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K4KEV
29th January 2011, 10:51 PM
Just thought I would share my experience and knowledge that I have acquired in the last few months all info has been gleaned from the internet. I first thought about this when I read a thread on here regarding paint inside the suspension bush tubes and the effect it might have like making insertion of the poly bushes more difficult (as they are already very tight) .....so I thought why not electroplate them, whichever metal I used would only be around 15-20 microns thick. After some investigation I chose Nickel as it can be polished to a high lustre like chrome and has very good corrosion resistance, another side effect would naturally make my roadster very individual kinda like.... my trademark.
My first attempts were very hit and miss some came out good but were satin in finish and had to be vigorously polished, them some came out with black sooty deposits, them some peeled. These early experiments in Oct/Nov took me away from my chassis build, but it was something I could not leave alone, I had to stick at it. These early set ups were called Watts Baths and was about 1/2 gallon of electrolyte that consisted of 500g of Nickel sulphate salts (ebay) along with some 5% sulphuric acid to aid electron transfer, Power supply was 12 vdc car battery chargers. After a very frustrating couple of months I nearly gave up and it had a disheartening effect on the car build .
As I said I could not leave alone so more intensive research on tinter, resulting in more chemicals (ebay) this time it was Nickel sulphate, Nickel chloride, Boric Acid and some sacrificial anodes made from very pure Nickel.
So again I try it out and get immediate better results but still unpredictable.
More research and a call to a company called Gateros plating gets me some Nickel Brighteners and maintenance but the final item was to be the most important.....a proper lab bench supply.....Why......simples I had been using a car battery charger (12v) and some crude current limiting devices and this was where I was going wrong.
A chance reading on someones blog mentioned using a AA battery for some simple plating on further investigation I found that commercial electroplaters only use 1.5 to 2v dc and the surface area of the anodes should be more than the surface area to be plated (at this point I thought this is starting to get a bit heavy)......ebay to the rescue and a nice little lab supply sat next to my plating tank....oh I also found that the electrolyte works best around 30-40 celsius so a aquarium tank heater was purchased and a larger tank placed around my plating tank provided a heated water jacket. The last magic ingredient was Sodium Saccharin (yep sweetener) about 10 tablets to 5litres.
Within trying a few test pieces the results were astonishing.....if the piece goes in with a highly polished surface then in comes out exactly the same except Nickel plated......so my original idea to electroplate the w/bone bushes is now a reality and anything else I wish to blingify, don't ask why but this has been a very important experience to me and has given me re-newed vigour to get on with the build so updates coming soon.
Numbers for plating by the way....I found 1.5 - 2vdc and 60 - 100mah per square inch for around 20 - 25mins gives a good plate and no hydrogen or oxygen produced at the electrodes (low and slow being the motto)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01250.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01243.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01246.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01243.jpg

K4KEV
29th January 2011, 10:54 PM
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01237.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01239.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01248.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01241.jpg

ayjay
30th January 2011, 12:25 AM
That looks brilliant will you do my chassis if I can find a big bucket:D

HandyAndy
30th January 2011, 10:04 AM
Wow, very smart indeed :cool:

I,m sure you are now thinking of all the bits n bobs that you will no doubt be plating , rear bones & rear uprights maybe ? :cool:

cheers
andy

K4KEV
30th January 2011, 10:15 AM
Andy .....only plating bush tubes for corrosion protection but will be leaving 3" of the w/bone tube unpainted (for bling factor/trademark) but yes nuts bolts all of the w/bone and shock brackets.....if it can easily be plated it won't escape:D

ajay ...believe me ...if I could!!!!!!!!

Bonzo
30th January 2011, 10:39 AM
Well done, it looks as if you have managed to get that job cracked :) :)

Methinks I gave up on that hobby too soon :o

You have given me a warm fuzzy feeling mate .... Gotta have another crack at that :D

Davey
30th January 2011, 11:02 AM
Brilliant Kev, roughly how much would it cost to set up a similar plating rig? Just a rough ball park figure will do mate.

D.

shh120m
30th January 2011, 11:56 AM
Thats amazing mate, you should offer plating as a service, i for one would be willing to part with hard earned for that.

K4KEV
30th January 2011, 11:59 AM
BPF eh....ok
ebay stuff
32 degree aquairium heater ..£11
used lab supply...£49
10 croc clips....£5

Gateros plating
nickel anodes.....£20
1kg nickel sulphate, 300g nickel chloride, 450g of boric acid small bottle of nickel brightener and maintainence enough for 5l ....approx £25
de ionised water...£3.50
so thats £113.50

sounds like a lot but I now have enough nickel plate to do over 25000 square inches so will be going into a plating frenzy soon....its alive.....ITS ALIVE..:eek:
er sorry getting a bit carried away there:D

deezee
30th January 2011, 12:35 PM
Do you think a PC power supply would provide a suitably stable 12v supply for doing this?

K4KEV
30th January 2011, 01:39 PM
hi Dezee ...yes you probably could, but the difficulty is being able to limit or dial in the right current...I did try many 12v supplies including a pc but they all suffered from the same problems... using the lab supply immediately solved all the volt/ current issues no matter what the surface areas were I simply had to get it anywhere between 1.5 and 2v and somewhere around 500mah as the plating begins the current tends to rise so again being able to control it is paramount.
If you look on Ebay at plating kits all the really good ones have lab supplies or rectifiers (as they are sometimes called). It was only through trial and error that I discovered having the right formula of electrolyte and the right voltage/current is the only way to get consistant, repeatable results before I let loose on some of my roadster parts.

K4KEV
30th January 2011, 01:59 PM
Thats amazing mate, you should offer plating as a service, i for one would be willing to part with hard earned for that.

might yet be tempted Nathan:cool: :cool:

K4KEV
30th January 2011, 08:28 PM
Here are my freshly plated wishbone brackets and shock brackets.....only took the plate up to where the bracket will be welded, will mask the plate off leaving a little to be painted over......it is starting to get a lot easier now like most thing ....if you repeat a process long enough it becomes 2nd nature.....right I'm off to see what I can plate next.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01253.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01254.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01255.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01257.jpg

HandyAndy
30th January 2011, 08:36 PM
might yet be tempted Nathan:cool: :cool:

Kev,

If you decide to do plating for some beer tokens, let me know please ......rushes off to find bits I,d like to be shiney :cool:

cheers
andy

K4KEV
30th January 2011, 08:54 PM
Well like I said to Nathan I may be able to accommodate as it will all help towards my build;)

CTWV50
20th July 2011, 11:45 AM
Does nickel plating affect welding?

K4KEV
20th July 2011, 12:09 PM
Up to now I have not noticed any change in the arc of the mig but then again I have only welded over plated bushes....it is far better to plate over a finished weld for max protection

robo
20th July 2011, 12:13 PM
Does nickel plating affect welding?

It can, i used to get stuff plated locally years ago and things like wishbones would have small holes drilled in them to flush out the acid and then through another process to de embrittle which i think is just to shove it all in an oven. Dont quote me on that because its probably more technical than that.

Bob :rolleyes:

baz-r
20th July 2011, 06:00 PM
Does nickel plating affect welding?

in a nutshell yes it does
you dont realy want to plate until after welding if you can and the weld will blast it off the serface and mix it into your weld making it harder and can make prone to cracking in some cases also makes a mess
try welding a plated nut to plate and then an unplated nut to plate you will see the diffrence also not nice when tiging

MarkB
20th July 2011, 07:06 PM
Not the best of ideas, plating wishbone brackets prior to welding. Ok if they are to bolted on but not ideal welding as baz has just mentioned up there/\

Talonmotorsport
20th July 2011, 07:26 PM
It's good job the plating stops 3-4mm before the bend at the bottom of the bracket then. Have another look at the pics where his finger tip is.

K4KEV
20th July 2011, 07:46 PM
Just like to point out guys that I have not welded nor intend to weld any metal that has already been plated as talon mentioned I stopped the plating short of where I am intending to weld and although the way I worded an earlier post make it sound as if I had with the bush tubes I had not, because I used a detail sander to remove the nickel....we are after all taking about 5-10 microns of nickel a very very thin layer which I have protected with clear lacquer I had read about embrittlement but this was always associated with the acidic electrolytes particularly sulfamic acid but even these were talking about high temps and much thicker plate.