First day and already questions

[TheArf]

Thanks for the good wishes, steel was delivered this afternoon, while I was waiting looked over some of the drawings for the chassis and here comes the first question for the wise gentlemen of the forum. Looking at the intersection of A1,B2 and D1 is there any reason why A1 could not be made 25mm shorter and B2 made 25mm longer. I am asking this as I think that you may get a stronger weld rather than butting A1 and D1 end to end, I may also be talking a load of twaddle, if this is doable you could also encorporate it on the other juntions such as D1,C and F1, and also the mirror welds on the opposite side.

Arfon H

[flyerncle]

I made the base/top rails in one piece and if you follow the basic build and keep within the frame rail dimensions you will eventually end up with a cracking little sports car that handles very well when sorted.

Good luck.

[dogwood]

A1, B2, D1....?
Cant find reference to them in my book
Unless I'm being dumb...:rolleyes:

[TheArf]

Sorry those are in the announcements section under book ammendments. In the Haynes book they are BR3,5and 11

Arfon

[dogwood]

OK now I understand.....:)

I can see no reason why you can do as you say.
I did loads of mods to my chassis .
As long as you remember to keep the overall positions of the tubes in the same place it'll work out fine
Just remember, if you are using a fibreglass body kit then the joints must be in exact position.
If you are using alloy, then it could be almost any shape you like....:D

[TheArf]

I'm just thinking the welds maybe a bit stronger thats' all

Arfon

[dogwood]

If you are only doing it for stronger welds,
then to be honest I wouldn't bother.

Just follow the book, save your self the agro.
(Talking from experience here :rolleyes: )

The chassis will be plenty strong enough.

[HandyAndy]

I would tend to agree with Dogwood ;)

build as the book suggests, & agree that the only different chassis alterations needed are to do with your choice of Ali or GRP rear tub,

Tho I can understand your reasoning too :)

cheers
andy

[big_wasa]

Ive not started the roadster yet but I am on the last leg of the locost build.

what I can say is little alterations now can leed to big challenges latter.

Some of the smallest things have led to oh s***t moments latter.

[TheArf]

Thanks for the sound advice, oh and I can do without any oh sh1t moments thanks

Arfon H

[HandyAndy]

thought I,d also add........

apart from the alterations to the chassis for the rear tub as already mentioned,

depending on which engine & gearbox you intend to use will determine transmission tunnel layout / pedal box dimensions & whether or not you can place TR5 into position ( ok to use if using a Pinto engine ), if you are using an alternative engine then it,ll be wise to not install TR5, but put some smaller corner braces inbetween TR1 & TR2 braced to TR8.

hope that helps.

cheers
andy

[TheArf]

I'm not sure what engine I will be using yet as there are not many running donors listed in my area, but, as I have said in my very first intro post a few weeks ago, I am very lucky in that we have 5 breakers yards with in a 5 mile radius of home

Arfon