Rear hub nuts

[eSteve]

Morning all,

I have spent the last few weekends stripping my donor, I am hoping to get the rear suspension sub-frame off today.

I know I should slacken the rear hub nuts whilest the rear sub-frame is still attached to the vehicle in order to get enough purchase.

My questions:

Are both the hub nuts right-hand threads?

If not, I presume one is left-handed and one is right-handed but on which sides are they?

Thanks,

PS I'm sure this has been covered before, but I had a search of previous threads but could not find the answer.

[ozzy1]

One is left hand and one is right hand.
Right hand usually green inner.
Left hand usually white inner.

[eSteve]

Ozzy,

thanks for the quick reply. So they are handed.

However, when you say green/white inner what are you actually refering to? The colour of the nyloc material? When I get a good look at them will the colour be apparent?

[ozzy1]

Yes the nyloc plastic.
I think the left hand thread is on the left hand side driveshaft.

[SeriesLandy]

I took mine off by using a windy gun, whilst off the car.

It only took 2 tanks of air per side, apart from the nearside which is the reverse thread ( I was doing it up by mistake).

[eSteve]

Thanks for the answers.

So:

Near-side (passenger's side) - Left-handed thread (i.e. 'reverse') and white nyloc

Off-side (driver's side) - Right-handed thread (i.e. 'normal')and green nyloc

[flyerncle]

Another tip,sometimes there are notches on the left hand one as its not always possible to see the colour of the nyloc.

[shh120m]

whilst we are on the subject, does anyone know the correct torque for the rear hub nuts, i cant remember exactly but i remember it was mega ft

[eSteve]

I've just looked in my Haynes manual:

Rear hub nut

250 - 290 Nm (195 - 214 lbf ft)

That's enormous!

Compared to cylinder head bolts which are about 70 Nm (50 lbf ft)

Ummm... maybe my two foot breaker bar will be a little too short for the job.

PS. Today I had a look around for a 41 mm socket, none at Machine Mart, local tool place or (last resort) Halfords so bought one of eBay, £10-00 and I'll probably only ever use it on this job so a bit expensive. Looking at the torque it's tightened up to I'm defo. going to leave the rear suspension assy. in situ. untill I've slackened off the nuts.

Still made progress though today, got the engine and gear-box out of donor and the whole grubby assembly is now on the garage floor. Donor looking a sorry state.

[shh120m]

ha, my torque wrench doesnt even go that high!

[twinturbo]

ha, my torque wrench doesnt even go that high!

Most don't.

Unless you have rear disk hubs, it's best to leave them alone.

TT

[les g]

hi guys if you are hell bent on getting the torque right.....
most hgv garages or plant depots have a big torque wrench or even a torque multiplyer that will work with a small t/wrench and they would probably lend you one in exchange for a big bag of donuts
cheers les g
PS anybody in the SW need either i have both

[twinturbo]

hi guys if you are hell bent on getting the torque right.....
most hgv garages or plant depots have a big torque wrench or even a torque multiplyer that will work with a small t/wrench and they would probably lend you one in exchange for a big bag of donuts
cheers les g
PS anybody in the SW need either i have both

You have big bags of donuts :) on my way!

TT

[SeriesLandy]

hi guys if you are hell bent on getting the torque right.....
most hgv garages or plant depots have a big torque wrench or even a torque multiplyer that will work with a small t/wrench and they would probably lend you one in exchange for a big bag of donuts
cheers les g
PS anybody in the SW need either i have both

So right I'm sure the lorry the other day had 700Nm stickered on the wheel arch.

[eSteve]

Most don't.

Unless you have rear disk hubs, it's best to leave them alone.

TT

TT,

Leave them alone? I was planning on pressing out the bearings and replacing them, for which (I presume, correct me if I'm wrong) I'd need to remove the hub nuts.

If I wasn't going to replace the bearings, is it possible to remove them from the donor, clean them up sufficiently, fit them to the new hub carrier and fit them on to the roadster without removing the hub nuts?

However, if I can do all this without undoing them (tricky but do-able) and saving the hassale of doing them back-up (trickier, as pointed out), I might fore-go replacing the bearings.

Thing is I'm not to convinced the odeometer reading of ~75,000 mls for a twenty something year old car is correct. I suspect it is actually 175,000 mls! So I would like to replace all wheel bearings.

[twinturbo]

If they are drum hubs then they just unbolt from the arm and pull through.

Disk ones have to have the hub nut undone.

Unless you know there's a problem then leave them alone. I have never had a problem with a rear wheel bearing on any sierra I have had.

TT

[eSteve]

Thanks TT,

my are drums, so not wanting to cause myself unnecessary hassle (what!? I'm building a car!) I'll take your advice and leave well alone.