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SeriesLandy
14th August 2009, 07:27 PM
Iv'e just reamed the uprights with the reamer from axminster tools however I was wondering how deep it should go.
At the moment there are about 2-3 turns past the top of the nylock, should that be ok for iva ect?
Cheers

Jeze2903
14th August 2009, 07:43 PM
If you look at the ball joints you should see 1-2mm of straight after the taper. I reamed the hole to have this straight section just showing, with the balljoint pushed into the hole, not tightened.
I read somewhere this is the correct position, and it all seems to fit ok.
Hopefully I've got it right!!

AshG
15th August 2009, 10:04 AM
remember you have to bolt your wingstays on to top of that nyloc so you need the threads sticking out quite a bit more

RAYLEE29
15th August 2009, 11:01 AM
Hmm didnt realise that was where the wing stays fitted lucky I still have the reamer, and now seems im gonna need two more nuts too:eek:

SeriesLandy
15th August 2009, 08:38 PM
remember you have to bolt your wingstays on to top of that nyloc so you need the threads sticking out quite a bit more

Cheers ash, however i'm having to do it by hand as the reamer is 19mm diameter and won't fit in my 13mm chuck (I don't have a lathe).

georgenewman1
16th August 2009, 03:13 PM
could anyone tell me the spec of the reamer needed to do this job, someone said they bought one from the axminster catalogue, which on is it please, many thanks george

Matthew
16th August 2009, 03:24 PM
It's the 19mm one from this page - http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Handy-Reamer-23107.htm

Matt

georgenewman1
16th August 2009, 03:44 PM
thanx, just ordered, this sites amazing, wish i knew about it from the start:)

squbti
16th August 2009, 07:39 PM
hi all,i´ve just ordered one of thoese 19mm reamers too hope it goes well. did you all do this job by hand or should i use a drill?
thanks
Samy

HandyAndy
16th August 2009, 07:52 PM
took me about 15 minutes for eachside by hand, just keep checking that you don,t go too far,
whilst turning the reamer just keep downwards pressure on it so that it is actually cutting. ;) :)

andy:)

squbti
16th August 2009, 08:03 PM
hey andy, thanks for the tip . sounds like an easy job , did you use any cutting oil or something like that? for the mushrooms i´m planing to use stinless steel do you think the reamer is up for the job considering that its a harded metal?
thanks
Samy

HandyAndy
16th August 2009, 08:35 PM
i used a few drops of 3in1 oil whilst cutting, not alot but enough to just "help" the reamer.
as for stainless steel, i honestly don,t know, sorry.

cheers
andy

squbti
16th August 2009, 09:05 PM
hmmm you got me thinking there andy , maybe i shouldnt use stainless then i know from working with stainless that its harder to drill & cut so i dont want to risk braking the reamer & i was also thinking rust building up between the two metals. so what did others use for the mushrooms?
thanks
Samy

HandyAndy
16th August 2009, 09:10 PM
i was lucky with finding my mushrooms, £5 for the pair :D off centered hole too.

they look like they are made from high grade steel .

andy

GraemeWebb
25th February 2010, 09:51 AM
took me about 15 minutes for eachside by hand, just keep checking that you don,t go too far,
whilst turning the reamer just keep downwards pressure on it so that it is actually cutting. ;) :)

andy:)

Can anyone tell me what taper the ball joint is? Because I am using a BMW upright I will have to have a part made due to lack of me having access to milling machines etc. May as well get who ever makes the part put the taper in as well.

Tilly819
25th February 2010, 10:23 AM
hi there,. i made mine from stainless cut a treat in the milling machine with some rochol cutting compound nice slow spindle speed

did the bottom of the uprights in the same way worked beutifully

used the handy reamer from axminster shortened it so i could get it in on the Z axis and stuck it in a 5 - 20mm chuck as it wont fit in a standard 13mm chuck
tilly