Driver's footwell plate (CP17?)

[David_17]

Anyone got any tips on how to bend the angles on the plate covering the side of the driver's footwell (i think it's cp17, but haven't got the book with me at the moment).

I've managed to bend the angles on all the other plates by holding them in the vice and giving them a little tickle with a hammer :D

Just obviously won't work with the wide plate. I was thinking mabey cut it and weld the angles may be easier.

Also, are the bends just for strength? As i'm sure there's no upright near where the bends in the plate are. :confused:

Anyone got a pic of the plate in position??

Cheers

Dave

[3GE Components]

On CP17 the folds are to give you an extra inch of footspace.

There's no reason why, if there are no interference problems, you couldn't just have a flat plate on the inside of the transmition tunnel.

Kind regards

John

[David_17]

Ah I see, thanks for the quick reply.

What's wrong with just welding a plate on the other side (gearbox side) and just cut the bends off??

[HandyAndy]

As John has said, its only there to give more foot space.

I have done what you suggest David, just welded a plate on the inside of the tranny tunnel but then realised you need to be able to attach the ali that is on the inside of the cockpit side of tranny tunnel, so as not to leave a gap between the 2 plates I have added a Box tube upright where the 2 meet, works a treat.

saves all the bending as you comment on in the first part of your thread/question.

cheers
andy

[David_17]

That's what i was thinking andy. Either adding an extra upright, or bending the aluminium will be alot easier than bending 3mm steel plate :D

[HandyAndy]

choices choices :D

I chose the way I did mine purely by wanting a flat surface on the cockpit side to securely attach the ali tranny tunnel panneling to, at the time, thought it was the easiest way :o ;)

cheers
andy

[David_17]

Certainly sounds like the easiest option. :)

A job for tomorow ;)

[HandyAndy]

this may not be relevant to your question........but.............

If you are already at this stage of the chassis build I,d strongly suggest you make all of CP16 out of 3mm steel ;)

It makes it very strong ( pedal box attaches to it ), & also if you use 1.6mm steel when you come to weld it to the chassis you can bet your bottom dollar it will distort/bellow , this won,t weaken it but as this is also where the steering column support bush is located its better to have a more rigid plate:)

just a little thought for you:D

cheers
andy

[David_17]

Thanks for the advice - I've already got the plates (bought them off john merchant on here) and i'm pretty sure my cp16 is 3mm ;) :D

[HandyAndy]

Thanks for the advice - I've already got the plates (bought them off john merchant on here) and i'm pretty sure my cp16 is 3mm

Sorry, didn,t realise you had the CP plates from John, as he purchased the plates from Saturn, yes CP16 will indeed be 3mm....;) :)

I,ll shut up then :p:D

cheers
andy

[David_17]

No don't shut up :P haha, keep talking. Anymore useful top tips? :D

[HandyAndy]

Anymore useful top tips? :D

when you get to this stage.........take your time when welding/positioning all the parts that make up CP3 & CP4, the picture in the book has lead to a few builders welding the Shock bracket in the wrong place, its not a fault of the book diagram, more a case of not realising the diagram is upside down, so when you turn it over to place onto the chassis you need to ensure that the center line of the bracket is 97mm from the leading forward edge of SB2 ( the diagram if not followed closely will have it too close to SB2 when you turn it over & you,ll not get a nut between the shock bracket & SB2)........;)

top tip for the day :o :D

cheers
andy

[David_17]

I'll keep that in mind cheers :D, was going to do that bit today - but got caught in the thunder storm, got soaked and i couldn't see in my lockup, because i'd left the light at home. :rolleyes: