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Talonmotorsport
14th February 2012, 11:11 PM
If like me you found your self reaching for a big 'Ammer' or grinder with a cutting disk when it came to removing the rear uprights on the MX5 then you might be interested in this link. Not cheap granted but have you tried to find M14 or 9/16 bolts?

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/rear-lower-bolt-p-725.html

chrisponter
15th February 2012, 12:53 AM
Did you cut them out then? Cos I just can't get mine off, and it's not for lack of trying! :mad:

ozzy1
15th February 2012, 01:13 AM
Thats a ludicrous price for one bolt, i would have expected all four for that !!

what about this guy

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-NUTS-BOLTS-HIGH-TENSILE-8-8-lengths-30mm-130mm-/370568877042?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item950425520e

skov
15th February 2012, 08:56 AM
Those bolts are a total %$&$%^ to get out.
I ended up cutting mine off with the grinder, and what's left of the bolts are still stuck in the uprights!
Luckily I had a couple of spare uprights with the bolts already removed :D

ozzy1
15th February 2012, 10:36 AM
what's left of the bolts are still stuck in the uprights!

You need to find a company with a fast hole driller. This will erode away the centre of the bolt,this will then release the pressure on the bolt where it is binding.(not usually very expensive)

Talonmotorsport
16th February 2012, 06:50 PM
If people are using the OE MX5 lower wishbone bolts (only bloody bolts that seem to fit) and the standard wishbone bush tubes at 35mm long what are you using to take up the difference in length? I made these up today to make the job a little neater, the crush tubes are drilled to 14.1mm and are almost an interference fit.

http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/talonmotorsport/16022012259.jpg

http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz50/talonmotorsport/16022012261.jpg

Davidbolam
16th February 2012, 08:40 PM
Are you going to offer the drilled out crush tubes and the spacers for sale? i was looking at a way of taking out some of the play on my lower bolts.

Cheers

David

Talonmotorsport
16th February 2012, 08:59 PM
Are you going to offer the drilled out crush tubes and the spacers for sale? i was looking at a way of taking out some of the play on my lower bolts.

Cheers

David

Is there play between the bolt and the upright which means you need new bolts or do you have play between the crush tubes and the bolts? As for weather I'll sell them it depends if there is demand for them or not.

stuart.collins
16th February 2012, 09:25 PM
Phil, are those ones winging there way to me...;) they look like they will do the job nicely.

Stuart

Talonmotorsport
16th February 2012, 09:49 PM
Phil, are those ones winging there way to me...;) they look like they will do the job nicely.

Stuart

Yes will be added to the box along with every thing else on the list.

Davidbolam
16th February 2012, 10:30 PM
My set up currently uses m12 bolts. I was planning to replace these with the m14 bolts from mx5 nuts but will need some bush inserts that will allow the bolt to pass through. It also looks like the MX5 bolts are a tad too long hence you are using the spacers. The play on my set up is due to using an m12 bold in an m14 hole.

I'm not sure if Nathan from NTS is planning to offer something similar to this?

MarkB
17th February 2012, 08:50 AM
M12 in place of M14 is crap idea much like M12 bolts for coil overs that have 1/2" bore mounting eyes.....:eek:

skov
17th February 2012, 09:38 AM
I'm currently using M12 bolts too...

I've ordered some 14mm OD 1mm wall tube to sleeve the uprights and bring them down to 12mm:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390302914630

If that doesn't work, Talon's solution looks good!

Talonmotorsport
17th February 2012, 11:29 AM
Post some pics up of how you get on with this idea as I suspect that the end of the tube will deform as you try to push it home in to the upright. You may have to cut it over long then trim the excess off and file it flat.

skov
17th February 2012, 11:47 AM
Post some pics up of how you get on with this idea as I suspect that the end of the tube will deform as you try to push it home in to the upright. You may have to cut it over long then trim the excess off and file it flat.

You might have a point there. I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on though.

MarkB
17th February 2012, 11:47 AM
Surely someone with a lathe can turn up a suitable shaft? I have made loads of bike frames over the years and never used the bikes swingarm spindle, I had a shaft machined then it was tapped each end or you could just have a flat machined one end so a spaniard fits on then tap the other so a bolt holds the whole plot together.

Because 12milly bolts in 14milly holes is just bad, no very bad engineering practise!
You will never set the car up with that much play in the rear suspension, it will move all over the place.

Davidbolam
17th February 2012, 02:05 PM
skov,

i was thinking about using the same method as you but using one continuous length tube between the front and back holes in the hub. I was thinking that way you will be able to get the tub all the way through without it crushing. (you can insert it with the bolt inside.)

As far as m12 over m14 surely the car will be half the weight than the mx5.

MarkB
17th February 2012, 04:34 PM
The issue isn't 14mm over 12mm it's the "tit in a bucket" fit that is the problem.

skov
20th February 2012, 09:46 PM
One piece of 14mm OD, 1mm wall, stainless precision tube:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x9cvow9MFuA/T0K977dSKmI/AAAAAAAAINY/TPvfNSRkwR0/s640/S5033242.JPG

mated with one bottom wishbone hole:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kx2JNP_rB7g/T0K9717ub8I/AAAAAAAAINQ/9PsQ3MyMWNg/s640/S5033243.JPG

A couple of gentle taps with a rubber mallet later:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hUX3sbzbUzk/T0K98P1SmFI/AAAAAAAAINU/OPEJhQD2XFc/s640/S5033244.JPG

One snugly fitting bolt:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hB4FUPVhDic/T0K99rfinyI/AAAAAAAAINo/y5uGQ_hKgt8/s640/S5033245.JPG

Job's a good un!

Davidbolam
20th February 2012, 10:14 PM
looks like thats sorted. better go on ebay and buy some of that tube.

David

chrisponter
21st February 2012, 06:59 PM
Those bolts are a total %$&$%^ to get out.
I ended up cutting mine off with the grinder, and what's left of the bolts are still stuck in the uprights!
Luckily I had a couple of spare uprights with the bolts already removed :D

Finally got the bolts out. Had to get the blowtorch on them, and a whacking great breaker bar :D

Just in case anyone else can't get theirs out ;)

Davidbolam
26th February 2012, 11:14 PM
One piece of 14mm OD, 1mm wall, stainless precision tube:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x9cvow9MFuA/T0K977dSKmI/AAAAAAAAINY/TPvfNSRkwR0/s640/S5033242.JPG

mated with one bottom wishbone hole:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-kx2JNP_rB7g/T0K9717ub8I/AAAAAAAAINQ/9PsQ3MyMWNg/s640/S5033243.JPG

A couple of gentle taps with a rubber mallet later:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hUX3sbzbUzk/T0K98P1SmFI/AAAAAAAAINU/OPEJhQD2XFc/s640/S5033244.JPG

One snugly fitting bolt:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hB4FUPVhDic/T0K99rfinyI/AAAAAAAAINo/y5uGQ_hKgt8/s640/S5033245.JPG

Job's a good un!


Managed to get my tube through from ebay and was a perfect fit on my rear uprights as well!! Now have a very sturdy rear end without any wobbles!! thanks for posting your idea skov.

If anyone else if thinking about doing it you need 2 x 80mm lengths to fit the mk1 caliper.