Anyone know how to keep cut square when hack sawing

[jonte]

Please forgive me if this has been asked many times before, but I'm curious to know that when the square tubeing used for the chassis is cut with a hack saw, how do you ensure a square cut without resorting to files/lenishers/grinders etc. to square it up?

In eager anticipation of a reply confirming that this can be done, I'm taking up weight training to strengthen the forearm muscles of my cutting arm :)

Jonte

PS.... came across cutting guides for use with round tubeing whilst surfing but nothing so far for square stuff.

[Tony]

maybe clamp an oversized piece of angle or 2 to the box section to give you a guide?

but easiest way would be to buy a rage or similar chop saw and do it that way :)

[Enoch]

Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it:D
All the best,
Enoch

[mr henderson]

Years ago I used a Nobex mitre saw with a metal cutting blade. Worked very well, and could do all the non-compound angles too (needed to cut a couple of wooden wedges to do the angles greater than 45 degrees, just rough cut the tube, then add the angle of the wedge to the angle showing on the mitre saw, and clamp the tube so it's against the wedge instead of the bit at the back it normally rests against (the fence).

Bloody accurate, but hard work. Make sure you clamp the whole mitre saw down so you can really put your shoulder into it.

THere's plenty of cheap saws around now that would do the same job, as long as you can get suitable blades (Nobex is the posh one)

http://www.axminster.co.uk/nobex-nobex-champion-mitre-saw-prod22818/

They do much cheaper ones too, but the difficulty will be getting the ferrous blades.

[Bonzo]

Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it:D
All the best,
Enoch

Tip top info there Enoch :)

Just to add, it is a great help if you have the material being cut held level in the vice ( A small spirit level will do nicely )
This will assist greatly to avoid run out.

[Oily]

Also make sure the blade in your hacksaw is tightened properly.

[jonte]

maybe clamp an oversized piece of angle or 2 to the box section to give you a guide?

but easiest way would be to buy a rage or similar chop saw and do it that way :)

Brilliant idea, Tony, thank you. In fact, that's a Heath Robinson version of the cutting guides I referred to; think this might work.....just need a vice now and some suitable clamps!

Rage saw: nice idea, but would like to keep it simple for now and mess about with a couple of offcuts I cadged from a local fabricators last week (keeping the cost down will keep the peace at home for now at least!). :D

Incidentally, cut an arbitrary angle in one of these lengths with my 'never-used before-hack saw' whilst balanced on a coping stone of one of my flower beds last week just to try it out; was surprised at how square I got it and after a quick rub with a file my brother gave me several years ago (again never used before) it fitted quite snugly against the other piece - will see if I can get a photo and you can laugh, sorry, judge for yourself at the standard of fit.

Probably just beginner's luck which is why I'll feel better with some sort of guide.

Thanks again, Tony.

[jonte]

Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it:D
All the best,
Enoch


Appreciate the step-by-step guide Enoch (this si the only way I'll be able to follow any advice given!!!). Thank you. Tempted by the advice of your final sentence but I've got to at least give it a go if only to show my appreciation of everyones valuable help and advice. :)

[jonte]

Years ago I used a Nobex mitre saw with a metal cutting blade. Worked very well, and could do all the non-compound angles too (needed to cut a couple of wooden wedges to do the angles greater than 45 degrees, just rough cut the tube, then add the angle of the wedge to the angle showing on the mitre saw, and clamp the tube so it's against the wedge instead of the bit at the back it normally rests against (the fence).

Bloody accurate, but hard work. Make sure you clamp the whole mitre saw down so you can really put your shoulder into it.

THere's plenty of cheap saws around now that would do the same job, as long as you can get suitable blades (Nobex is the posh one)

http://www.axminster.co.uk/nobex-nobex-champion-mitre-saw-prod22818/


They do much cheaper ones too, but the difficulty will be getting the ferrous blades.

Thanks for that, Mr Henderson, and the helpful link. Will take a look :)

[jonte]

Tip top info there Enoch :)

Just to add, it is a great help if you have the material being cut held level in the vice ( A small spirit level will do nicely )
This will assist greatly to avoid run out.

Hello, Enoch, and thank you. My shopping list is getting longer :) Mind you, this is the sort of tool I can pick up in Poundland so keep it coming !!

[jonte]

Also make sure the blade in your hacksaw is tightened properly.

You mean that they can come off? I'm learning all the time :) Thanks Oily it all helps.

Jonte

[Oily]

You mean that they can come off? I'm learning all the time :) Thanks Oily it all helps.

Jonte

It just helps make straighter cuts.What TPI (teeth per inch) blades are you using at the moment

[jonte]

It just helps make straighter cuts.What TPI (teeth per inch) blades are you using at the moment

Hi Again Oily.

Just been into garage to have a look; it's a Sandiflex blade marked '24 TPI'.
Just noticed that it's also a bi-metallic as recommended by Enoch - what a coincidence!! :)

Jonte

[jonte]

Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it:D
All the best,
Enoch


BTW Enoch - enjoyed your diary - exemplary stuff!!!

Jonte

[Davey]

One of the best bits of advice i was ever given for using a handsaw accurately (this applies to any handsaw) is to line your head up so that your left eye is to the left of the blade and your right eye to the right then watch the cut from both sides. Sounds more difficult than it actually is but it does help enormously to follow the line.

D.

[Oily]

I'd use 18tpi blades on the box section,24 seem a little to fine but that's me ;)

[TheArf]

When I started as an apprentice I was told to stand with legs slightly apart and to be as comfortable as possible and to point my fore finger along the backbone of the hacksaw. The secret is having the job level and your vice at the right hight for yourself. Another little tip is if your left handed us the left hand side of the vice and if your right handed use the right hand side so that when you cut through if your hand shoots forward you dont take the skin off your knuckles, that hurts!!!!!!!!!

[Bonzo]

I'd use 18tpi blades on the box section,24 seem a little to fine but that's me

That's my personal choice of blade ( 18 TPI ) for the general cutting of this type of material :)

All of the angled cuts on my chassis were done with my trusty hacksaw, hard work but a lot less time consuming than constantly changing the cutting angle on the bandsaw.

Mind you, if I took some time to do some mods to the badsaws angle adjustment bolts & worked out a methodical cutting plan, life could have been a lot easier for me :o :o

[jonte]

One of the best bits of advice i was ever given for using a handsaw accurately (this applies to any handsaw) is to line your head up so that your left eye is to the left of the blade and your right eye to the right then watch the cut from both sides. Sounds more difficult than it actually is but it does help enormously to follow the line.

D.

Thanks Davey - feels like I'm actually serving an appenticeship; no need for night school now as I'm obviously in good company :)

[jonte]

I'd use 18tpi blades on the box section,24 seem a little to fine but that's me ;)


Thanks for the reply Oily - I'll keep my eye open for some.

Jonte

[jonte]

When I started as an apprentice I was told to stand with legs slightly apart and to be as comfortable as possible and to point my fore finger along the backbone of the hacksaw. The secret is having the job level and your vice at the right hight for yourself. Another little tip is if your left handed us the left hand side of the vice and if your right handed use the right hand side so that when you cut through if your hand shoots forward you dont take the skin off your knuckles, that hurts!!!!!!!!!

Whenever I've been given advice about anything in the past I find there's always at least one instruction I forget: let's hope it's not the knuckles bit :eek:

Thanks Arf.

Jonte.

[jonte]

That's my personal choice of blade ( 18 TPI ) for the general cutting of this type of material :)

All of the angled cuts on my chassis were done with my trusty hacksaw, hard work but a lot less time consuming than constantly changing the cutting angle on the bandsaw.

Mind you, if I took some time to do some mods to the badsaws angle adjustment bolts & worked out a methodical cutting plan, life could have been a lot easier for me :o :o

Thanks Bonzo.

Looks like 18 TPI is the way to go until that lottery win :)

Jonte

[ACE HIGH]

Enochs advice is bang on,
Also it takes less than 30 seconds to cut through 25x25x1.6 so dont waste you money on any fancy saws,a hacksaw is the best way to go about it.
Nothing wrong with being 1mm over in length and tidying it up.
WARNING pushing hard on a blunt blade will cause it to break and spear off broken bits at your face so safety glasses always with a hacksaw'
Finally you young studs,stop being so soft,30/40 years ago I often cut 3/4.and 1 inch steel with a hacksaw and thought nothing of it.David:)

[shh120m]

another little tip is to place your index finger on the side of the top of the hacksaw when cutting, so you are effectively pointing along the line you are cutting. Its something thats taught when shooting, but its basically something to do with eye hand coordination. Sounds daft but it does work!

[jonte]

Enochs advice is bang on,
Also it takes less than 30 seconds to cut through 25x25x1.6 so dont waste you money on any fancy saws,a hacksaw is the best way to go about it.
Nothing wrong with being 1mm over in length and tidying it up.
WARNING pushing hard on a blunt blade will cause it to break and spear off broken bits at your face so safety glasses always with a hacksaw'
Finally you young studs,stop being so soft,30/40 years ago I often cut 3/4.and 1 inch steel with a hacksaw and thought nothing of it.David:)

Thanks Ace - But remember, you're all made of far better stuff over there - just take a look at the All Blacks !! :D

[jonte]

another little tip is to place your index finger on the side of the top of the hacksaw when cutting, so you are effectively pointing along the line you are cutting. Its something thats taught when shooting, but its basically something to do with eye hand coordination. Sounds daft but it does work!

Thanks for replying, shh120 - this was also suggested by The Arf and I recall seeing this method used by a shipwright on a Discovery programme a couple of years ago - ecept of course he was cutting wood - now there's an idea :)

[shh120m]

sorry mate, i didnt read sll the replies, my bad:confused:

[ACE HIGH]

and the all whites soccer team!!!!:D
And thanks for the tip shh20,which goes to show that we all learn from these forums,never tried the index finger tip re sawing but never to old to learn.David
Plus next time I am up north I have to face a high noon shoot off with slug guns (against targets!) against my new son in law and his Dad for a bottle of Tequila so will try that tip.I am "sort of" the defending champ but only because they still havent leaned to adjust their sites!!David:D

[jonte]

sorry mate, i didnt read sll the replies, my bad:confused:

No probs shh120 - I only remembered because I'm determined to take it all in - gotta build this!!!

[jonte]

and the all whites soccer team!!!!:D
And thanks for the tip shh20,which goes to show that we all learn from these forums,never tried the index finger tip re sawing but never to old to learn.David
Plus next time I am up north I have to face a high noon shoot off with slug guns (against targets!) against my new son in law and his Dad for a bottle of Tequila so will try that tip.I am "sort of" the defending champ but only because they still havent leaned to adjust their sites!!David:D

Of course; how could I possibly have forgotten the All Whites !!!!!

Good luck with the aim :)

Jonte