PDA

View Full Version : Bending SS1?


james3004
18th February 2010, 07:38 PM
How hove you bent ss1?

I did think about putting the curved CP on and bending it round that tacking it as i went but not sure that wil work?

Tatey
18th February 2010, 07:47 PM
I'll be getting onto this once I get some more co2 for my mig. So this thread should be useful for me.

What im planning on doing is tacking the curved CP into place, then tacking the bottom of ss1 to where it needs to go and then bend it to the top of the chassis rail and tack it into position there, it should follow the curve of the CP.

Bonzo
18th February 2010, 07:49 PM
Tis only a bit of light gauge, strip steel & not too difficult to pre-bend over your knee ;)

If you have delicate knees or a super model :D

Place a couple of blocks of wood on the floor, leaving a decent gap between them & strike with the round end of a hammer to form the rough profile
It might sound obvious but make sure that you gently work from one end to the other & don't just twat it in the middle !! :D

Best to under-bend it a little & tack it as you pull it around the curve ;)

SeriesLandy
18th February 2010, 07:54 PM
I think I tacked it on at the top, then bent it down, tacked at the bottom and put the cp in after trimming to fit. It was a long time ago I'm 99% sure that's how I did it.
If your having a fibreglass rear you don't need ss1 or the cp along with the curved rails.

Talonmotorsport
18th February 2010, 08:02 PM
variation on a theme a cheap DIY tube bender

http://www.pro-tools.com/200k.htm

Tatey
18th February 2010, 08:07 PM
Talon i think you may be thinking of RP1 and RP2 (they are the 2 ali rear tub 19 diameter tube pieces). SS1 is the 16swg flat strip which is used purely as an aesthetics piece.

HandyAndy
18th February 2010, 09:38 PM
if you have a bag of compost/grow bag etc you can bend it over one of them, its just a very slight curve, then tack it into position.
(tack the steel onto the chassis, not the compost lol)

cheers
andy

Talonmotorsport
18th February 2010, 09:38 PM
variation on a theme a cheap DIY tube bender

http://www.pro-tools.com/200k.htm


yes I know I have made 1 or 2 chassis in the past 5 months. I just thought it might help some one out.

james3004
19th February 2010, 02:15 PM
PMSL I can't see the weld taking to the compost, think you might get a bit of pirosity :D

On a slight tangent but are all the CP's fully welded?

james3004
9th May 2010, 09:27 PM
do you fully weld ss1 to cp11 and the rails or just leave it tacked?

Bonzo
9th May 2010, 09:41 PM
I stitch welded mine James

Welded 1/2" missed 1" on the outside, on the inside I put in 1/2" stitches in the midde of the 1" gap.

It will probably warp like hell if fully welded ;)

I used a piece of 1.6mm sheet for mine, mainly because that's what I had here in stock .

AshG
9th May 2010, 10:16 PM
i welded the plate on the side then just tacked it bit by bit worked a treat. think there are some pictures of doing it in my photo bucket somewhere

i boxed mine in both sides as it meant one less bit to edge trim for iva

http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww75/ashgardiner/Chassis%20Build/P1020197.jpg

james3004
10th May 2010, 07:26 PM
what thickness cp11 did you use ash?

monsterob
30th January 2011, 07:13 PM
book says cp11 to be 1mm plate ?

can anyone confirm this cheers

HandyAndy
30th January 2011, 07:21 PM
book says cp11 to be 1mm plate ?

can anyone confirm this cheers

Yes, thats correct, but SS1,s & the CP11,s are not needed when fitting a GRP rear tub.

cheers
andy

monsterob
30th January 2011, 07:46 PM
you sir are a star ! i was planning to cut them in the week shant bother now :)

HandyAndy
30th January 2011, 08:31 PM
you sir are a star ! i was planning to cut them in the week shant bother now :)

No prob, :)

I think you are going to have your hands full this coming week, ;) :cool:

cheers
andy