you get the bolt out in the end? My donor has only done 65k, so thought it would be easy, but it's a real bitch. It's basically swimming in WD40, trying to turn it to loosen the damn thing (limited success) and I've even tried a sledge, but that's just damaging the end of the bolt.
Any suggestions welcome.
J
Stot
1st November 2014, 09:26 AM
PorkChop,
How did you get the bolt out in the end? My donor has only done 65k, so thought it would be easy, but it's a real bitch. It's basically swimming in WD40, trying to turn it to loosen the damn thing (limited success) and I've even tried a sledge, but that's just damaging the end of the bolt.
Any suggestions welcome.
J
I cut mine off carefully with an angle grinder then pushed the bolt out on a 12 ton press to break the friction then hammered it out with a drift.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Mhf-DeCBInY/USU3HS02yWI/AAAAAAAAGk0/jOGchHJMw3w/w624-h374-no/siezedbolt3.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-98zY4DiqZXo/USU3Iby6mVI/AAAAAAAAGk0/4D1LnQ1VoTE/w624-h374-no/siezedbolt4.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QNkKT_viq9Y/USU3JQwmkSI/AAAAAAAAGk0/6a6D9qbaI9M/w624-h374-no/siezedbolt5.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G89qyGXjARI/USU3JRphVTI/AAAAAAAAGk0/iYVWXy7ZWHQ/w624-h374-no/siezedbolt6.jpg
Cheers
Stot
CTWV50
1st November 2014, 10:01 AM
PorkChop,
How did you get the bolt out in the end? My donor has only done 65k, so thought it would be easy, but it's a real bitch. It's basically swimming in WD40, trying to turn it to loosen the damn thing (limited success) and I've even tried a sledge, but that's just damaging the end of the bolt.
Any suggestions welcome.
J
I bought a good one off eBay! And cut the rest of the hub off driveshaft carefully.
JasonL
2nd November 2014, 08:03 AM
Thanks Guys.
I was about to start cutting, but decided to try shock and unlock from Halfords and work it loose with a tyre iron (ironically the right size). Used a piece of the exhaust pipe for leverage and it did the trick, probably because the donor hadn't done that many miles.
Thanks again.
J
JasonL
10th November 2014, 07:51 AM
Took the VIN plate under the bonnet out and scraped the sticker off the driver's side door well.
Are there any other hidden ones?
Stot
10th November 2014, 08:34 AM
I cut the actual vin number out of the chassis too.
Cheers
Stot
JasonL
10th November 2014, 07:32 PM
I cut the actual vin number out of the chassis too.
Cheers
Stot
Was thinking of just filing it off. Is that too risky? Is it only stamped in the one place (bulkhead)?
Thanks.
J
Stot
10th November 2014, 09:43 PM
Was thinking of just filing it off. Is that too risky? Is it only stamped in the one place (bulkhead)?
Thanks.
J
It was more to prove I scrapped the car to the DVLA. Sent it off with my paperwork.
Cheers
Stot
JasonL
6th December 2014, 02:17 PM
Can anyone recommend a scrap dealer who will take the carcass away for free?
I'm in Warwick.
vmax1974
6th December 2014, 05:31 PM
I just persuaded the local pikeys to take it just gave them a letter confirming they never stole it had to help them get it on the wagon but they took it although am not sure the horse was impressed should have filmed it they positioned the cart on the drive put the horse on the garden to cut the grass then about 15lads turned up and just picked the whole thing up and there it was gone
have a word and see
JasonL
6th December 2014, 05:38 PM
That' fantastic! I might do it just to be able to tell the story.:D
Thanks.
J
vmax1974
6th December 2014, 05:42 PM
Lol yeah we still living in the stone age here lol
World's Worst Mechanic
1st February 2015, 10:35 PM
Can anyone recommend a scrap dealer who will take the carcass away for free?
I'm in Warwick.
Did you find someone? I'm a few weeks behind you and just down the road in Leam
JasonL
2nd February 2015, 07:52 PM
Did you find someone? I'm a few weeks behind you and just down the road in Leam
Yep. http://midlandsmetalrecycling.com - they were going to cut it up, but suggested we could load it up with a little muscle. I didn't fancy the mess, so we used my engine crane and three of us to load it onto their flatbed.
Price was right (free) and they were good, so I'd recommend them.
What donor are you using?
Are you welding it up yourself?
If you're like me and don't have the skills or want to speed up your build, Phil at Talon is great.
World's Worst Mechanic
3rd February 2015, 12:43 AM
Yep. http://midlandsmetalrecycling.com - they were going to cut it up, but suggested we could load it up with a little muscle. I didn't fancy the mess, so we used my engine crane and three of us to load it onto their flatbed.
Price was right (free) and they were good, so I'd recommend them.
What donor are you using?
Are you welding it up yourself?
If you're like me and don't have the skills or want to speed up your build, Phil at Talon is great.
Thanks for that. Sounds good.
Using an BMW e36 328i as I initially wanted to do a gkd and this engine has a lot of bang for your buck. Thought I'd do a Haynes as it'd be a couple of grand up front for gkd kit which would be noticed. The money acrues faster than I can work to spend it this way.
Not sure about the welding. I fancy the challenge but I'm not sure I'll be saying that before long! I will be buying in the bones or have them fabbed as that looks a pain.
Once I have the donor stripped and out the way I will decide. Are you welding the chassis?
JasonL
3rd February 2015, 06:41 PM
Thanks for that. Sounds good.
Using an BMW e36 328i as I initially wanted to do a gkd and this engine has a lot of bang for your buck. Thought I'd do a Haynes as it'd be a couple of grand up front for gkd kit which would be noticed. The money acrues faster than I can work to spend it this way.
Not sure about the welding. I fancy the challenge but I'm not sure I'll be saying that before long! I will be buying in the bones or have them fabbed as that looks a pain.
Once I have the donor stripped and out the way I will decide. Are you welding the chassis?
No. I bought a fully welded chassis from Phil (http://www.talonmotorfabrication.co.uk) - he did a Christmas special, so couldn't resist.
I'm using an MX5 donor and he's tweaked the standard chassis for it. I figure with the weight saving it should be plenty for me. If not, there are a lot of turbo kits to boost the power to levels that are high enough for me to kill myself.
He does a standard chassis too and will probably tweak it if you ask nicely. You should speak to him about it before you decide.
World's Worst Mechanic
3rd February 2015, 10:34 PM
No. I bought a fully welded chassis from PhMaurl]http://www.talonmotorfabrication.co.uk[/url]) - he did a Christmas special, so couldn't resist.
I'm using an MX5 donor and he's tweaked the standard chassis for it. I figure with the weight saving it should be plenty for me. If not, there are a lot of turbo kits to boost the power to levels that are high enough for me to kill myself.
He does a standard chassis too and will probably tweak it if you ask nicely. You should speak to him about it before you decide.
Good point. Gather data first. I'm not even sure that the m52 lump fits without chassis mods. Some build diaries mention this so I'll get busy with the steel rule first.
MX5 would have been a better choice on reflection for a first build as it's the road most travelled at the moment
I bought the donor thinking I'd buy a GKD kit. Some of the MX5 mods look pretty impressive. I am, however, dreaming of the day I fire a big BMW lump.
Let's hope we both find the motivation and money to finish the job!
CTWV50
5th February 2015, 12:09 PM
Anybody have any of these going spare? just need a couple as I have some very rusty ones. http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/brake-clutch-hose-clip-models-p-3434.html
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